22 LR: Old vs New?

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Catpop

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During my recent 22 shooting sessions I’ve begun to notice some fouling related issues, notability the effort required to empty and reload the 8 shot RUGER SP101 cylinder.
When rotating out some of my older 22 LR ammo (1989 Winchester-gold colored boolits bought in bulk at 2 cents), I noticed I get get less fouling than with some of the newer purchases (Federal auto match-black colored boolits bought at 3-4 cents) Both seem to shoot and group equally well for general plinking and paper punching (although I have not run an actual accuracy test)

Insert: Even though 1989 Winchester was bought in a bulk 1000 plus round purchase it was packed in 500 round bricks of 10- 50 round boxes so I don’t really classify it as the loose bulk packs of today.

I’ve been trying to rotate my 22 LR ammo stock, which is considerable, but now question that decision. Maybe I should shoot the new first and save the old for hard times?
Any input here?
Thanks as always!
 
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I don’t have any of the older Win ammo but have some Federal. I notice a bit of sticking of spent cases in my 617 but suspect it’s the wax lube. Some newer bullets seem to have other means than wax to lube, like your black coating which helps a lot at least for me. Federal had a rebate that ended last year and I stocked up on those!
 
I test new 22lr ammo in 2 rifles. If accuracy is around 1/2 " @ 50 yards , the ammo lots get set a side for them.

The lots that dont group well in rifles gets used in handguns.

Old ammo gets shot first. Different lot numbers of the same brand may produce different accuracy.

When testing for accuracy, its best to clean the barrel when changing to different brands or fire 10 rounds of the new lot to recondition the barrel.
Not all lubes work well with each other.
 
I keep some of the “good stuff” separate from plinking ammunition but the reason isn’t age, rather what shoots the best.

In reality you are not comparing old to new but apples to oranges, it’s not the same ammunition or even the same manufacturer, just happens to work in the same firearms.
 
I would suspect it's fouling from the older lube. I also have a large stash of 22 lr ammo, and some of the older stuff, 1980 vintage, the wax lube is dry and harder. The only 22 lr ammo that is "too dirty" in my guns is Remington, especially their high velocity, hyper ammo...
 
I’ve begun to notice some fouling related issues, notability the effort required to empty and reload the 8 shot RUGER SP101 cylinder.

When rotating out some of my older 22 LR ammo ... I get get less fouling than with some of the newer purchases
I am currently doing 20+ brand/model 22LR comparison and finding current manufacture lots bought this past year is burning relatively slightly cleaner than 22LR I shot in the 80s and 90s with the exception of certain brand/model like Remington Thunderbolt - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lector-3-break-in.859106/page-2#post-11351163

I am also not getting any leading in the barrel after around 3000 rounds without the use of a bore brush. I have cleaned the barrel only with Hoppes #9 solvent and dry patch (Kleenex Viva paper towel) pushed through and bore is clean and shiny.

Maybe I should shoot the new first and save the old for hard times?
Old ammo gets shot first.
You should shoot the older ammo first as powder continues to degrade affected by temperature of storage - https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/safety/gunpowder-stability
 
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I always try to shoot old ammo first, subject to feeding requirements. I have some autoloaders that just don't like the mid-1980s-Winchester-bulk-pack that I had stashed away.
 
Spats

I always try to shoot old ammo first, subject to feeding requirements. I have some autoloaders that just don't like the mid-1980s-Winchester-bulk-pack that I had stashed away.

I pretty much rotate through the old stuff first or if it's not all that accurate (like a lot of the bulk ammo), I pass it along to the kids to use.
 
I would suspect the type of lube to be the issue. I generally but 22 that uses a plating if I can. Burn up the old stuff.
I don't know how you have ammo that is almost as old as me. Mine is hard pressed to make it 5 years.
 
I never see much difference between old and new. But the only REM ammo I have is older golden and I have not purchased any for years due to misfires and dirty residue. If the new stuff is OK I MIGHT be persuaded to try some in the future. I have noticed some ammo works better in some guns as well.
 
or if it's not all that accurate (like a lot of the bulk ammo), I pass it along to the kids to use.

My kiddos shoot what I shoot, since I’m cleaning...:)

I haven’t figured it out, but humans see me as generous when I give them headache ammunition and tell them I am doing so.:D

My definition of what “works” may be different then theirs...;)
 
After a few cylinders, I’ll start to get sticking In my Model 17. A few more and it gets worse.

I use CCI Mini Mag and Std Vel as well as Browning and Winchester bulks. All the same as far as case sticking.
 
After a few cylinders, I’ll start to get sticking In my Model 17. A few more and it gets worse.

I use CCI Mini Mag and Std Vel as well as Browning and Winchester bulks. All the same as far as case sticking.
That is odd. CCI minimag is my preferred ammo.
You must have tight Chambers.
 
A few thoughts:

1989 was 31 years ago. Gunpowder degrades over time, especially cheap ball powder. If stored well, it can last decades, but degradation still occurs... and it has been decades. Reference Hodgdon's published document: https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/safety/gunpowder-stability
It is also possible that the older ammo has less ignitable propellant to burn, making it "cleaner."
I would continue to rotate out old stock. Of the many things that age well, 22LR isn't one of them.

Secondly, Federal AM22 (Automatch) is most likely the lowest quality ammo that can legally have the word "match" in the name. The name is intentionally confusing that they have "matched" the pressure curve for use in semi-autos. Expect uneven charges and a few surprise subsonics in every box (at least when used in a rifle).

The last thought is that fouling is relative and I doubt there is anything "wrong" with the revolver. What is dirty to some is par for others. A lot depends on the bullet lube and pressure curve. Then, add in rimfire inconsistency. Does anyone actually believe the brass dimensions or wall thickness is actually consistent in bulk ammo? Some cartridges easily fit the cylinder while others need some oomph, both on loading and extraction. Add in - canted bullets, uneven drive bands, variations in charge weight, crimp, etc. Add in burning some fresh powder and "When did I last clean this revolver>" - and it's very easy to see how a situation like this may have occurred.
 
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