Think I don't like S30V steel

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ATS 34 and 154cm are exactly the same steel. ATS 34 being a Japanese steel and 154CM an American steel.

Both are alloyed the same. I have used them both at different times and when
PROPERLY HEAT TREATED they preform well.

I am still a fan of D2. been using it for more than 15 years.
 
It's been said that D2 takes a mediocre edge and holds it forever, so I guess this is just another example of different experiences.
 
It's been said that D2 takes a mediocre edge and holds it forever, so I guess this is just another example of different experiences.


most likely that was a saying that came from someone who either had to clue how to sharpen a knife, or had no clue how to grind a bevel.

Been carrying a D2 fixed blade for 4 years now, no problems in daily use. Sharpens up fine, and holds that edge just fine.
 
I think I read somewhere that metallurgical analysis of INFI said it was most like 5160. Could be wrong.

I like VG10 myself, but a good S30V edge stays for a long time. Very toothy. Also a real pain to sharpen when it does eventually get dull, which, granted, takes a long time.
I will be getting an Ontario Falcon Ranger this week. It's in 5160 (first for me) so this should be interesting. Saw a couple Youtubes on 5160 in general and supposedly it's very very tough which could lend some credence to INFI being based on it. But Busse probably also has the whole tempering thing down to an exact science making the absolute most of it. Some guy said he stropped his S30V steel and easily got it sharp. I truly doubt this. That steel is waaaaaay to hard to be impressed by some leather. You could probably strop that all day long and not do a thing to it.
 
Stropping is about realigning, polishing, and cleaning up an edge, not removing massive amounts of material.
 
D-2 ??
Old School I may be BUT in my 50+plus years in the Tool Room, D-2 has saved my butt far too many times in different applications.
In my knifemaking days, the D-2 stuff performed well but it is a tad more difficult to sharpen.
In reality, the average guy could care less!
 
Big fan of S30V. It holds an edge for a long time. Granted it takes a little more time to put a good egde on it but it is worth the effort.

I use wet stones and then a strop for a wicked egde.
 
Strange knife story department:

On an impulse I decided to try to sharpen the Kershaw S30V blade with my kitchens Henkel steel rod. Just a few minutes with that made the Kershaw sharper than it ever was, but still fails to cut flimsy paper. But the rod worked better than a couple diamond hones and water stones... bizarre story part 1. Bizarre story part 2: the really odd thing is this: stropping the knife after the rod actually make the blade duller! I repeated the whole process again just to be sure but its true. With this blade and edge the stropping takes away from the sharpness. Go figure....
 
the count said:
Once again...just so we are all on the same page. My personal definition of truly sharp is:

1st test: will slice through regular copy paper without any hesitation whatsoever (slow cut). Thin slices right next to each other (like feathering).

2nd test: will slice through flimsy catalog paper (like Cabelas) with no or almost no hesitation.

I only have 4 knives that came sharp enough out of the box (not even stropping) to pass both tests: Fallkniven S1 (the champ), Cold Steel SRK in VG10 San Mai, Cold Steel Pendelton Hunter VG10 and a Boker Ceramic Folder. Keep in mind that the S1 and SRK are big beefy knives so their performance is even more impressive

I have several knives in S30V, Spyderco, Benchmade and a ZT, and all of them were easily able to perform all of the above tasks with ease. I'm not sure what the issues is with your knives, but I've nothing but good things to say about the S30V.

I really don't know how sharp some folks need a blade to be. Slicing paper and shaving hair seems pretty sharp to me. As far as sharpening goes, I would tend to blame the operator, not the steel. It's not an especially easy thing to do. I also really like the 154CM & VG10. Lots of good steels out there.
 
I didn't read the whole thread here but I read enough to be absolutely shocked at the reaction to S30V. I absolutely love that steel. I have an edge on my Kershaw Blur that will slice newsprint all day long and will cut the toughest material and hold an edge. It took me several months to work out how to get an edge on it but once I did the edge is practically magic in how well it holds that edge. I can't imagine a knife being better than this. I really can't.

What do I use? 1000 grit sanding belts. It takes me about 5 seconds to put an edge on if I do manage to make the knife a little dull (usually by cutting paper too much). If I hold it against the belt too long it will ruin the temper I just know. But so far I have avoided that. The thing will shave my arm like a straight razor with hairs popping up like a lawnmower was cutting through with nothing to shield the blade. This knife is fantastically sharp. It's harder than anything I've ever seen without being brittle. I just don't know how it could get any better than this. I have used the knife to pry things although I don't "press" my luck. I've cut things no knife should be asked to cut like a hard plastic spoon and not one of the cheap ones. I'm talking a very strong piece of plastic and this knife sliced it in two and shot one piece across the living room. I'm talking very hard plastic here. That's a pretty tough cut for a knife. I didn't lay the spoon down to cut it either. I held one end with my hand and sliced right through the toughest part. It took a lot of pressure but the edge was still there after the cut.

I didn't want to ruin it so I didn't try cutting metal but I have no doubt it will do it. Opening cans of food would be no problem at all.

I could create a video of how sharp this knife is I guess and I could show how I sharpen it. It will amaze you I'm sure. I've never seen anything like it. I have knives that will get as sharp but keeping them that sharp is another story. It's as sharp as I can get my Buck 110 or my 119 but I don't have to sharpen it once a week to keep it sharp like I do those Bucks. I have to sharpen this knife maybe once every 3 or 4 months. I don't use it a whole lot but I use it on tough cuts. It holds an edge with the best knives I've seen. I've got a bunch of knives that are supposed to be really good and this one tops them all by far.
 
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