To clean or not to clean barrels

[LiveLife]

Good post!

Bore wear is one of many reasons why I decided to cast bullets for .300 BLK and powder coat to shoot at lower velocities instead of reloading commercial jacketed bullets at higher velocities.

Some posted certain brand/color powder coating contains abrasive components and some are better than others but so far no report of "proven/verified" significant loss of accuracy mentioned on various forums from use of coated bullets alone as report of bore wear involved other reloading factors that may have been the cause of actual bore wear - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?254524-Coating-hardness-barrel-wear

As Walkalong mentioned, many are posting improper bore cleaning and use of bore brush may be the biggest source for barrel wear.

 

[ATLDave]

I got onto the "don't clean pistol barrels" regimen a couple of years ago. I'm not planning to change. Clean the chamber. Clean the rails, the extractor, the FP channel, the disco, the trigger, everything else. Just let the barrel be. That's what I do. My pistols remain more accurate than I am.

I don't shoot bare lead, mind you.

 

[Walkalong]

but as Walkalong pointed out, absolute clean or slight fouling residue on barrels may not be much of an issue. I know, bench rest crowd will be chanting a different mantra but for practical purposes, let's keep the shooting application to recreational range practice/plinking and not bench rest match shooting.

While we cleaned between groups, we didn't clean them squeaky clean. A nice causal cleaning to keep fouling at a minimum.

 

[LiveLife]

Pistol barrels with all of my powders (even with dirtier Promo loads) come out readily clean with Hoppes #9 and copper bore brush after 200-500+ round range sessions. May Glock knew something when they packed nylon bore brushes inside the pistol boxes but Glock barrels are surface hardened. I think I can clean the barrels of my pistols with a prolonged soak with Hoppes #9 and passing cleaning patch through (could use nylon brush if needed).

Just Right and PSA carbine barrels are seeing several hundred rounds per range trip. With W231/HP-38 and even "dirtier" Promo loads with thick plated Berry's/RMR bullets, fouling build up inside the barrel is not much and easily cleaned with 2-3 passes with Hoppes #9 and copper bore brush.

I have tried just running Hoppes #9 soaked patch then letting the solvent soak before pushing clean patches through and this has cleaned the barrel enough for me to test loads again when I was pressed for time.

Perhaps I should reserve using copper bore brush in carbine barrels for occasions when I cannot remove the fouling with solvent alone?

 

[Walkalong]

A bronze brush, sparingly, no more than needed.

 

[grampajack]

I would have a difficult time not cleaning my barrels. That said, there's probably not a reason to, except for removing copper from precision barrels. I think the problem is that people go overboard with the brush. You're supposed to do one pass with solvent, one pass with the brush, and then pull dry patches until they come out clean (usually 3-4), followed by a patch with oil. Some people get their brush and scrub the barrel with it.

Another thing I've gotten onto is Otis ripcords. They look like a boresnake, but they don't have any metal, and they're intended to be used much differently. You can actually run them through the barrel while it's still smoking hot, and that will remove 90% of the fouling without any metal brushing or solvents. You can even attach a patch puller onto the end, that way you can pull some solvent through behind it. That will keep what's left from adhering, making it easier to clean when you get home.

Again, though, good lubricants are the key to preventing cleaning wear, both from solvents and metal brushes. Ever since I switched to mil comm I've got decades old crap coming out of the nooks and crannies. The oil not only keeps carbon from sticking, but it actually cleans off carbon that's already stuck. It's pretty impressive.

 

[splattergun]

I've been buying non-chlorine brake cleaner for years.

 

[spitballer]

good lubricants are the key to preventing cleaning wear, both from solvents and metal brushes...

...interesting you should mention this: I found that a little CLP increases the effectiveness of a bronze brush also, and just a couple of forward passes is all I seem to need after a day at the range.

Great thread, good reading, was surprised the subject of electrolysis came up - I'd always associated this process with ocean salvage and barnacle encrusted cannons... who knew?

 

[Jim Watson]

First generation Gun Scrubber was the fastest acting insecticide I ever saw. One squirt and that bug out of reach of a swatter or even a pointed Italian shoe was kaput. Low odor, too.
Later ozone friendly versions are not as deadly.

 

[RussellC]

OK, question. This regards concern of the copper colored metal bore brushes, and proper cleaning of a 16 inch AR barrel. (.223) After a range day, (minimum 100, usually 200-400) rounds I use G96 and even after spraying it down the barrel from both ends, letting it soak a few mins, then pushing the brush through some 10times, the 20th patch is still not white.

Sounds like brush should not go down the barrel that many times, so I am concerned a little. Last range trip, after said procedure it took 24 patches, and there were still coming out with slight black lines.

What to change? Should I use some of the harsher cleaners the OP refers to?

Pistols all clean up fine, couple 9mm and a couple of .45, which Glock nylon brushes are used, clean up fine.

Should I get a nylon brush for the .223? Change cleaners?

????
I am flat amazed with guys getting "white" patches, and only a pass or two with the bore brush. I am all ears, apparently I can use some schooling here.

By the way, these are my loads, powders are BL C2, H335 and Win 748.

Russellc

 

[Jim Watson]

I do not require a perfectly clean barrel. I don't work one over that hard except a target rifle after a long match.

 

[grampajack]

...interesting you should mention this: I found that a little CLP increases the effectiveness of a bronze brush also, and just a couple of forward passes is all I seem to need after a day at the range.

Great thread, good reading, was surprised the subject of electrolysis came up - I'd always associated this process with ocean salvage and barnacle encrusted cannons... who knew?

CLP is some powerful stuff, no doubt about it. Even that original stuff from WWI still does a great job. My only complaint with it is it's extremely toxic by nature. You could theoretically eat an entire tube of mil comm with no ill effects, whereas that would be lethal with most CLPs. I recently got a tiny sample of CLP in a cleaning kit, and the warning label basically said you will die if you eat it, lol. IMO, even casual contact with such stuff is cumulatively dangerous.

They also say that the presence of the solvent makes the oil less effective, and I would have to agree. With those types of lubricants, I end up having to scrape carbon with strong solvent. With the pure synthetic lubes, I mostly just have to wipe it off, with maybe some minor scraping on certain AR parts, but that's another story in and of itself. In all honesty, I could probably clean most of my guns without any solvent.

However, I do think the grip of every M4 and M16 should contain an oiler full of CLP. If a gun goes down due to excessive fouling, especially an M16 based weapon, there's nothing better than CLP.

 

[Walkalong]

Nylon brushes are poor IMO and won't get the job done. Tried it.

Solvents work on brass jags as well as bronze brushes. Just remember that. Over scrubbing isn't needed unless you have a neglected barrel, and even then, soaking is better.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

And Walkalong posted a link to Schueman Barrels article which I remembered reading in past years but filed away in my mind as I did not use chlorinated solvent (brake cleaner) with my firearms at that time - http://www.schuemann.com/Portals/0/D...l_Cleaning.pdf

A reminder that the article is written about type 416 stainless steel. Chemical reactions with standard carbon steel can be different.

Many have used Kroil for cleaning their guns. Kroil, the oil that creeps. A steam locomotive mechanic's best friend. But the fumes are not friendly to your body. Squirt Kroil on hot nuts in an enclosed area, such as a locomotive firebox, and you will feel no pain until the headache hits. :banghead: