The Perfect Fighting Revolver

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This is a follow up to my previous thread and pictures posted here
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/not-a-thread-for-s-w-purist.820812/

There will be more close up pictures to follow.
I hope this answers the questions from the previous thread.

This revolver started out as a 4inch revolver. I decided to send it off to Throne Arms for a little tender love and care to turn it into The Perfect Fighting Revolver.

My design Mr. Throne's work
Reduce barrel length 4inch to 3inch
Recrown Barrel
Slab side barrel
Replace Cylinder Stop
Action Job reduced from 12pounds to 8pounds
Hammer bobbed
Front night sight :Kensight Front Night Sight 1911 Novak Cut Flat Base .115" Width Steel Black with Green Tritium Dot
Smith & Wesson Factory Grips S&W K, L-Frame Square Butt Checkered Dymondwood

Have received a lot of questions already asking why didn't I have it converted to a round butt frame while I was at it. The square butt fits my hand better -- Hey what can I say I like a big butt :)

 
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Looks nice except for the neutered hammer. And I don’t think those are “original” factory stocks. Definitely not what would have been on that gun from the factory.
 
Similar to what the FBI issued a while back a 3 inch barreled K frame 357. Theirs was blued steel but it's what settled the Miami shoot out with Mike Platt
 
Mr.Revolverguy

I have to say Mr. Throne does some very nice work! I like everything about this gun though as I had posted earlier on the first thread I would prefer a round butt configuration as it fits my smaller size hand more comfortably. Thanks for sharing.
 
Nice revolver!

I had a S&W 66 done up years ago when Pachmyer still did gunsmithing work, it was their Combat Undercover package IIRC, similar concept. Two possible suggestions, chamfer the cylinders (sorry if I missed that), and think about a 1/2 moon cut into the trigger guard (not through it like a Fitz). I thought this was hokey at first but allows for large hands to smoothly get to the trigger and also makes sure the revolver is indexed in your hand correctly.
 
Thank you bannockburn, it was so easy to burn through 100 rounds of ammunition with it. Thats easy for those semi autos but a revolver, thats how much I enjoyed it.
 
Nice shooting , but I kind of thought I was watching Nascar with all that advertisement , mrrevolverguy.com , mrrevolverguy.com .

I like what you did with your revolver overall and it is the way you want it . The only things that I don't like is the bobbed hammer and polished stainless and if I was going to conceal carry it , I would have round butt grips .
 
Nice shooting , but I kind of thought I was watching Nascar with all that advertisement , mrrevolverguy.com , mrrevolverguy.com .


Heheheheheheheh, yeah it was a bunch of videos I spliced together, I thought the same.
 
The purpose being pre opposable thumb devolution??? :scrutiny:
.......or an appreciation of single actions
 
It's a fighting gun, you're not gonna be lining up SA shots with it.

I don't know about the OP, but I've got hunting and range guns covered which are the only times I'd use SA.
 
I hope your crystal ball is as clear as you think it is, and that everything will work out exactly as you envisage.
cheers
 
Here are a few

Before
SWModel65.jpg


DSC00219-2.jpg


DSC00220-2.jpg


DSC00228-2.jpg


After
DSC00230-3.jpg
 
My take. For a fighting revolver, you should set back the barrel closer to the cylinder. This accomplishes two things. It reduces flash at night, and it increases velocity.
Chamfer the cylinder throats to speed reloading. It helps immensely when trying to get a speed loader to line up under pressure.
It's my opinion that you don't want to lighten the hammer spring on a combat revolver. It decreases lock time, and increases the probability of a light primer strike.

Bobbed hammers are fine. You can use the trigger to grasp the hammer with your thumb, should you want to shoot in single action. No problem.

Square butt revolvers fit my hand better as well.

Three inches is, IMHO, the ideal barrel length for a carry/combat revolver.

I really like the way your smith dovetailed in the front sight.

All in all, it's a beautiful job. I would have done a few more things, that you could still do. There are a couple of things I would have done differently, but C'est la vie.

I like it.
 
I really like the look of how the front sight blade is dovetailed into the top rib.

I've removed the hammer spurs of all my working/fighting revolvers and don't see the downside at all...but then I've only shot them out to about 80 yards. My M-66 has the hammer shaved down a bit more than just removing the spur...sort of a "fastback" look...but then it has a frame mounted firing pin which gives more reliable ignition
 
which stocks are you referencing.
From the pictures you posted in your linked thread.

A model 65-1 of that vintage would have most likely left the factory with either standard magna stocks or football cutout target stocks. The stocks on that beauty of yours have the checkering stopping a lot lower on the stock than on standard magnas and they appear to have somewhat flat sides where the standard magna stocks are more rounded. That said, I definitely like the looks of them.
66.jpg
 
I see a couple of nice looking revolvers here, but have to ask a question. What exactly is a "fighting revolver" and how is that different from a average short-barreled/internal or bobbed hammer/ revolver of medium/large caliber? I always just assumed that my Model 640 was for defense while my Model 57 was for hunting.
 
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