What have you done in the reloading room today

I'm switching up my personal brass.
I want all of my 380 brass.
All of the 9mm nickel

All of the 38spl brass
All of the 357mag nickel

All of the 40cal brass
All of them 10mm nickel

All of the 44spl brass
All of the 44mag nickel.

When I tumble I can this the 38/357 together
The 40cal/10mm together
The 44spl/44mag together.
When it's done tumbling it's a no Brainerd separating the difference calibers.


I like making things in the reloading room as easy and simple as I can.
 
Rainy weekend. I cleaned and reorganized my reloading benches. I cleaned and lubed all presses. I updated my component inventory-powder, primers and bullets-so they are now current. I went through a cabinet where I had been storing various brass and discovered some 45 Colt brass that I didn't know I had and was about to order. (note to self-check to see if I already have it before ordering) :) I have failed to do that so many times.
 
Highland Lofts said:
I'm switching up my personal brass.
I want all of my 380 brass.
All of the 9mm nickel

All of the 38spl brass
All of the 357mag nickel

All of the 40cal brass
All of them 10mm nickel

All of the 44spl brass
All of the 44mag nickel.

When I tumble I can this the 38/357 together
The 40cal/10mm together
The 44spl/44mag together.
When it's done tumbling it's a no Brainerd separating the difference calibers.


I like making things in the reloading room as easy and simple as I can.
Click to expand...
I'd switch your 38 and 357 plan. 38s do well with taper crimps and a lot of 357 do better with roll crimps. Nickel seems to Crack faster so you might get more life that way... I don't shoot 44 but I suspect they would enjoy the same benifit.... the opposing position is you hardly ever shoot magnums so it doesn't matter....
 
Cleaned up my bench set my 380 powder thrower to the charge I want to start at for new bullets ordered. Verified powder thrower for 10mm is where I want it. I put my old 9 mm sizing for and the die that bells the case mouth on my Lyman 8 station seat on the rock chucker I have not reloaded in a while preparing to start again
 
AJC1 said:
I'd switch your 38 and 357 plan. 38s do well with taper crimps and a lot of 357 do better with roll crimps. Nickel seems to Crack faster so you might get more life that way... I don't shoot 44 but I suspect they would enjoy the same benifit.... the opposing position is you hardly ever shoot magnums so it doesn't matter....
Click to expand...
I have enough brass so losing some cases won't be that big of a deal.
I do need to pick up some more nickel 44mag brass.
I'll probably just buy some more new 44mag nickel brass.

I generally Load five hundred pieces of pistol brass at a time and when a few cases fail I just replace them out of the stock piled brass.

I load the magnums on the higher side of the spectrum. I get more split cases on the nickel 357mag then any other caliber.
That might be from one of the revolvers that may have a little larger cylinder bore.
I have over forty revolvers.
 
A little of this and that.

Broke down some 22LR cartridges from the "dud" bin. Lead gets remelted, brass gets scrapped, and powder goes into the garden.

Put away some sized and lubed bullets - yeah, that pile for the Finn M39s. Glad to be finished with it for a few months. I have 200 cartridges loaded for the Finns, that will hold me for a while.

Did some other straightening and cleaning, and put some mox-nix things away.

I have a pile of 223/556 brass to go through; I'll keep what I want, and put the rest in the bucket.
 
Highland Lofts said:
I'm switching up my personal brass.
I want all of my 380 brass.
All of the 9mm nickel

All of the 38spl brass
All of the 357mag nickel

All of the 40cal brass
All of them 10mm nickel

All of the 44spl brass
All of the 44mag nickel.

When I tumble I can this the 38/357 together
The 40cal/10mm together
The 44spl/44mag together.
When it's done tumbling it's a no Brainerd separating the difference calibers.


I like making things in the reloading room as easy and simple as I can.
Click to expand...
This is a great idea. I wanted to do the same thing sorting between BP carts and smokeless (although nickel brass is hard to come by at the moment)
BP residue stains the brass and corrodes it if you don't get it soaking in warm, soapy water right away (mine goes from the chamber into the pot as I'm shooting)
Nickel would make that a much friendlier job.
 
I put the dirty guns back in the safe. They have been setting upstairs, waiting for me to clean them... but that's not going to happen for a while, for various reasons.

Picked up a few things in the cave, put a few things away. I bought a torx key set... so now I'll have the right size... finally.

Scraped the labels off my new Harbor Freight ammo cans. I've always found it interesting... the brand name is Bunker Hill, and all I can think of is Bunker Hill Military Academy, of Taps fame. The small plastic ammo cans hold exactly 400 rounds... 20 boxes... of 5.56mm ammos, with room for a spoon or an extra 20rd magazine. Very nice, very neat.
 
Charlie98 said:
I put the dirty guns back in the safe.
Click to expand...
I have 2 revolvers over there giving me the fisheye. I used them testing loads with CBI powder some months ago, and haven't cleaned them yet.

CBI powder needs testing, as there is very little info out there for it. It's an off-manual powder, not even made for cartridge shooting.
On the upside, it is very clean burning.
 
Captain*kirk said:
This is a great idea. I wanted to do the same thing sorting between BP carts and smokeless (although nickel brass is hard to come by at the moment)
BP residue stains the brass and corrodes it if you don't get it soaking in warm, soapy water right away (mine goes from the chamber into the pot as I'm shooting)
Nickel would make that a much friendlier job.
Click to expand...
Captain
What calibers of nickel brass do you need?
I have 600 extra 38spl cases.
 
Hooda Thunkit said:
I have 2 revolvers over there giving me the fisheye. I used them testing loads with CBI powder some months ago, and haven't cleaned them yet.

CBI powder needs testing, as there is very little info out there for it. It's an off-manual powder, not even made for cartridge shooting.
On the upside, it is very clean burning.
Click to expand...
I would have gone down that powder rabbit hole if I had the experience then that I have now... the price is no longer near as attractive as it once was when I checked....
 
IMG_3810.jpeg I’m working on setting up another section of the bench in a box. Then I’m hoping to load some 9mm and some 357 mag this afternoon. But first, I have to go put a no spill edge on the bathtub, and replace a couple of lightbulbs in the security lights outside… nope, it’s not a honeydew list. It’s just called gotta get it done…
I picked up some power pistol and some bullseye this morning. Might see what I can come up with…
 
Last edited:
Sized, trimmed, primed and loaded the rest of this box of 168 gold dots with AR Comp in .308, also finished off the pound of Powder. After that I loaded up a ladder of 110 Vmaxes and H110 in .300 blackout. Decided which guns to shoot take and got myself mostly ready for a range trip tomorrow.
 
Broke down ten sets of dies (removed lock n load bushings) from the estate I’m moving. These bushings sell for about twelve bucks each. Also set up the 007 press with a 38/357 seater/crimper so I can finally try out some coated bullets(also in the estate “pile”.
 
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