Using TC #13 or Hoppe's 9 plus for Corrosive ammo
- Thread starter Flyboy73
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Snowdog
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I'm sure you were expecting someone to make this comment, but I'm going to say it anyway:
Spend the extra few minutes to clean properly after shooting corrosive ammunition.
I don't know much about the new oils/preservatives on the market these days as I've been using nothing other than Hoppe's 9 and sometimes CLP if it's going to be sitting for a while. However, I can tell you that a good friend of mine blames regular Hoppe's #9 for failing to neutralize the corrosive salts in his 91/30 Nagant after shooting a few boxes of Czech silver tip steel-core FMJs. Of course, he should be blaming himself as Hoppes never claimed that product would neutralize corrosive agents. It pains me to say, but the corrosion was due to his laziness, simple as that. I suppose shifting the blame helped him cope... who knows.
I've never understood the complaints I've heard from others after they've had to swab the barrel with hot soapy water and dry paper towels before a regular cleaning after they've intentionally purchased berdan-primed ammunition to save money. I suppose now you can buy specialty oils to do the job for you... but I'm guessing they'll cost more.
You gotta pay somehow, sometime.
Spend the extra few minutes to clean properly after shooting corrosive ammunition.
I don't know much about the new oils/preservatives on the market these days as I've been using nothing other than Hoppe's 9 and sometimes CLP if it's going to be sitting for a while. However, I can tell you that a good friend of mine blames regular Hoppe's #9 for failing to neutralize the corrosive salts in his 91/30 Nagant after shooting a few boxes of Czech silver tip steel-core FMJs. Of course, he should be blaming himself as Hoppes never claimed that product would neutralize corrosive agents. It pains me to say, but the corrosion was due to his laziness, simple as that. I suppose shifting the blame helped him cope... who knows.
I've never understood the complaints I've heard from others after they've had to swab the barrel with hot soapy water and dry paper towels before a regular cleaning after they've intentionally purchased berdan-primed ammunition to save money. I suppose now you can buy specialty oils to do the job for you... but I'm guessing they'll cost more.
You gotta pay somehow, sometime.
I've used Hoppes
My method is to pour boiling water down the barrel with a funnel, then follow up with a bore brush, then use whatever cleaner I have at the time. I've used Hoppes, Gun Scrubber, Browning Gun Cleaner and Mirachem Gun Degreaser. I've never had a problem but the secret is to clean the gun really well with whatever you are using. I also usually run one last patch down the barrel with a light oil on it since I live about 300 yards from the Pacific Ocean.
My method is to pour boiling water down the barrel with a funnel, then follow up with a bore brush, then use whatever cleaner I have at the time. I've used Hoppes, Gun Scrubber, Browning Gun Cleaner and Mirachem Gun Degreaser. I've never had a problem but the secret is to clean the gun really well with whatever you are using. I also usually run one last patch down the barrel with a light oil on it since I live about 300 yards from the Pacific Ocean.
rugerfreak
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Windex is cheap----give it the Windex swab---then clean as normal
Hoppes did indeed make that claim on their older bottles of No.9 solvent as I have one of them on my bench.
For many years I have used the older bottled Hoppes and the newer No.9 for all my cleaning including guns useing corrosive ammo and have never had a problem with corrosion and that includes both of my Nagants useing the Czech Silvertips which I still have half a case of.
Hot soapy water can be used if you're so inclined but it isn't necessary and strong ammonia is not a good idea on gun metal as it attacks it and should only be used in extreme cases to remove heavy copper fouling from the barrel!
Hoppes No.9 works just fine and will continue to use it.
RON in PA
Member
Hoppe's #9 has always claimed that it takes care of the residue from corrosive ammo as Bluehawk stated.
As far as #9 Plus, I've used it for years with muzzle loaders shooting black powder and always have had no rust problems, works as claimed.
As far as #9 Plus, I've used it for years with muzzle loaders shooting black powder and always have had no rust problems, works as claimed.
Foaming bore cleaner will work to remove the salts, and will help significantly with cleaning up fouling.
It has not been my experience that the foam will completely reduce all the fouling, but it does reduce the amount of work you need to do.
The absolute most vital thing you can do is make sure you put some oil or other metal preservative through the barrel. Even if you don't get the barrel completely clean, this will mitigate any problems you might have otherwise had.
It has not been my experience that the foam will completely reduce all the fouling, but it does reduce the amount of work you need to do.
The absolute most vital thing you can do is make sure you put some oil or other metal preservative through the barrel. Even if you don't get the barrel completely clean, this will mitigate any problems you might have otherwise had.
Dr. Dickie
Member
"and strong ammonia is not a good idea on gun metal as it attacks it and should only be used in extreme cases to remove heavy copper fouling from the barrel!"
I think this is true for moly-chrome barrels, not the mil-surp steel. Well, unless you are talking about REALLY strong (15 N or such) ammonia. Of course, you cannot use ammonia and leave it at that, you have to follow with a normal cleaning.
I use (used- no more corrosive ammo right now) a simple diluted soapy ammonia solution to swab the barrel a couple times when I was finished at the range, follwed with a couple of Hoppes #9 patches. Then a complete cleaning at home. Never had a problem.
Although, a simple pouring of water (hot or soapy or not) down the throat when you are done is about as effective as you can get. The chlorides are soluble whether they are complexed with ammonia or not.
I think this is true for moly-chrome barrels, not the mil-surp steel. Well, unless you are talking about REALLY strong (15 N or such) ammonia. Of course, you cannot use ammonia and leave it at that, you have to follow with a normal cleaning.
I use (used- no more corrosive ammo right now) a simple diluted soapy ammonia solution to swab the barrel a couple times when I was finished at the range, follwed with a couple of Hoppes #9 patches. Then a complete cleaning at home. Never had a problem.
Although, a simple pouring of water (hot or soapy or not) down the throat when you are done is about as effective as you can get. The chlorides are soluble whether they are complexed with ammonia or not.
gaweidert
Member
Use the Hoppe's No.9 Nitro Powder Solvent. Not their newer stuff. The Nitro Powder solvent says in the label that it works with corrosive primer residue. Based upon my experience, that is true.
Red Tornado
Member
There's someplace on the web where some guys tested a bunch of cleaners (it seems like 27, or so) and the water based ones seemed to work fine for the corrosive salts. I'll try to find the study. It wasn't one that I'd trust 100 percent, but the results were consistent between different cleaners.
Another interesting thing was the humidity necessary for the rusting. If your humidity doesn't reach (I think) ~68% (say Arizona) you don't get the rusting. In the swampland, you may have rusting starting tomorrow.
I keep a bottle of Windex in the truck and spray down the bore at the range, pull some patches through, wipe the bolt face, and pull through a boresnake with some Ballistol on it. I've never had any corrosions problems. I know water works as good as Windex, but it's so convenient, and the ammonia hasn't seemed to do any damage.
RT
****
Here's the link, from surplus rifle, of course. http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index.asp
It's long, but filled with fascinating things.
Another interesting thing was the humidity necessary for the rusting. If your humidity doesn't reach (I think) ~68% (say Arizona) you don't get the rusting. In the swampland, you may have rusting starting tomorrow.
I keep a bottle of Windex in the truck and spray down the bore at the range, pull some patches through, wipe the bolt face, and pull through a boresnake with some Ballistol on it. I've never had any corrosions problems. I know water works as good as Windex, but it's so convenient, and the ammonia hasn't seemed to do any damage.
RT
****
Here's the link, from surplus rifle, of course. http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index.asp
It's long, but filled with fascinating things.
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kennedy
Member
I clean with a patch of windex then hoppes 9 and never had a problem with my mosins, enfields, rasheeds, or sks. I also check 3 days later and run some more gun oil up the barrel.
rockstar.esq
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Hoppe's seems to work for me.
TimboKhan
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Hoppes works fine, but hot soapy water also works like a champ. It also has the benefit of being cheap(er) and (more)readily available. However, if you want to use Hoppes, you will be fine.
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