Bipod for savage axis

I too am looking for a bipod ( Savage 111 FNS) for next years elk hunt.

I'm torn between a 6 to 9 inch or 9 to 13 inch.

Outfitter said shot likely will be prone to 300.

milemaker13 said:

Just ordered a new Savage Axis II in .30-06. I got the XP package with a weaver scope included ($279 @ bass pro) This is my first foray into long range accuracy. I'd like to add a bipod and would like some recommendations from those who know. The rifle appears to have sling studs already installed.

There are many options on Amazon and other sites but I don't know enough about any of them to make a decision. I'd like a good solid mount, not some one size fits all attachment.

Click to expand...

You want a nice solid attachment, get rid of that noodle they call a stock.

milemaker13 said:

Come again?

Click to expand...

He means that the plastic stocks on those lower end guns are crap. Head over to Boyd;'s Bell & Carson, etc and look for a solid, rigid, composite stock. Then take it to a competent gun smith and have the action glass bedded to the new stock. That will buy you far more accuracy than a bipod and it should be your minimum starting point.

Since you already have the wood stock, (thanks for specifying) get a Harris; the original is still the best, until you get up in to the sniper rifle bipods that cost more than your gun. The guns themselves turn in fantastic accuracy considering their price, even with the noodle stock. My Axis (basic Axis in .223 without the Accu-trigger, and in the plastic noodle stock) still shot under MOA at 50 yards, and at 1 MOA at 100, with several different scopes ranging from a Barska to a Nikon. I prefer a bag rest to a bipod, but I did buy one for it. Still have it even though I don't have a rifle I can put it on currently.

I'll vote for Harris as well, and get the pivot model and put one of the pod locks on it.

milemaker13 said:

This rifle has a hardwood stock

Click to expand...

The factory wood stock on my Savage 110 was a pretty good stock. I still suggest the glass bedding of the action and stock for accuracy, but yeah, the Harris bipods have a good following.

I have an original Harris that a friend gave me that rides around on my hunting guns pretty often.
I also use a cheap 25 dollar Amazon carbon pod a lot as well.

The carbons 6-9, the Harris is 9-13, and I find the lengths to be pretty interchangeable tho. I do prefer the Harris' adjustability, the notched legs don't are faster but don't give you the fine level of adjustment the friction lock legs do.

I have 2 bipod a Caldwell 9-13 and a Harris 6-9 swivel. I like the 9-13 height better, but the Harris is a better pod. It has lock down screws to hold leg height, and a softer rubber feet Vs hard plastic feet on the Caldwell. The plastic tend to bounce more.

Congratulations on your new rifle hope it a tack driver like mine was.

Assuming you don’t want to spend Atlas money on this ~$200 rifle, then I’d buy a Harris swivel model, and add a pod-loc knob. The Atlas is a better pod and might actually be a better choice for hunting in many situations, having locking legs instead of spring loaded, and having pan feature. But the Harris pod can be owned for $100-130, plus the knob, while the Atlas more than doubles that.

I’ll also say, for a less refined palate, or a more intense budget miser, there are very good Harris Knock-Off’s out there. I have a couple I bought at Walmart, Winchester branded, many years ago - would have to be 18-20 - and other than knowing one knob is “wrong,” I can’t really tell the difference for 90% of the hunting and shooting I do.

I will also mention - the sling swivel stud mount used in these rifles might be a “one size fits all,” universal mount, but don’t be convinced that’s a bad thing. Most of the time, I find the sling stud mount to be lower profile and more rigid than many of the picatinny mounts (also universal).

milemaker13 said:

Another question- height? Standard seems to be 6-9" or you can go 9-13" or so..
My shooting will most always be done at a bench since this is all I have access to. No prone or anything else allowed. Only seated at the shooting bench.

Click to expand...

6-9"

If you have a sling stud on your stock, and you indicated that you do, you do not need an adapter, just the bipod. The adapters are for rifles that don't have sling studs, mostly AR's, and shotguns, which normally have the sling stud mounted on the magazine cap. My Harris has a way of attaching a sling to it after the bipod is attached to the sling stud itself.

stillquietvoice said:

View attachment 855468 View attachment 855468
This is my Harris pivot 6 - 9 in.

Click to expand...

Sorry I quoted myself, but I had in a previous thread pictures of how the Harris bipod attaches. Thought you might like to see it.

milemaker13 said:

Do I need to buy a bipod (~$100) and a sling stud adapter (~$100)?
Harris does not seem to have much info online about their products, I emailed them with several questions. I got back one single line- " All our bipods attach directly to the sling swivel stud."

Is there anywhere I can find manuals or sales info?

Click to expand...

The standard Harris mount uses the sling swivel stud already found on most rifles.

If you have one of these (pic stolen from the internet), then your rifle is ready to accept a Harris bipod in a matter of seconds.

6-9” height. Prone and bench, 9-13” ends up too tall for best stability.

Unlike many others, I prefer 9-13" all around. However, I am in the 6'5" range height-wise which likely plays into my preference. I found I always used the 6-9 fully extended on the bench, so moved to the 9-13" because it felt more solid at 9" than the 6-9" (since it was fully collapsed, obviously) and it gave me more height to use if I needed it.

As a comparison... I once bought a Caldwell bipod, a near-perfect-appearing copy of a Harris. A couple of months later I bought a Harris and the Caldwell went directly in the trash. The materials used in the Harris are stiffer, tougher, and much more stable. I'm 5'9" and I use a 6"-9" model, but use it mostly on a bench. Generally it's set on a mid-height setting.

I also use an adapter from GG&G that converts the bipod sling swivel attaching point to a rail quick disconnect.

I personally prefer friction locks, might just be the “Devil I know,” but I like the quicker adjustment. On the clock, I usually set my pod long, especially long on the left leg, then if I need to lower the rifle, I can reach up and quickly shorten the left leg only, relying on the tilt feature to square the rifle again once I’m in the right height range for my rear bag. The weight of the rifle and the return spring of the legs does the adjusting for me - I wrap my hand around the leg, drag my pinky on the telescoping leg section, use my thumb and index finger to unlock the knob - then gravity does the rest.

I’ve used notched legs in the past. Most guys start with the legs short, then pull them longer if needed, letting the rifle settle back into the next notch down. But that means I have to lift/tilt the rifle off of the leg - a heavy barreled rifle, lifting from a strength-compromised position (prone or bench). I’ve tried starting long and letting the rifle fall as I do with the friction lock models, but the weight of the rifle binds the notch lock, so I still have to lift/tilt the rifle to get the weight off of the leg. I have to “drive” the rifle a lot more than I’d like with my right hand to unbind the notch-locks, and usually need to break my position a bit more than I’d like, so I keep coming back to the friction locks.