Just saw your post on Ruger Forum re: the ejector and bolt clearance with the picture. I checked mine just now and I have way more clearance than your picture. I tried to tweak it a little and got it better. Afreaid to "tweak" too much.... that usually when I break thngs.
You're talking about these, right?
Indeed there's a possibility to bend it too much and cause ejector to drag upon the bolt. That may cause an FTE. Surprisingly it takes very little. But a gap also causes issues. I haven't reached the bottom of the problem here.
Apparently striking the bevel of the case makes ejection weak, and then it looks like the spent case starts spinning inside the action instead of falling out clearly. The bolt then can overrun it before it exited the ejection port, and at times stovepipe. Unfortunately, I do not have an actual high-speed camera.
In addition, I also have a Henry Homesteader and an AR9. They have no issues like these at all, and the only difference that I can see is that their ejectors are shorter. It is possible that Ruger's ejector actually deflects when bolt rides it and when case impacts it, and works like a spring rather like a chunk of steel. But that happens deep inside the bolt as it recoils and there's no way to collect evidence. Either way, Ruger's ejector has to be set right.
My recommendation is to bend it just enough - not too much.
Also, do not do it repeatedly. You risk creating so-called "work hardening", which can lead to a fracture. Try it one time, and if it does not work, call Ruger.
P.S. Best of all, don't bend anything. Buy a magwell off eBay and scavenge an ejector. Chances are it's going to work and then you have a spare.