Yugo SKS Stuck Bolt

[22HM77]

I took my SKS out to the range the other day and after firing a round the bolt locked forward and the casing failed to eject. I pulled the charging handle back and the empty casing ejected fine. I repeated the process a few more times, and each time I shot it the bolt was harder to pull back. By the last round I fired I had to take a mallet to the charging handle to eject the case. And yes, I had the gas valve turned on to the semi-auto mode, though I don't really think that is part of the problem with the bolt becoming stuck in place.

After the range session I took the rifle home and found that it was missing the gas-valve-button spring. I'm not sure if this played a role in the malfunction of not?

Anyway, my question is what do you think went wrong with the rifle, and how can I fix it? I've already replaced the gas valve and bought a gas valve button spring. I'll be cleaning the rifle very well this weekend too. But, is there anything else I can do to ensure the rifle works the next time I make it to the range (the range is quite a drive and I don't want to go out there and not be able to shoot much again)? Thanks.

 

[bhhacker]

once you have those replaced, that should do the trick. Have fun at the range!

 

[chris in va]

I'm trying to picture how that button works from the Yugo I had. I seem to remember there being a couple slots for the button, and I can see how the spring not working would make the valve slip out of the slot.

Also clean the chamber really good. What ammo are you using?

 

[22HM77]

I don't think its the gas valve (even though I replaced it) because the bolt should have still cycled fine by hand (I would think at least). Instead, it got stuck really tight, and I don't know why/how.

I was using Wolf HP at the time.

 

[jpwilly]

There's a gas cutoff valve just ahead of the gas tube on Yugo SKS's...that button that you can press down on and move back and forth. Try it in the "other" position!

 

[MMcfpd]

I had a problem with my SKS bolt sticking in the forward position after firing that I discovered was the result of several pierced primers. The primer debris was causing binding that went away once I cleaned it out thoroughly.

 

[ROMAK IV]

One more thing to check. Make sure the recoil spring has the unsupported part inside the hole in the bolt carrier. The part that should go in the bolt carrier will be in a spiral shape while the other side, the spring will be straight because it is supported by a two piece rod. Don't know why, but the spring will bind, and for some reason, cause the bolt to stick. I had bought a really nice Chinese SKS, and when I fired it, the bolt would stick shut to where I had to knock the case out with a cleaning rod. I initially though it was a gas related problem, but discovered the recoil spring in backwards when I disassembled it. Gas system was fine and the rifle functioned flawlessly there after. I could understand why the bolt wouldn't cycle, but not why it would stick, so just check anyway.