winchester 22 Model 67

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oz_lowrider

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Hi there. I'm looking for a diagram so that I cam assemble an old Model 67,22 which belonged to my Grandmother. Can anyone help with a drawing? I found this rifle in a cupboard dismanteled and not used for many years. I have all the parts but can't put it together.

waboo
 
Try the Numerich gun parts web site. Often when ordering a specific part for a firearm, it has a schematic with the associated part numbers. It will not show step by step, but it will steer you in the right description. That was my first gun. I got it when I was seven. I still have it and that was 32 years ago.
 
winchester Model 67

Thanks for the reply, I'll try your suggestion. By the way, this was the first rifle I shot as a 10yo, 55 years ago. My Grandmother called it a "pea rifle" and we used it to shoot and eat pidgeons.

waboo
 
win 67

I'm trying to position and engage the sear and the trirrer. I have a flat leaf type spring about 3" X.250", the sear and the trigger. The trigger is held in place by a pin which goes through the stock, that's ok, but I am unable to fit the rest. I need a rough sketch to get me going.

waboo
 
Waboo,

If you have removed the lug and spring from the bottom of the barrel, they can be 'tricky' at best to get back in.

1) leave the sear on the bench and insert it later.

2) Place the spring into the hole in the barrel lug and just barely slide the lug into the dovetail on the bottom of the barrel.

3)There should be a notch just forward of the barrel lug for the front of the spring to rest in, adjust the spring forward or backward til it fits.

4) Gently tap the lug into the dovetail while ensuring that the spring remains flat agains the barrel in the notch. (this is where the spring has a tendency to rotate and then you have to start over)

5) Once the lug and spring are centered in the dovetail, slide the front of the sear under the spring and flex the spring until the sear snaps in place in the bottom of the receiver.

6) Slide the sear forward until the extractor is flush with the face of the receiver and reassemble the rifle.

7) Turn the rifle right side up and place the bolt in the receiver, pull the trigger and slide the bolt the rest of the way in. If you don't pull the bolt all the way rearward, just until the extractor is still flush with the receiver face, you don't have to dis-assemble the rifle to remove the bolt.

Hope this information didn't come too late...
 
Pay attention to loner5667.

M67 was my first rifle and first firearm I shot game with (tree rat).

DOes yours have a finger groove in each side of the forestock area? That would indicate the first year and a half of production, other than that a plain jane M67 has pretty much nothing to tell you when it was made.

It is basically one of John Moses Browning's designs to see how few parts he could make a working .22 rifle with, though the design at that point had other folks influences.

BTW while sitting here with one in my lap trying to figure it all out, the sear popped out from under the leaf spring the first time ever in 46 years. I understand your frustration. I used brute force and ignorance to rasie the spring enough to slip the sear/extractor back into the slot just as loner discribes and the extractor does need to be flush with the breech for everything to go to gether right.

As a youth I once took the bolt appart. Panic then insued and I was incapable of rational thought unil I got it all back together.

I was eight when I started shooting that adult sized swingle shot and could cock it only by proping it against my thigh and pulling the bolt knob back with both hands and then slipping the safety on. As my folks liked squirrel they soon promoted me to a Winchester 37 .410 with which I missed less often and never wasted time on too distant a shot with......usually.

Now that I got it out to help you, where did I put those CB Longs?

-Bob Hollingsworth
 
This is what the barrel lug and spring should look like when you get them back in the barrel

M67.gif
 
win67

Thanks loner5667. The photo put me right on the leaf spring, you wouldn't want to know where I was trying to put it. Now I see how the assembly works, thanks to you. Bolt in place and all'e ok. As a point of interest, the small coil spring that goes into the hole in the stock and the counterbored hole in the trigger to give the trigger some return, do you assemble the trigger with the locating pin assembled, then try to install the spring, or, do you assemble it all at the same time ie, spring sitting in the stock hole then install the trigger and try to get the spring into it's indent, then the pin through the stock? It's just that there must be a simple way?

waboo
 
win67

Yes Bob, It does have the finger groves along the front end of the stock so it appears to be an early one. Guess my Dad thought it was worth passing along in the family. My Daughter is "sort of" interested but I'll bet the interest increases now that it's assembled and it did belong to my Grandmother born 1881.

waboo
 
waboo,

Glad to hear you got it all back together OK.

to get the trigger and spring back in....

1) Push the trigger pivot pin into the stock until you can just slide the trigger past it and center the pin in the hole in the trigger.

2) Remove the trigger and put the spring in the hole in the stock. Then with the butt of the stock down and the inletting facing you, (works best if you are sitting down with the underside of the stock resting on the kitchen table) slide the trigger into the stock from the bottom until it lines up with the pin.

3) Now here's the tricky part, take one of those little screw drivers that they sell so that you can really mess up your chainsaw by adjusting the little screws on the side of the carberator yourself. With one hand depress the spring with the screw driver, with the other hand, slide the trigger onto the pin until it lines up with the spring and gently let the spring slide off the screw driver into the hole in the back of the trigger.

4) If the spring ended up where it is supposed to and didn't go flying into the blackhole reserved for tiny springloaded-irreplacable parts....gently push the pin the rest of the way in. Take a small pin type punch (or a handy nail) and continue to push the pin in, checking from the other side that it is relatively equal on both sides.

5) Now exhale and open beer, drink half in one gulp and swear on your mothers eyes you will never do that again....:D
 
Waboo,

Glad to hear everything worked out. Now pick up some standard velocity ammo and a pack of 11 bull NRA targets and run out and shoot the heck out of your rifle. Rifles like this need to know you still love them by taking them out and shooting them several times a month. Of course when you have about 40 such rifles, you can't play favorites, so you end up at the range almost every night....:neener:
 
Waboo,

I don't have that answer for you. I know that most manufacturers back in the day did not use standard thread paterns or pitch, and I don't have a gauge to measure them.

Are the threads buggered up?

Is the screw still in the stock? If so, I've backed the screw all the way out of the metal ferrule in the stock on several of mine to clean up the threads, doesn't work too bad. Can be kinda snug though, had to use a fat old screwdriver on the last one.

If the screw is aleady out of the stock, you could always take it to Homer D. They have a gauge built into their screw isle. Just try it gently, if it threads in without binding, go to the tool 'corral' and find the appropriate die to chase the threads with.

If that doesn't work, I'll look to see if numerich has them. Wouldn't be original, just a newly made to original specs.
 
win 67

Loner5667, thanks again for the info. I don't think you realise I'm in Brisbane Australia and we don't have a Homer D. I have seen the screw and retainer on that site you sent me I might have a go at it. I had a mate who would have been able to tell me all about the thread but he's gone to Tasmania.

I thought it might be a UNC which has a slightly different pitch to Whitworth but I will persist. It would be nice to get an original.

Do you have a name or are you really a loner?

warren
 
Sorry, I keep forgeting the world really is a pretty big place and there are other countries in it.

I recently had some difficulties similar to yours with the Winchester model 67. A couple months ago I picked up a busted up little single shot 22 rifle with this stuck in the side of the stock....

Lith1h.jpg

....imagine me trying to find parts for it here....:eek:

Everything is working out, just taking a little time. Can send you a link to the whole process on another forum if you like.

G'day, David
 
win67

It looks like it might be a Sportco, they made rifles here for years. Send me the model and I'll look around a bit. At Lithgow they made the .303 for years. There were many wildcats of that rifle. 22.303, 25.303 just to name a couple.
warren
 
Warren,

What I have found so far is it's a Lithgow No. 1 that it is a 'copy' of the Winchester model 60, and very close to the model 67. When I found it several months ago it had been in the back room at a pawn shop for about 8 years because it was broken. They had just put it out on the 'as-is' rack as a parts only gun and made me sign a waver saying that I wouldn't try to shoot it. The guy at the shop thought that there were parts missing, but didn't know for sure. So I left the shop and went staight to the range (you know, the whole 'do exactly what you're told NOT to thing'), ran a patch down the barrel and proceeded to run 50 rounds through it. I could see that it had potential, and with all of the nails holding the stock together I couldn't see where I could really do anymore damage than the previous owner.

Lith1g.jpg

Lith1j.jpg

Right now I'm just trying to get the scope that I drilled and tapped a side mount for to sight in.

I supose someday I may want to try and find an original stock for it.

David
 
Forgot I had this picture. The top bolt is from my model 67, the bottom bolt is from the Lithgow. With the exception of the safety tab on the 67 bolt, they are almost identical.

Lithgow022.jpg

David
 
win67

Good photos David. That stock is something else. I have seen and heard of that 22, but can't say, we, Dad and I, ever had one though. I'll keep my eyes open at the next Gun Show I'm going to, it's at a place called Gympie a 150 miles North of Brisbane. My guess is there will be lots of old stuff up there. Gympie has the tag of being " redneck" territory simply because the people haven't been stupid enough to swallow all the today type nonsense, politics and all that "new age" rubbish. Should be a good show.

I'll get a mate to make me a screw/bolt/retainer for the stock to barrel fixing.

warren
 
Warren,

Have you made any progress on the M67 yet?

How'd the 'Redneck' gun show turn out?

I just ordered a pair of leather lens covers for the Lithgow from a guy in England, and I've been looking for an old set of Winchester sling swivels, the kind that use the hooks on the ends of the sling. May have to make those though, kinda hard to find these days.

Kinda like this....
8304_1.jpg

and this....
Winchesterswivel.jpg

David
 
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