Why all the negativity towards Rem Oil?

[Warp]

I feel like the OP has a chip on his shoulder about people not liking Rem Oil. If somebody says they don't like Rem oil because it doesn't stay where they put it, who are you to say otherwise?

From the actual personal experience angle that's the main thing I have against it and why I no longer use it, really, except for door hinges or whatever else random around the house.

FrogLube paste, even though I am only currently using it on two guns and don't plan to expand that, has really spoiled me and now I can't stand the products that run all over the place. Not that I was using remoil before that, I replaced it with Slip, but it just drives the point home even more.

 

[Cee Zee]

With so many other lubricants available, from motor oil to homemade concoctions like Ed's Red - not to mention the plethora of gun lubricants without Teflon - I see no reason to use a lubricant the may impede the operation of certain guns when so many other options are available.

I don't use Rem Oil inside of a gun either for the exact reason you describe. Again different products do different things. Teflon is put into gun oils to prevent rust. It is not good to have it inside a gun where the Teflon itself will build up and get heated into practically plastic. Other oils will leave a residue after a while too (like WD-40). The Teflon residue on the outside of a barrel or a receiver can actually be a good thing since it prevents water from getting to the metal but certain surfaces deal with it better than others. I wouldn't use it on a parkerized gun even though some say certain variations of parkerizing work well with Teflon. My experience is that parkerized metal is where you will want to use a heavy oil since the parkerizarion absorbs lots of oil and holds it against the metal to prevent rust. I've used heavier oils on parkerized stuff and it works very well IMO. I have yet to see a gun like that rust. Even cheaper versions of parkerization work well if you use the right oil with them.

 

[45_auto]

WD-40 isn't really a lube

So why is lubrication the number 1 function under WD40 on their FAQ "What does WD40 do"? Is the WD40 company lying to us? You would think that in today's society someone would have sued them for false advertising a long time ago if it isn't true.

http://wd40.com/faqs

1.LUBRICATES: The product's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.

 

[Warp]

So why is lubrication the number 1 function under WD40 on their FAQ "What does WD40 do"? Is the WD40 company lying to us? You would think that in today's society someone would have sued them for false advertising a long time ago if it isn't true.

http://wd40.com/faqs

I think this is probably why it isn't considered as much of a lube by many, from your link:

"While this may vary depending on the application, WD-40® Multi-Use Product remains effective even after it appears to dry. The corrosion and rust protection ingredients remain adhered to the surface. External conditions may, of course, require additional applications of the product for maximum protection."

Note that even they don't claim the lubricant or lube properties remaining.


Also, I think we could get some pretty interesting comparisons going if we assumed that every claim made by a lubricant manufacturer was completely honest and accurate just-because.

 

[danoam]

I've got no problem with Rem Oil. I rarely use it though. I use G96 just because I like the way it smells.

 

[nathan]

I buy the Remington oil in spray cans at walmart. I love the stuff.

 

[we are not amused]

I use Rem oil because it is designed by gun people for guns.

WD-40 was designed to remove moisture from rocket fuel lines. Since it is kerosene based, it makes a decent solvent and is a lubricant when wet, but not after it is dry.

Many years ago, I locked up a 1911 pistol, by spraying it with WD-40, Rem oil restored it to functionality.

Since then, I have been rather careful about what I put on my guns.

I will use WD-40 as a solvent on guns when I let them soak over night. It removes Cosmoline pretty well, but not as a lubricant or rust preventive. There are a number of rust preventatives on the market for long term storage, but for normal use, I use Rem oil because it is cheap, effective and widely available, and I have never had a problem using it.

I think a lot people who have a problem with it are just looking for solutions to problems that don't exist, at least not if they are using it properly. It is best used in small amounts and applied with a cloth, not poured or sprayed on.

I specifically stay away from automotive products such as motor oil or automatic transmission fluids. They are made for cars, not guns. I also don't use 3-in-1 oil or spindle oil. They are fine for their intended purpose, but tend to oxidize and get gummy, not what I want on my guns.

 

[silicosys4]

I use Rem oil because it is designed by gun people for guns.

WD-40 was designed to remove moisture from rocket fuel lines. Since it is kerosene based, it makes a decent solvent and is a lubricant when wet, but not after it is dry.

Many years ago, I locked up a 1911 pistol, by spraying it with WD-40, Rem oil restored it to functionality.

Since then, I have been rather careful about what I put on my guns.

I will use WD-40 as a solvent on guns when I let them soak over night. It removes Cosmoline pretty well, but not as a lubricant or rust preventive. There are a number of rust preventatives on the market for long term storage, but for normal use, I use Rem oil because it is cheap, effective and widely available, and I have never had a problem using it.

I think a lot people who have a problem with it are just looking for solutions to problems that don't exist, at least not if they are using it properly. It is best used in small amounts and applied with a cloth, not poured or sprayed on.

I specifically stay away from automotive products such as motor oil or automatic transmission fluids. They are made for cars, not guns. I also don't use 3-in-1 oil or spindle oil. They are fine for their intended purpose, but tend to oxidize and get gummy, not what I want on my guns.

"Frankly, in terms of mechanical performance, most oils "work"; some are better than others, but everything will make parts move for a while. The weakest area of most oils is in corrosion resistance - and on a gun, corrosion is a bad thing! There have been lots of claims, but those people who have actually taken the time to run experiments to test corrosion on steel have found that the products with the greatest hype are often the worst at corrosion resistance. Not surprisingly, plain mineral oils, such as Rem Oil, score at the very bottom of the list.

If you’re of the persuasion that wants better than a plain mineral oil but still wants cheap and easy availability, there is one product that does pretty well in corrosion resistance (not great, but better than average.) It also has good migration, a fair boundary lubrication package, is the right weight (thickness) for general firearms use, doesn't oxidize over long periods of storage, and is compatible with a wide range of metals and plastics. In addition, it is recommended by at least one real degreed firearms engineer! Just what is this miracle elixir??

Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). That's right, plain ol' ATF. The kind you get at every gas station, auto parts store, and even most convenience stores. Synthetic or regular, either will work just fine. ATF is not perfect, however; aside from the aforementioned deficiencies, it does have a slight odor to it, the red dye used to differentiate it from motor oil will stain, and it’s not non-toxic. (If you find those attributes objectionable, a decent alternative that is still readily available is "NyOil." Check your local auto parts store, in the aisle where they keep the miscellaneous lubricants and additives.)"

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

If you check Remington's info page, the main ingredient is indeed mineral oil.
http://www.remington.com/~/media/Files/MSDS/MSDS-RemOil_Liquid.ashx

 

[NY'er]

Am I the only one using Eezox? Never had an issue of any sort, protects very well (and I live in a humid, salt-air beach town) and I've used it on squeaky/ stuck hinges etc as well....

 

[HoosierQ]

Oil is oil. Some is thinner than others. Some has better rust inhibiting properties over time. If it's slippery, it fine.

Motor oil is just as good as anything...and thus RemOil is just as good as anything else. It is quite thin indeed. It is prefect for spritzing into an AR to keep it going. CLP works good.

 

[19-3Ben]

Am I the only one using Eezox?

Nope. It's my go-to. I've tried everything from Mobil 1, to Remoil, to Militec, Safariland CLP, and everything in between.
Eezox, by far, has the longest lasting lubrication feel of any of the lubes I've tried. As an experiment, I sprayed a bolt-rifle with Eezox, and tossed it in the safe for two years. When I pulled it out, i cycled the bolt, and could still feel the slick feeling as though it had been lubed 5 minutes prior. It was amazing. I've used it on guns that got tossed in the trunk of the car, and everything else. I have yet to have rust spots show up on any gun that has Eezox on it. It's absolutely my go-to lube/protectant, and I see no reason to change that.
Speaking of which, I still have a brand new bottle of Militec, I need to post up for sale... thanks for reminding me.

 

[Cee Zee]

and thus RemOil is just as good as anything else. It is quite thin indeed. It is prefect for spritzing into an AR to keep it going

Sorry friend but that's not a good idea. The Teflon in Rem Oil makes it not good for what you're using it for. Oil is not oil when the main ingredient is something that isn't oil at all. And many oils contain Teflon. Other oils contain ingredients that help them break down compounds. There really is a lot of difference between oils. An AR with a steady diet of Teflon is an AR with a future where it will need to be cleaned with a strong solvent. Luckily there are plenty of those around too. Hoppe's #9 Bore Cleaning Solvent is a good example. Trust me it is a LOT different than Rem Oil. If nothing else that Teflon from Rem Oil is going to gum up your trigger. It is actually more mineral spirits with Teflon than it is oil. The PTFE (Teflon) can gum up the grooves in a rifle bore too. I sometimes use it to protect the inside of shotgun barrels (smooth bore only) but never anything with rifling. I only use it on shotgun barrels that won't be shot much in the near future because it will protect the inside of the bore just like it protects the outside from rust. But using it on anything with rifling is going to end causing the need for a good solvent to remove the PTFE. Again Hoppe's #9 is good for such things. Another example of a product with PTFE is CLP. It contains solvent and PTFE though. It's designed as a one product fits all needs formula but IMO it doesn't clean out the old PTFE as you use it so that if you use it continuously it will build up over time. It's a good product for bad environments I suppose. It doesn't build up quickly and it does protect parts but eventually the inner workings of a receiver are going to need cleaning with a pure solvent and so will the bores of the guns it's used on.

BTW there are those that say Hoppe's #9 should never be used on any bluing but I haven't seen it cause problems yet. But I could certainly be wrong. It is strong stuff.

 

[Sav .250]

Oil evaporates ?

 

[MagnunJoe]

If it helps:
Where I live is hot @ humid year round.
I clean my guns with RemOil.
After cleaning, i lube them with CLP, either break free or Ballistol.

 

[Cee Zee]

Oil evaporates ?

It does if it's more mineral spirits than oil like Rem Oil is. But the Teflon doesn't evaporate. That's how Rem Oil actually works. The Teflon stays behind to protect the surface and it will act as a decent lube until it starts to build up and collect gunk like powder residue.

Talk to a person who rides a bicycle a lot. Most chain lubes are Teflon based because the Teflon sticks to the chain where oil will be slung off in no time. But over time your gear sprockets ill look like big chunks of plastic spun out in a spiral design. They have to be cleaned with a brush on a regular basis. FWIW gunk sticks to the Teflon also. On a bike that will include dust from the road and little pieces of grass and gravel. Eventually the chain won't even stay on the sprocket if the Teflon isn't removed. When you shift gears the chain just won't go on the next sprocket. That's where I learned how much Teflon could build up BTW. I didn't pay attention for a while and finally noticed that my sprockets looked like they were made of plastic and they weren't working well. A good cleaning and I was able to start all over again with more Teflon based lube. But I cleaned it on a regular basis after that.

That's exactly the kind of thing that will happen on a gun where Teflon is used over and over again. It builds up and it clogs up.

 

[wtr100]

Rem Oil liberally and frequently spritzed into the actions of student's High Point pistols is about the only thing that seems to keep those things running half decently

 

[HoosierQ]

Sorry friend but that's not a good idea. The Teflon in Rem Oil makes it not good for what you're using it for. Oil is not oil when the main ingredient is something that isn't oil at all. And many oils contain Teflon. Other oils contain ingredients that help them break down compounds. There really is a lot of difference between oils. An AR with a steady diet of Teflon is an AR with a future where it will need to be cleaned with a strong solvent. Luckily there are plenty of those around too. Hoppe's #9 Bore Cleaning Solvent is a good example. Trust me it is a LOT different than Rem Oil. If nothing else that Teflon from Rem Oil is going to gum up your trigger. It is actually more mineral spirits with Teflon than it is oil. The PTFE (Teflon) can gum up the grooves in a rifle bore too. I sometimes use it to protect the inside of shotgun barrels (smooth bore only) but never anything with rifling. I only use it on shotgun barrels that won't be shot much in the near future because it will protect the inside of the bore just like it protects the outside from rust. But using it on anything with rifling is going to end causing the need for a good solvent to remove the PTFE. Again Hoppe's #9 is good for such things. Another example of a product with PTFE is CLP. It contains solvent and PTFE though. It's designed as a one product fits all needs formula but IMO it doesn't clean out the old PTFE as you use it so that if you use it continuously it will build up over time. It's a good product for bad environments I suppose. It doesn't build up quickly and it does protect parts but eventually the inner workings of a receiver are going to need cleaning with a pure solvent and so will the bores of the guns it's used on.

BTW there are those that say Hoppe's #9 should never be used on any bluing but I haven't seen it cause problems yet. But I could certainly be wrong. It is strong stuff.

Well I will concede that's news!!! For the record, I personally spritz motor oil cut 50/50 with Marvel's Mystery Oil into my AR...not Remoil.

But what you say makes sense...and what I said makes sense...if we are actually talking about oil...and not Teflon. So I will keep on keeping on with my motor oil method.

Thanks.

 

[buckhorn_cortez]

It is prefect for spritzing into an AR to keep it going

If you want something specifically made for "spritzing into an AR to keep it going" - use QMAXX Black Diamond - it's specifically made for spritzing "black rifles" and is about 1000% better than RemOil for that purpose.

 

[Drail]

"Teflon is put into gun oils to prevent rust." Nope. I don't know who told you all of that stuff about Teflon but they were clearly misinformed. Teflon can't "build up" if you clean your gun when it's dirty. I have been using nothing but CLP (with Teflon) for 30 years on all of my race guns and have never once seen any of the things you describe. Have you actually seen Teflon build up in a gun to the point where it compromised function?

 

[george burns]

Pretty much one is like another. Some of the newer ones claim to bind with the metal, but who really knows. I have tried many and see no real difference in the running of the guns.
The latest one is Frog Lube, and it seems ok, but not worth 40 bucks for the amount they give you IMHO.

 

[Cee Zee]

Have you actually seen Teflon build up in a gun to the point where it compromised function?

Yes. I saw a SKS where the firing pin would not move back and forth inside the bolt. Not only was it a good way to make the gun not fire sometimes but it was also a way to make the gun fire like a machine gun if the firing pin got stuck in the forward position. There is no spring on most SKS firing pins. A few early models had them and some have had them added as an aftermarket part. If you get that that pin sticking you could be in for big problems. It was likely a combination of the oil used and gunpowder residue but not only would the firing pin not work but the bolt itself almost wouldn't function. It sometimes didn't close into full battery.

You're right that there won't be an issue if you keep your guns cleaned but that includes cleaning triggers which some people are just not comfortable doing. Ask how many people really want to clean the action on a Marlin 60. One mess up and you have the wrong bent spring and the gun won't function. Using an oil with Teflon in it on a action like that is asking for problems for most people. It is possible to take a 60 action apart and clean it really well but most people don't want to do it because it is pretty complicated. If I get to where a cleaning won't work well without taking the action apart on my 60's I use a solvent that will break down everything and I let the whole action soak in it over night. The only thing about that is you have to blow all the solvent out with an air hose then put new lube back where the moving parts need it. It only takes a very small amount of lube and if you put too much on it you end up with a dirty action again pretty soon.

BTW I've seen other "oil" leave residue behind that affected the operation of a firearm. WD-40 can leave a build up in a gun so bad that you pretty much have to clean it out every time you shoot it. I'm talking every magazine you shoot. I've seen AK's that had to be drenched with a lot of WD-40 to clean out the residue from the last time it was drenched. Actually any oil that contains mineral spirits can gum up the works of a gun. But Teflon just does it faster. WD-40 contains a lot of mineral spirits as does Rem Oil.

People who use straight motor oil are better off than people who use something like WD-40. But there are oils that are clean and effective. Nyoil is a super clean oil that is nothing but oil. My gunsmith swears by it. It's been around for over 100 years so it was way before the age of Teflon. It isn't expensive because it doesn't have some elaborate formula. It's just good clean oil. that's thick enough to stay put a while and not so thick that it stops your action as soon as you apply it.

 

[twofifty]

no-Teflon 1970s RemOil performance

I used Rem Oil for about 20 years. I never experienced rust on a single gun. I had guns stored and unchecked for up to a year at a time, too. I have nothing bad to say about it.

This has been my experience as well, with 1970s era RemOil - before Teflon was added to the product.

These firearms were stored in a dry basement for 20 years and re-oiled every 3 or so years. Not a spec of rust anywhere.

 

[stchman]

Goodness, this is what I didn't want, a big debate over which lube works the best. As far as visible teflon build up, I have never seen this on my guns using Rem Oil.

 

[we are not amused]

To all the Know-it-alls who think Automatic transmission fluid, (a hydraulid oil) or motor oil work great, fine, use them, and when my great grandchildren are still playing with my guns a hundred years from now, we'll see who right.

Heck, people here have been extolling the virtues of WD-40, who knows, maybe olive oil or bear fat works good!

Personally, my guns are far too valuable to me to play with untested products designed for other uses.

I will continue to use Rem oil, and/or other products designed and tested, to be used on guns.

Rem oil is a long established brand of proven quality.

 

[jlr1962]

I like Rem oil. I don't know if it works better or worse than other oil. The little bottles fit perfectly in my range bags and cleaning kit, and the bottles don't leak. I keep my guns clean and lubricated at all times with whatever oil I have at the time.

I did store several rifles, a shotgun, and a pistol, soft cased and wrapped in garbage bags, in the ceiling joists over a basement for 30 years that I recently recovered. I used Outers to prep them way back when. Still have the Outers cleaning kit as well. All of the guns looked just like they did when I prepped and stored them. I don't know if Outers is still available. I used 10-w40 Pennzoil on several air rifles in another area of the same basement. Same results. The soft gun cases didn't store as good as the guns. The plastic and leather dried out. The nylon did fine.

Any thoughts on restoring the leather? Small cracks are in the areas that are the bent over portion of a flap.