Will be casting soon.

[CLP]

Casting and loading for a Kimber Custom II.

I decided to go with the RCBS Lube-a-matic, Lyman heater, RCBS mold 230gr RN with handles and appropriate sizing die and top punch, and blue angel lube.
Midway didn't have the Saeco lead hardness tester- and I'm not sure of how necessary it is for me at this point. I'm going use hardball lead (6Sb2Sn92Pb) from Missouri Bullet Co which states their lead is 18BHN. I also forgot to get a thermometer (I'm using a Lee 10lb pot furnace that I use to cast for my Hawken rifle and 1858 New Model Army). Again, I'm not sure how important the thermometer is. Melting and casting lead isn't new to me, but thinking about alloy content and sizing/lubing the bullet is. Any technical issues you think I might run into? Tips? Thanks.

 

[USSR]

CLP,

I have a Saeco lead hardness tester in Excellent condition in the box that I will part with for 1/2 the Midway price. PM me if interested.

Don

 

[mdi]

Lotta stuff! I'd forgo the hardness tester and lubersizer heater until you are sure you'll need them. For 45 ACP, you don't need any alloy over 10-12 BHN , and I've even cast/shot some around 8-9 in my 1911. Key is bullet fit...

 

[41 Mag]

The thermometer is good to use while your pouring. You will find that when your pot level is going down the temp will be rising. The closer you can come to keeping a steady temp the more consistent your bullet weights will be. Also the hotter you run your alloy the quicker you will find the tin starting to oxidize on the top. If you plan to pour really hot, I would suggest to keep a layer of sawdust on the top to help minimize this and make it easier to reflux when you add in more alloy. This isn't such a big deal with pure as some run it up into the 800 degree or so range. With tin in the blend though you shouldn't need to go much more than 700 if event hat to get good fillout and nice bullets. You will also be able to use the thermometer to figure out what temp your molds sweet spot is, and be pouring keepers right from the get go.

Most ACP's will shoot cast sized to .452" just fine, BUT, you knew there was a catch right, the hardness will be better on the softer side than on the harder. So you might end up with SOME leading sized at .452 with that 18bhn alloy where sized to .453" they shoot great.

If you can find some pure lead to blend in with that harder stuff you would probably be in better shape. Not saying it won't work at all, and by all means give it a run, but at the lower pressures of the ACP the harder alloy isn't usually needed at all. If you mix it 50/50 with some pure lead it will end up around a 1/3/96 and around a 11.5 bhn which should work out a bit better IF you have issues with the harder stuff.

 

[[email protected]]

I havent bought lube in a while, but White label had good prices on bullet lube and good people to deal with. http://www.lsstuff.com/
I use an engine block heater with the magnetic base for a heater. Some lubes dont require a heater though.

 

[CLP]

I can hold off on the hardness tester, but the heater is en route. I went with a heater because I chose a lube that is supposed to be designed for handguns and has a higher melting point. I live in the heart of Alabama and I didn't want to take any chances with the lube melting. I saw that some of them softened/flowed at 90F- we'll, that's cool for mid-July around here.

Glad you told me about the BNH being higher than necessary. Luckily, I have several pounds of pure lead ingots I can add to soften it up. Will post my progress. I'm more concerned about leading at this point than accuracy. It didn't even dawn on me that too high of BNH could lead to leading.

 

[clearcut]

check out the powder coating and forget all the lube and hardness testing.
CC

 

[Reefinmike]

6 cavity tumble lube mold, lee push through sizing die and Alox. So fast and so easy. Ive found in my 45's that the softer the lead, the better. range scrap is just right.

 

[LivewireBlanco]

I've been casting range scrap for my 1911. Its pretty soft like around 10 bhn and I can go about 200 rounds before it needs a good cleaning. Leading isn't horrendous, just get a good lead remover like shooters choice and the barrel will be shiny again in no time. Also I dont own a thermometer and once you start casting you can tell when things get too hot or too cold. The bullets will frost if too hot and fillout will be poor if too cold.

 

[35 Whelen]

Don't blame you a bit for going with the harder lube and heater as it makes bullets FAR less messy. I use some soft lube, but when I'm sizing hundreds of bullets at a time in my Star sizer, I much prefer the convenience of the hard lube.

The others are right though, you can get by with a much softer alloy.

Have fun and keep us posted!

35W