Which AR-Mods for you, why?

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The OP at no point mentioned hunting as an application, so I'm hard pressed to understand why a gun chambered in 6.8 would be worth the additional costs incurred in building a gun in a non-standard cartridge that is not commonly available.
 
Adjustable stocks are good for women and kids to shoot when they are smaller, I also find that having the stock collapsed allows for better storage in or on a vehicle as well as getting it out for use.
The deployment of the stock takes fractions of a second prior to shooting.
 
I subscribe to the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) method of customization. I am no longer in the military so I don't need that kind of costomization.
 
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For a general purpose, KISS type rifle I would want chrome lined barrel/chamber, freefloat of some kind, BAD lever, fixed rear iron sight, quality red dot(eotech or aimpoint) and a two point sling.
 
So far I put on my new S&W M&P OR a Magpul BAD Lever, Magpul MOE hand guard, cheap flip up rear sight and a detachable front, a Hogue grip (As said above it's a great upgrade for $17!), a number of Magpul Pmags, a Berreta BPO Bipod I picked up for $35 and a Magpul ACS stock. The ACS stock puts my eye lined up with the sight right away so there is less adjustment to get ready to fire.

I am also going to add a good optic soon? Either a GRSC Combat Rifle Scope 1-4x or a Burris TAC 30? Later when I save up for it I may get a Burris Eliminator for longer range shooting?

I have to do this for 2 new AR's as my Gal wants everything I get!:what: She rocks!
 
On my stocker Spikes Mid-length, I swapped out the grip for a Hogue and the handguard for a Magpul MOE, that's the only "mods" I can for see for quite some time.

Accessory wise, I added a Magpul sling and may pick up a cheap Primary Arms red dot down the road at some point.
 
OK, which AR mods for me and why (minus brand names)

1. military style M16 BCG with extractor upgrade

I like this because it works for me and has worked for me for a long time. There are several "upgrades" for the BCG; but so far I am waiting to see how those play out in terms of affecting the overall system. In the meantime the original with generous lubrication is doing fine for me.

2. Flattop

I like the flattop because I am going to add optics; but even if I just wanted irons, I prefer the versatility offered by the flattop.

3. 16" barrel 1:8 twist SS hybrid chamber medium profile barrel

I like the extra precision offered by a 1:8 match barrel and the barrel life is suitable for my needs. If I was really training harder at realistic carbine ranges, a cold-hammer forged nitrided or chrome-lined 1:8 or 1:7 barrel would probably be my choice; but for now I like being able to go from hammering targets at close range to shooting <1 MOA groups with the same rifle. 16" is a good compromise on legality, velocity and handiness.

4. Folding rear sights
My main criteria for the rear sight is that is has a same-plane aperture with a big and small aperture. Elevation adjustment is a nice plus; but typically those sights have an aperture that limits their usefulness in low light.

5. Front sight - F-marked FSB or pinned low-pro gas block with fixed rail mounted sight

90% of the time, I'd want the F-marked FSB; but occasionally when you are playing with different optics, it can be nice to have the option to get the front sight out of the picture. The flip side is I don't care for rail mounted front sights; but at the realistic ranges they'd be used, they would work.

5. Free-floated tube at least 10" long, continuous top rail, rails where desired, lighter than standard handguards

6. Stock that is adjustable for length of pull, solid, with a good cheek weld and enough heft to balance out weight in front of the barrel nut.

7. Light that is mounted at 10:30-11:00. 60-200 lumens, LED, lightweight, over 2 hours run time on 2 CR123.

Because I need light to see things and both my hands are busy with a rifle.

8. Optic

An optic is going to be on the rifle. Either magnifiied to help me identify and acquire targets or a red-dot to help me use the rifle quickly and in non-traditional shooting positions where I wouldn't normally be able to use the sights.

9. Stock trigger

Never had a problem with the stock trigger, so I'll keep using it.

10. Grip - Sierra SPR

OK, one brandname. That is because I can't explain why it works for me; but it does. So that is what I use.

11. Sling - two-point quick adjust that can be switched to single-point as required.

12. Muzzle brake - preferably one not obnoxious to other shooters with at least mild flash-hiding ability
 
Your idea of an M4 build sounds good put one together and have fun. I agree that your list would produce a nice carbine.
 
I like to think what I have on any weapon has a purpose. Hey tacticool is a purpose for some!!!
 
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I prefer a sling to a bipod for these types of rifles. Lighter, less bulky, more versatile, and provides just about as much support if you know how to use it right. I like a loop sling hooked to my arm, with a hook or QD swivel on the front that can be quickly attached to the bottom front swivel point of the rifle, for when I need extra stability. It doesn't get in the way of your tactical carry sling, either.

I save the bipods for rifles that are purely for sniping/long range precision.
 
Agree about the sling and it worked for me before I got old, blind, and and afflicted by decrepitude! Not easy being me!
 
Changed the Mattel hard plastic pistol grip with a pebble-finish Ergo rubber grip with plug (where the grip meets trigger guard).

For the comfort and good grip in all conditions, it is money well-spent as far as I'm concerned!

Also, Additional 30 Round Magazines and a magazine loader. I have a simple one, drop in five cartriges, sharply push the plunger, repeat, repeat, etc.
 
BCM Gunfighter charging handle.
Have one for my AR10 clone and allows you
to keep your hand on the pistol grip and work
the CH with your free hand.
 
The simple rod-type "wrench" to push the nut down to simply remove the two halves of front grip. What would take two men and a boy, I can do in five seconds.
 
For me

1. Nice stock, Magpul CTR removes stock woble
2. FF tube or quad rail, one rifle has daniel defense, other MI SS-12
3. JP yellow springs to lower trigger pull weight or drop in trigger.
4. Removed FSB, installed railed gas block.
5. quality steal BUIS, I have YHM.
6. quality optics, one of mine is a eotech xps2-0, other 1-3x weaver
7. H or H2 buffer
8. a muzzle brake for my 3gun AR
9. a light for my HD AR
10. my HD AR has a sling loop on the end plate
11. my 3gun AR has a badger tactical charging handle latch
12. full auto bolt carriers
13. extractor spring upgrade
14. good mags
15. Magpul trigger guards
 
A Timney Drop-In 4# Trigger assembly made for the AR-10 as that one has a heavier hammer than the one for the -15.
 
A "workhorse gun" is open to broad interpretation. The OP didn't specifically say it was a combat weapon for use in Afghanistan, either.

Guns used to protect property and enhance self defense are also used on live targets, and hunting is the largest, most common, and most legal way to do that. 80 million people hunt in the fall for a variety of species, how is that excluded from "workhorse?"

To make the AR legal in all states, it can't be in 5.56. It has to be bigger, commonly .240 or so. I didn't make the rule, the State legislatures did. If you want a "workhorse" gun it should be big enough to at least hunt game legally.

As for shooting squared up, there's some controversy about presenting a larger target to an adversary to take a plate hit COM. That's what shooting squared up is really all about. I don't agree with being a bigger target and deliberately opting to present myself as one. It's a CQB tactic, not Infantry field craft, and very exclusive to urban conflict. Sure, having a shorter stock will facilitate it, where does that fit in with the much broader category of "workhorse." It's racehorse.

Almost ALL target triggers use a travel limiting adjustment screw that restricts the movement of parts. It certainly doesn't "bind them up," no increase in friction at all. Insinuating it's bad for one application but just fine for others doesn't even begin to explain how they aren't effectively the same. But, they are marketed for a lot more money, and we can't go around saying the Emperor is unattractively attired in his birthday suit, can we?

It's worse when the defense of expensive triggers comes without any acknowledgement of the context. "Workhorse" guns aren't by my concept "high precision long range target rifles." I put triggers last because too many consider them essential - and mount one on a dead average 2MOA barreled gun. If someone wants to defend that application, it's going to have some problems sidestepping how little accuracy they will gain. The barrel still has to shoot to the level of precision first, and the optics have to support that. Without those first, a $250 trigger is eyewash build recipe bragging.

Nothing wrong with mods to the AR, but the priority of build is matching the barrel to the task first. If it can't meet the requirements, any lesser part won't make it suddenly better, all it can do is not take performance away. All the other parts are NOT accuracy improvers, they are actually accuracy non-distractors. You don't get more accuracy with a free float, you are eliminating stock and sling pressure from making it more inaccurate. Big difference, because if they could, we'd all buy cheap junk shot out barrels, add optics, floats, and triggers, and get 1/2 MOA guns. Not ever happening.

It's prioritized and incremental. You don't get a free lunch. And "workhorse" wasn't tightly defined as a long distance, precision, combat weapon. What makes it one could be taking it too far - a racehorse gun good for a limited application, not for hauling the load.
 
A3 upper
6 position stock
Eotech
Magpul MBUS rear
Magpul P-Mags
quad rail
-offset flashlight
-Magpul AFG
and a one point sling

This is a rifle that I keep with me on the farm where we regularly have run-ins with wild, and typically aggressive, dogs
 
As for shooting squared up, there's some controversy about presenting a larger target to an adversary to take a plate hit COM. That's what shooting squared up is really all about. I don't agree with being a bigger target and deliberately opting to present myself as one. It's a CQB tactic, not Infantry field craft, and very exclusive to urban conflict. Sure, having a shorter stock will facilitate it, where does that fit in with the much broader category of "workhorse." It's racehorse.
Your opinions to the contrary, shorter stocks are more useful under a wide variety of circumstances than long stocks, regardless of shooting style.
Almost ALL target triggers use a travel limiting adjustment screw that restricts the movement of parts. It certainly doesn't "bind them up," no increase in friction at all. Insinuating it's bad for one application but just fine for others doesn't even begin to explain how they aren't effectively the same. But, they are marketed for a lot more money, and we can't go around saying the Emperor is unattractively attired in his birthday suit, can we?
Under vibration, screws can and do change their depth. Overtravel screws are screws that limit the travel of the trigger, based on their depth. Guns produce vibration when discharged. It doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out that overtravel screws are a bad idea.
 
The best upgrade I've made to my AR is Reloading equipment...now I can make my own ammo and shoot more. :)
 
-Larue 13" FF rail
-Magpul XTM rail covers
-Magpul Moe grip
-Magpul ACS stock (UBR for SPR type rifles)
-Magpul BAD lever
-Stag Ambi safety
-BCM large charging handle
-Aimpoint t1 in Larue high mount
-Troy Flip up BUIS
-Gear sector handstop (2)
-Magpul MS2 sling
-Gear sector Light mount
-Gear sector forward rail mounted sling mount
-Magpul or MI rear single point sling mount
-Pmags
-Geiselle 3 gun trigger
 
Tirod, the other advantage to shooting squared up is the ability to move and shoot. Shooting on the move is almost impossible in a traditional shooting stance.
 
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