To Dillon or Not to Dillon 2

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TackticalZacktical

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To all that replied to my earlier post, thank you so much. I’ve received excellent advice, and I am so glad that I posted here before purchasing anything. To recap, I shoot USPSA and 3 Gun, and I’m looking to load bulk 9mm now and add on .223 in the future.

Per advice from the previous thread, I have decided to purchase the Dillon 750. I will be holding off on the case feeder, and instead be purchasing the DAA mini case feeder and DAA Case Feeder Loader Bowl (Brand new product.) I plan to rinse off my cases to get them reasonably clean (and remove unwanted grit/dirt from range brass), then run them through the press in a separate toolhead with only a LEE universal decapping die. Then I will wet tumble the now primerless brass, dry thoroughly, and begin the loading process.

This is my current shopping list:

Dillon:
Dillon XL750 with pistol dies and extra toolhead
$789.96

Amazon:
Frankford arsenal DS-750 Scale
Guntap stainless tumbler pins
Neiko Stainless Calipers
RCBS Primer Flip Tray
LEE Precision Decapping Die
$88.09

Double Alpha Academy:
DAA Mini Case Feeder
DAA Mini Case Feeder Loader Bowl
$81.85

I’m open to any advice, changes, or suggestions on this purchase and the loading process in general.

Thank you in advance.

Respectfully,

Zack
 
In my experience, you don't need to wet tumble pistol brass with pins. Also, the two step process probably doesn't get you much gain.

I use my rotary tumbler without pins, but with the lemi-shine and dishwashing liquid soap. It gets them just about as clean, and save a whole lot of hassle. In pistols, especially in action shooting, you won't see any accuracy difference between clean or dirty primer pockets. I don't have any comments on rifle brass; but I generally do clean the primer pockets for rifle.
 
Good call on getting the 750.

In my experience, depriming using a separate run through the machine is unnecessary. Get your cases reasonably clean using pins in a detergent bath, just the detergent, or walnut shells plus a little polish (my preferred method). Give 'em a light squirt of One Shot if you like just before resizing.

But running cases through the machine twice will not improve the quality of your reloaded ammo in any measurable way.
 
I quit depriming pre cleaning a few years ago. Saw zero change on any quality or accuracy. Clean with old primers still set, rinse off thoroughly, dry very thoroughly, reload.

Case lube is great. Many will state that one shot is not a good lube but for straight wall pistol which almost doesn't require lube it has worked excellent for me for years. With that said I had a small can last well over 15k rounds. It makes the sizing process much smoother which helps all actions on the press.

If you are primarily working on small pistol primers you will soon want another 4-8 primer pickup tubes. My longer sessions usually get 1500 rounds made and having extra pickup tubes is really needed for high volume sessions. By no means us it needed just yet as you dial your process.

I assume you will have a powder measure in that setup. If you are getting a spare toolshed pick up another powder drop die so the one powder drop can easily be moved to either tool head.
 
Zack,
Excellent choice! I am so glad I made the switch.

Your planned brass cleaning process is how I process and load for the most part. I use a Lee resizing die in a separate tool head to decap but I still use the Dillon decapping die in station one during loading. I do run the brass through twice, but I have the time and air conditioning...

As far as cleaning the brass everyone above is right, clean pistol brass does make it more accurate. I do it because I enjoy the process and don’t have to worry about handling dirty brass.

Extra primer pick up tubes are a must! Once the budget allows get one of those vibratory primer tube loaders from FA.

Also put an extra set of mini case feeder tubes on your list down the road.

if you do wet tumble, car wash soap with wax and one shot case lube will be needed to keep the brass from sticking on the flare/powder drop step.

Good Luck!
 
Forget the RCBS primer tray, get the Dillon. Federal primer packages don't fit on anything but the Dillon.

Get a beam scale FIRST!!!! Electronic scales are great....as long as you have a beam scale to verify them.

Forget the pins, forget the decapping die. Get a vibratory tumbler and use corn cob and Nu-Finish. Clean the brass with the primers in. You're buying a PROGRESSIVE press. Use it as such. There's NO upside to running brass through the machine twice. Knock the dirt off, tumble them in the vibratory and load them. Your time just got cut in half.

Personally I'd bypass the DAA case feeder stuff. It's a lot of money that could go to the Dillon collator. Do what I did before I got my collator. Get some small PVC pipe and some clips. Put the brass in the pipes and use those to fill the case feed tube. Total cost will be under $10. I made 10 tubes. With 9mm they held 23 rounds of brass. The feed tube on the 750 is a bit shorter though. If you want I can get a picture since I still have them laying around here.
 
Like above, good choice on the 750...
  • I went the Dillon flip tray, but get what works for you...
  • buy extra primer tubes...In my opinion it is easier to load 500 primers, as load 100 five times....I have later bought primer fillers...EDIT...the link is large primer, I re-read you are loading 9mm, sorry
  • Buy a spare parts kit...saves a lot of waiting...
  • I like the primer warning system, over powder charge sensor....I watch the powder fill (the Inline lights below help). It is nice to have an audible reminder before running out of primers (also a good reminder to check your powder level in the dispenser...)
  • I bought a riser and a roller handle from Dillon, today I would go Inline...I would definitely go quick change...remember clearance for the case feeder in the future...
  • Check your mounted height and bench clearance...I believe you want the handle at the top of the stroke to be even with your shoulder...ask around...I designed the bench around the height and clearance
  • I did buy a light kit from inline...it helps...
  • Get a caliper...I buy Starrett, but get what works for you...EDIT (sorry, you had these listed)
  • Get some check weights
  • Most of the above is fairly cheap...and most is not required.
  • Get what you need and plan for your future.
  • Boy, it is fun spending someone else’s money :neener:

https://www.dillonprecision.com/primer-pick-up-tube-large-4-pack_8_116_23516.html
https://www.dillonprecision.com/xl-750-spare-parts-kit_8_113_26774.html
https://www.dillonprecision.com/primer-system-early-warning-kit_8_6_23628.html
https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon
 
Last edited:
Just from my experience loading on a 750 without a good case feeder can get old very fast. I did it for 2 weeks before my case feeder arrived.
Between practice and matches you will be loading at least one thousand rounds a month. Makes life so much easier.
 
Last edited:
Pick a lube that works for you...I go Hornady Hot Shot (be careful with rifle brass)...you will see a lot of opinion on type...but it reduces effort and wear...
 
rabid wombat said:
Like above, good choice on the 750...
  • I went the Dillon flip tray, but get what works for you...
  • buy extra primer tubes...In my opinion it is easier to load 500 primers, as load 100 five times....I have later bought primer fillers...EDIT...the link is large primer, I re-read you are loading 9mm, sorry
  • Buy a spare parts kit...saves a lot of waiting...
  • I like the primer warning system, over powder charge sensor....I watch the powder fill (the Inline lights below help). It is nice to have an audible reminder before running out of primers (also a good reminder to check your powder level in the dispenser...)
  • I bought a riser and a roller handle from Dillon, today I would go Inline...I would definitely go quick change...remember clearance for the case feeder in the future...
  • Check your mounted height and bench clearance...I believe you want the handle at the top of the stroke to be even with your shoulder...ask around...I designed the bench around the height and clearance
  • I did buy a light kit from inline...it helps...
  • Get a caliper...I buy Starrett, but get what works for you...EDIT (sorry, you had these listed)
  • Get some check weights
  • Most of the above is fairly cheap...and most is not required.
  • Get what you need and plan for your future.
  • Boy, it is fun spending someone else’s money :neener:

https://www.dillonprecision.com/primer-pick-up-tube-large-4-pack_8_116_23516.html
https://www.dillonprecision.com/xl-750-spare-parts-kit_8_113_26774.html
https://www.dillonprecision.com/primer-system-early-warning-kit_8_6_23628.html
https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/dillon
Click to expand...
Haha! Thanks for the advice. I will definitely be adding some more pickup tubes and possibly the FA Vibra-prime as well. What primer filler do you recommend?
 
TackticalZacktical said:
What method do you use to lube?
Click to expand...

The moderators are watching this answer to ban me for life :rofl:

For pistol, I typically lay out a couple layers of newspaper, a single layer of brass (quantity appropriate to the case feeder), a light spray of Hot Shot, bundle the paper to shake the brass....use the paper as a funnel to load the hopper....repeat

On carbide pistol dies, you are just trying to reduce the friction (different than rifle)...you will feel the difference as compared to dry...this even helps preventing powder spills as the machine operates smoother. Make sure to understand how much so you do not contaminate the powder...timing as much as volume...
 
TackticalZacktical said:
I sure am spending a lot on the name of saving a few cents in ammo!
Click to expand...

you can do quick calculation to determine your payback...compare you retail cost to reloaded cost (machine and components), and determine your breakeven. Harder for 9mm than 45, but you have the idea...

probably faster than you are giving credit for...your labor rate, a different story...
 
To recap, I shoot USPSA and 3 Gun, and I’m looking to load bulk 9mm now and add on .223 in the future.

Per advice from the previous thread,
Click to expand...

Best advice I can give you, if you are into the competition part, is to learn from the people you are trying to beat.

I have found that people in competition shooting are not at all like racecar folks, they will tell you all of the secrets, in and outs.

We are a much more diverse crowd here, thus the variety of vastly different responses.
 
TackticalZacktical said:
That’s what I plan to grab. What method do you use to lube?
Click to expand...

I dump enough 9mm in one of those large plastic coffee cans so I can tip it on a45 degree angle. Spritz the brass. Shake it do again, shake it, spritz again. Then lid on and roll it a few times. Loud noise but quick and painless. Give it a minute or two with lid of and ready to go.
 
Haha! I sure am spending a lot on the name of saving a few cents in ammo!


I don’t think saving money is a consideration at all loading 9mm.

But you have the ability to custom tune your rounds for bullet type and PF to suit you needs.
 
TackticalZacktical said:
What primer filler do you recommend?
Click to expand...
I've tried most of them and was working my way up to the Dillon when I found the DAA PRIMER-PRO collator. Works very well after you get it set up/tuned for the primer of your choice adn a bit less expensive than the Dillon

What method do you use to lube?
Click to expand...
Erief0g said:
Give it a minute or two with lid of and ready to go.
Click to expand...
I lube much the same way...open container instead of coffee jug, usually just two sprays...but an important point is the wait a bit more than a couple of minutes. You need to wait long enough for the carrier to flash off...I usually give it 10 minutes to avoid buildup
 
rabid wombat said:
For pistol, I typically lay out a couple layers of newspaper, a single layer of brass (quantity appropriate to the case feeder), a light spray of Hot Shot, bundle the paper to shake the brass....use the paper as a funnel to load the hopper....repeat
Click to expand...
I know I’d spill them all over the place if I used newspaper - glad this works for you. For me, I use a shallow box, I don’t care what orientation they are in, give them a spritz of one shot, shake, another spritz, and let dry. Then I can dump them in the case feeder. Whatever works! Good luck!
 
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