US. Krag

[boom boom]

I dunno, cracks around the rivets and the thinness of the material give me pause. If the handguard stays on the rifle, then it would probably hold if the wood is kept from drying out. If the guy likes to dismount the action, not so much.

If this wasn't a collectible firearm and handguard, I would be tempted to anchor both ends of the cracks with inlays across the crack as in British No. 1 rear handguard style or bowtie inlays rather than just relying on the clip and epoxy to hold it together. One thing I like is colored panel nails bent into a horseshoe shape--these have epoxy coating, are colored, and the metal ridges on the panel nail hold epoxy very well. I have done a VZ-24 handguard with that approach and done pretty well.

I have used a careful scraping of a relief on the back side of a handguard to put some metal reinforcement in an epoxy matrix in the depression. In general, I dislike the metal clamping bracket style of a lot of handguards as they seem prone to me breakage and cracks

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Here are some pics of the M1 Garand hand guard repair.
The problem with the repairs that most people do are more like a bandaid then a repair. Taking shortcuts really don’t work out that good in the long run.
It only takes a little more time todo it right, and it will last.
The crack in this hand guard ran the whole length. I put fiberglass cloth in three places to reinforce the repair.

 

[AlexanderA]

Unlike the Krag handguards, Garand handguards are quite common. I don't know why someone would do extensive repairs on them (as in the example above) rather than replacing them altogether.

 

[boom boom]

@GunnyUSMC
Notice that you are using a fair amount of fiberglass cloth for thin wood repairs with resin. How does that hold up over time in your experience? I've used the floc but not the cloth.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

@GunnyUSMC
Notice that you are using a fair amount of fiberglass cloth for thin wood repairs with resin. How does that hold up over time in your experience? I've used the floc but not the cloth.

Floc works great to help the epoxy to bind to itself when filling areas, like when glass bedding. But I much prefer fiberglass cloth to reinforce an area. I have found that it holds up very good. I put a Ruger 44 Mag. Deerstalker stock, that was in two pieces, back together over 20 years ago. I had to line the inside of the action area with fiberglass cloth. The guy still hunts with the gun.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Unlike the Krag handguards, Garand handguards are quite common. I don't know why someone would do extensive repairs on them (as in the example above) rather than replacing them altogether.

Sometimes it’s worth it. But I remember people saying the same thing about Krag and 03A3 stocks.

 

[TheFlynn01]

Well I got the fiberglass cloth, and I figure I should do something rather than risking it breaking. That and I have been learning alot on this project and I have been having alot of fun with it. So I will try to clean it up like Gunny did and give it some TLC. I feel it will only help the hand guard in the long run.

 

[TheFlynn01]

alrighty! Here is a update to anyone curious. Got the stuff set and bedded. Need to do some sanding for touch up and stain to hide the color but I think it’s turning out quite well! The hand guard feels strong and the barreled action fits nice and snug against the repair.

Let me know what you all think!

 

[GunnyUSMC]

The repairs look good.
Here’s a tip. When reinforcing the inside of a handguard, you want to cut your channel deep enough so that the fiberglass cloth will still cover the area after you dress it up. This can be a little hard when you have a very thin area to work with.
After the repair has cured for 24 hours, apply a coat of Tru-Oil to seal the area where the fiberglass cloth is.

You don’t know how many people would be afraid to take of a project like this, but you jumped right in and did a very good job.

Now comes the hard part. You need to decide if you wish to go natural or stain. To get a good idea of what the stock will look like with an oil finish without stain, just wipe it down with denatured alcohol. The wet stock will give you a close color.
Once you have it wet with denatured alcohol, you can decide if you want to add some color to it, red, brown, dark or light.
Alcohol base stain will work best, if you decide to stain. You can buy, or make the stain.

 

[TheFlynn01]

Thank you Gunny, I really appriciate all the help with it, I would not have been so confident without all the pictures and info! Taught me alot! As far as a finish, I was thinking of just using BLO That seems like the best option.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Thank you Gunny, I really appriciate all the help with it, I would not have been so confident without all the pictures and info! Taught me alot! As far as a finish, I was thinking of just using BLO That seems like the best option.

You’re welcome.
When you get ready to do the BLO finish, I’ll be around to answer any questions.

 

[TheFlynn01]

Alright so I followed your instructions on that one thread you linked.

here’s what it looks like now let me know what you think. I am not sure if it needs more oil or not. I feel it looks really pretty though.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Did you Bone the stock before you started with the oil?
If not, you can bone it before applying any more oil.

How to tell if your stock needs more oil? First remember that you are not trying to oil soak it.
After the first coat is rubbed in and then allowed to sit for 30 minutes, a dry stock will soak up all the oil from the surface. Be sure to allow it to sit 24 hours before applying the second wet coat. After the second wet coat is applied and allowed to sit for 30 minutes, if the stock soaks up all the oil from the surface, allow it to sit for 48 hours. This will allow for the oil in the stock to cure.
Next will be your polish coats, I like to do two. Remember, just enough oil for a light film, and rub it in very good, then let it sit the 30 minutes, wipe down and let it sit for 24 hours.
Here’s an option for the final polish coat. If you want that older oil finish that has a little build up in the wood grain. Allow it to sit another 24 hours the do the second polish coat. Leave a very thin film of oil on the surface. You will need to allow this film to dry to a sticky feel. This can take from tow to four days. Once it is sticky start to polish it with a clean dry rag. It will be hard to polish at first, but just keep rubbing. It will start to get smooth after some rubbing. Next let it sit for 48 hours before applying a wax top coat.

 

[TheFlynn01]

So I did take the time to bone the stock. I did a polish coat right after and worked that thin film in till my hand got nice and hot! I will keep it up. Give it the second coat and go from there!

on a side note. I got a reproduction strap from what price glory, and it is pretty cool! But I wonder if I should oil it or what not. Never had one before, any info on that?

thanks!