greyling22
Member
it shot fine in my spikes middy. I ran about 60 rounds through it. printed about 2.5" groups and felt a little underpowered compared to my "starting load" reloads. printed about 3" lower too.
Can you polish the steel case with some Flitz to give it a shine? Would a cloth or steel wool be better? Thanks.Yes, that's after stainless tumbling. The poly coating comes off very easily, and usually leaves a shiny, somewhat gray case. The only thing I do different is to swab the inside with a q-tip after they come out of the tumble so they don't surface rust inside.
I've experimented a little with the cases in terms of rust prevention, and they all essentially have stayed rust free so long as they're stored inside the house (in a humidity controlled environment, that is). Some I've waxed, some I've just wiped after sizing, and some I've re-tumbled after sizing. So long as they're not left with water physically on them afterward, they keep just fine.
Had zero issues with FTL, FTE, etc, without the poly coating.
I've done plenty of shopping, both "real world" and online. Quite frankly, the cheapest brass ammo out there is still an average of ten cents higher per round than comparable steel-cased ammo. The barrel buy offers little to no savings, evdn if one buys the ENTIRE BARREL. In every case I've found, even the "by the barrel" price for 62 gr M855 is right around 30 cents a pop, whereas one can get steel-cased ammo at .20 cents a pop almost any time if one is willing to shop.you can find a gun shop that has brass case ammo in a barrel for about the same price. no, you don't have to buy the whole barrel of ammo.
Can you polish the steel case with some Flitz to give it a shine? Would a cloth or steel wool be better? Thanks.
If you shop around you can find a gun shop that has brass case ammo in a barrel for about the same price. no, you don't have to buy the whole barrel of ammo.
And can you polish the primed rounds with some steel wool?