dds51968
Member
I use the tarp method.
It's cheap, simple and effective for me.
My back thanks me
It's cheap, simple and effective for me.
My back thanks me
What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
Lost Sheep
Member
Thanks for the notice. I will edit my post to give credit where credit is due.Seems to be some confusion. The photos on that post are of the catcher designed by toprudder not me. I wish I could take credit for it but I'm not that creative.
Paddy
member
For range brass I use the GF method. It's very effective and it seems to give her a sense of accomplishment. And it's easier on my back.
Gummi Bear
Member
This thread is chock full of fantastic ideas. Some I already incorporate, and lots that I have taken notes on and will use.
Here is some stuff I've learned:
Here is some stuff I've learned:
- Several posters mention using things like nut canisters and jugs that cookies come in with the handy screw on lids. Here is how I remove the labels, and get a clean jug, with no nasty chemicals. Start with filling the jug with hot water from the tap. Let it sit for a few minutes, you can start at one corner, and the labels will peel off pretty easily. This will likely leave behind a bunch of residue. Some WD-40 and a paper towel or two will take care of the residue quickly. Once that is clean, a quick wash with some dish soap, and allow it time to dry, and you have nice clean containers without labels in the way, or a bunch of nasty residue. I have stacks of them in my shed, and I use them for everything from storing hardware to sorting brass.
- I've seen a couple of people share their brass prep and reloading checklist. I stick one of these tags in the baggie or bin that I keep my brass in to keep up with where I'm at. Just my take on the same idea. It is a simple Excel file, I get 8 tags from a 8½x11" piece of paper.
- I've seen a couple of people mention a white bench top. I also like this. I've been using whiteboard as a bench top. I view it as a consumable, and a full 4x8 sheet of it is pretty cheap. My bench is 24x96", so I get 2 tops for $15. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ard-Panel-Board-709106/202090193?N=5yc1vZbqp3 To add to the fun factor, I can write on it with a dry erase marker. Works nice for keeping lots of bullets, or brass labeled if I walk away for a little while, and it wipes right off.
- For those of you who use stainless media. My buddy came up with the idea of using a cheap food dehydrator for a dryer. Plug it into a simple light timer, and about 30 minutes later, your brass is dry, and ready for the next step. http://www.amazon.com/Nesco-FD-37A-...id=1429022052&sr=1-3&keywords=food+dehydrator It's cheap, pretty quick, and made in USA.
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Lost Sheep
Member
What I WANT to invent
Does anyone know where I could get a circuit board like those used in
electronic hearing protectors? I want to put the circuitry into a box so
I could transfer the electronic advantage to muffs I already own.
Circuit goes into the box with a microphone. Box clips to the muffs. Earbuds' wires snake under the muffs' pads.
Lost Sheep
Does anyone know where I could get a circuit board like those used in
electronic hearing protectors? I want to put the circuitry into a box so
I could transfer the electronic advantage to muffs I already own.
Circuit goes into the box with a microphone. Box clips to the muffs. Earbuds' wires snake under the muffs' pads.
Lost Sheep
Nature Boy
Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2015
- Messages
- 8,256
Just started reloading and these are all great, so thanks for all of it!
I have one. Reading glasses are a real PITA for me so I picked up a lighted magnification ring at office depot. Great for close inspection and I tilt it to shine some extra light on the machine when I'm processing. Best thing I've added in my short reloading career to date....but I will be stealing some of these ideas too.
I have one. Reading glasses are a real PITA for me so I picked up a lighted magnification ring at office depot. Great for close inspection and I tilt it to shine some extra light on the machine when I'm processing. Best thing I've added in my short reloading career to date....but I will be stealing some of these ideas too.
After many years of using a battery powered pen light, I got one of these: http://inlinefabrication.com/products/skylighttm-led-lighting-kit-for-the-dillon-550
The perfect solution (for me) to verify a no double charge situation when using powders such as Bullseye.
The perfect solution (for me) to verify a no double charge situation when using powders such as Bullseye.
mmorris
Member
tcoz
Member
Dry tumbling assorted size cases together
If you don't have enough cases of each size to tumble separately but you don't want to combine them and have cases stuck within other cases (eg. 9mm & 45ACP), put the largest cases in the tumbler and start them until they disappear in the media. Then, put in the next smaller size and do the same. You can continue adding different sized cases from largest to smallest until your tumbler is full then let em go. Once they fill with media, the smaller cases can't get stuck in them.
If you don't have enough cases of each size to tumble separately but you don't want to combine them and have cases stuck within other cases (eg. 9mm & 45ACP), put the largest cases in the tumbler and start them until they disappear in the media. Then, put in the next smaller size and do the same. You can continue adding different sized cases from largest to smallest until your tumbler is full then let em go. Once they fill with media, the smaller cases can't get stuck in them.
scythefwd
Member
OK.. here is one
The primer seating pin on the lee classic cast is the exact minimum for allowed primer pocket dimensions. It sticks up just enough to enter the case mouth a little..
It will remove a crimp.
I still need to bevel the edge and play with it some.. but I have successfully tested this with a couple pieces of brass - and it does allow me to seat a primer.
The primer seating pin on the lee classic cast is the exact minimum for allowed primer pocket dimensions. It sticks up just enough to enter the case mouth a little..
It will remove a crimp.
I still need to bevel the edge and play with it some.. but I have successfully tested this with a couple pieces of brass - and it does allow me to seat a primer.
JWH321
Member
OK, this is a VERY little thing. I am always leery of dry firing anything. I have used snap caps, but they are soft aluminum and the rims get messed up after ejecting them just a few times. So I use spent shells but I "make" a shock absorber for the pin with a drop from a hot glue gun. It works like a champ for me and it lets me experiment with a round that exactly matches my reloads. The hot glue cools to be a very pliable yet absorbent primer plug.
(I also paint the part of the casing from the rim up with red epoxy so I don't confuse it with a live round -- but you knew that already)
(I also paint the part of the casing from the rim up with red epoxy so I don't confuse it with a live round -- but you knew that already)
I have to agree with Oughtsix. I've used many case lubes including STP and Mobile 1 both of which are a problem to clean off. Not so with the Lee case lube. It is good enough to allow me to resize 30-06 to .270W and .308 to .243 with never a stuck case.
RainDodger
Member
mmorris has a good idea with the plastic bag closures. I do something even more basic. I take a piece of that blue (easy-off) masking tape and spiral a piece around the powder hopper on my progressive press and my stand-alone powder mills. I just write the latest powder and charge that it's adjusted for on the tape, crossing out the last one. I replace the tape when it gets ugly. Works good for me.
Skinnedknuckles
Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2011
- Messages
- 249
I've been reloading for pistols for a while with a turret press, but now I'm preparing to load for rifle (.223 and .35 Rem). One thing I needed to add to my bench was loading blocks, and being cheap I looked around to see what might work that I already had.
Turns out plastic .45 acp cartridge box liners look like they will work just fine for .35 Remington (and apparently for .308 as well). 9 mm box liners work just fine for .223. I'm sure there are other combinations that would work as well. Since they come in colors, I'm thinking of using different color blocks for cases in different stages of the reloading process, but that may be overkill.
Turns out plastic .45 acp cartridge box liners look like they will work just fine for .35 Remington (and apparently for .308 as well). 9 mm box liners work just fine for .223. I'm sure there are other combinations that would work as well. Since they come in colors, I'm thinking of using different color blocks for cases in different stages of the reloading process, but that may be overkill.
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jell-dog
Member.
I'm not sure if this was posted before, I purchased a 10 LED Sewing Machine Light on E-Bay for $10 delivered.
It has a magnetic base with on/off switch and a bendable goose neck with lamp at the end.
Plugs into any electrical socket
Here is a photo of how I set it up on my Lee Classic Turret press:
I can now easily see into my brass as I reload.
.380auto:
9mm:
38spl:
357mag:
I can see clearly all the way down to the primer hole on .380/9mm/38spl/357mag.
Lamp doesn't interfere with turning the turret, bottom of dies, or ram
Absolutely no reason for me to have no charge/double charge now
JD
It has a magnetic base with on/off switch and a bendable goose neck with lamp at the end.
Plugs into any electrical socket
Here is a photo of how I set it up on my Lee Classic Turret press:
I can now easily see into my brass as I reload.
.380auto:
9mm:
38spl:
357mag:
I can see clearly all the way down to the primer hole on .380/9mm/38spl/357mag.
Lamp doesn't interfere with turning the turret, bottom of dies, or ram
Absolutely no reason for me to have no charge/double charge now
JD
Artofgolf
Member
Blue Thunder
Member
In the last 60 days I completed my new reloading facility in the terrace level of my new Retirement Villa. A couple of weeks ago I found a locker room set of cabinets. It is 6 lockers high and three columns wide for a total of 18 lockers. (They came from a High School Locker Room) I only reload pistol, 38/357, 9mm, 40S&W, 45ACP. My cleaned brass is in gallon ziplock bags, including some new. Lead is in original boxes for the larger calibers and ziplock bags for the 9MM. The primers are in the top 2 lockers of each vertical column. Each vertical column is for one caliber. 38/357 are stored on a wooden shelf. Brass is next 2 down and lead is in the bottom two. The overflow of lead and brass is also stored on a wooden shelf. Using a label maker each of the doors (which can be locked) has what is in each locker. Adding this 18 bay locker has eliminated two wooden shelf assemblies I had on one wall of the facility and it looks more spacious now. Storage, storage and organization has helped me in this new facility compared to my hunt and check storage in my old facility.
I discovered years ago that none of the commercial bottleneck cartridge (those head spacing on their shoulder) spinners set up to measure bullet runout align the cartridge to the indicator the same way the case does in its chamber aligning the bullet to the bore center. And none of them give the same runout numbers for the same round across the various styles.
Such rounds chambered have their shoulder centered on the chamber shoulder. None of the case body forward of the case pressure ring touches the chamber body. There's 001" or more clearance between case body at its shoulder to the chamber at that point. The back end is pressed off the chamber center by the extractor and its pressure ring's against the chamber opposite the extractor.
Very few cases are perfectly round in body dimensions anywhere between pressure ring and shoulder.
Such rounds chambered have their shoulder centered on the chamber shoulder. None of the case body forward of the case pressure ring touches the chamber body. There's 001" or more clearance between case body at its shoulder to the chamber at that point. The back end is pressed off the chamber center by the extractor and its pressure ring's against the chamber opposite the extractor.
Very few cases are perfectly round in body dimensions anywhere between pressure ring and shoulder.
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billybob44
Contributing Member
Brass Storage...
Tall filing cabinets (4 drawer high) bought from Goodwill+other thrift stores for $10-15.00 each. Be sure to get the quality ones with ball bearing rollers on the drawers.
Mount these on Harbor Freight roll around dolly's
I use these for brass storage through it's various stages of process.
Works well for me..Bill..
Tall filing cabinets (4 drawer high) bought from Goodwill+other thrift stores for $10-15.00 each. Be sure to get the quality ones with ball bearing rollers on the drawers.
Mount these on Harbor Freight roll around dolly's
I use these for brass storage through it's various stages of process.
Works well for me..Bill.
.
Skinnedknuckles
Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2011
- Messages
- 249
Primer Seating
I'm just starting to use an RCBS Ammo Master Progressive Press, after several years using Lee Turret Presses. There is a different "feel", as well as different mechanics, between the presses, with the result that I only partially seated several primers in the first batch I loaded. I haven't done that in years, and never so badly as they would have jammed the Lee Turret.
Since the RCBS press sets the primer seating depth with a stop on the bottom plate, I figured that a visual indicator that the plate was fully in the down position would ensure that the primer was fully seated.
I used white fingernail polish to make a line on one of the bars that lines up with the plate, so I can visually see that I seated the primer. The most recent batch was successful.
I'm just starting to use an RCBS Ammo Master Progressive Press, after several years using Lee Turret Presses. There is a different "feel", as well as different mechanics, between the presses, with the result that I only partially seated several primers in the first batch I loaded. I haven't done that in years, and never so badly as they would have jammed the Lee Turret.
Since the RCBS press sets the primer seating depth with a stop on the bottom plate, I figured that a visual indicator that the plate was fully in the down position would ensure that the primer was fully seated.
I used white fingernail polish to make a line on one of the bars that lines up with the plate, so I can visually see that I seated the primer. The most recent batch was successful.
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Dymo Labelers and Storage Drawers
This was mentioned early on but here's a bit more detail:
Dymo LabelWriters: I use the 330 Turbo which you can buy online used for not much money. I prefer using it over an entire sheet of labels, as I like to put the date on each sticker. If you use plastic bags for your ammo, then leave the label attached to it's waxed paper back and staple it on.
http://www.dymo.com/en-US
Inexpensive labels: Don't buy name brand labels from your local officer supply store, but buy them from here via Amazon instead. These are thermal, not ink, so you're spending money on ink cartridges.
http://www.officesmartlabels.com/Dymo-Compatible-Labels-s/384.htm
I list the caliber, bullet type, manufacturer of the bullet, powder charge, OAL, and date I loaded them. I used to list primer manufacturer but got away from that.
I keep my brass in these and label each drawer:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-Small-5-Drawer-Unit-Case-of-4/44785982
Something heavier duty isn't a bad idea...I have a few drawers devoted to 9mm and 45acp because of the weight.
If you use a loader such as a Lee 1000 that uses four feeding tubes and find that they are "flimsy," I use zip ties to hold them together while reloading.
This was mentioned early on but here's a bit more detail:
Dymo LabelWriters: I use the 330 Turbo which you can buy online used for not much money. I prefer using it over an entire sheet of labels, as I like to put the date on each sticker. If you use plastic bags for your ammo, then leave the label attached to it's waxed paper back and staple it on.
http://www.dymo.com/en-US
Inexpensive labels: Don't buy name brand labels from your local officer supply store, but buy them from here via Amazon instead. These are thermal, not ink, so you're spending money on ink cartridges.
http://www.officesmartlabels.com/Dymo-Compatible-Labels-s/384.htm
I list the caliber, bullet type, manufacturer of the bullet, powder charge, OAL, and date I loaded them. I used to list primer manufacturer but got away from that.
I keep my brass in these and label each drawer:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-Small-5-Drawer-Unit-Case-of-4/44785982
Something heavier duty isn't a bad idea...I have a few drawers devoted to 9mm and 45acp because of the weight.
If you use a loader such as a Lee 1000 that uses four feeding tubes and find that they are "flimsy," I use zip ties to hold them together while reloading.
dh1633pm
Contributing Member
CO-AX owners. I made a side link for mine using steel, a drill and a saw. It gives you a little extra room for your fingers. Can go on the left or right side.
Also note holes drilled into the front of the bench to hold the allen wrenches that are needed to adjust the press.
Also note holes drilled into the front of the bench to hold the allen wrenches that are needed to adjust the press.
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deadeye dick
Member
My way of preventing a double charge when load is I use a loading block. decap and prime all 50 rnds, place in block than drop the powder in a case place in block than go to the next and so forth. Occasionally when I weigh a load the case stays in my hand dump in scale pan tap the empty case upsidedown on the bench top to be sure it's empty return to powder drop and put back in block. I find if you only handle the case once you can't double up. I use a Lee turret press. Works for me.
Toprudder
Member
When I load 38spl or 357mag, that is exactly what I do. I also insert the primed but empty cases in the block heads up, so I can inspect the primer seating. I pull each case out, drop powder, and put them in mouth up. No mistaking which have powder and which don't.
