9mm plunk/oal?

[Axis II]

I loaded a dummy 124gr extreme 9mm at 1.150 used fcd to just remove flare and checked it against a factory round and spec was almost the same. I took my m&p 4.5 barrel off and dropped a factory round in it and dropped out fine. I plunked the extreme dummy and plunked same as factory and fell out.

Is this right?

Now for oal I see guys use different oal and the 1.150 fit fine but no powder so how does one determine if a handgun bullets too long? Does it hit rifling like a rifle?

 

[Bullseye]

When you plunk test, it isn't so much whether it falls out or goes in easily, although it should. It's where it stops.
The cartridge overall length for the 9mm is important. Seating a bullet too deep can dangerously increase pressure.
You do have the Lyman #49 manual.right? Read the text on pg 340.
I'll look for that diagram I had seen when I was learning about plunk testing.

Well, here's a simple image I found in the meantime. They call it plunk I guess cause you can drop the cartridge into the barrel and it will rest like the second image and actually make a "plunk sound" when it stops.
CLICK ON THUMBNAIL
View attachment 224063

 

[joneb]

I agree with sigsmoker the round must headspace properly.

 

[nevadabob]

Was going to direct you to the "Reloading Library of Wisdom" sticky section up above us. There's a link, or should be, to the Plunk Test. When I just clicked on it a blank screen with the words "Not Found" appeared.
That being the case, Eggleston Munitions (www.egglestonmunitions.com) has a good article on the Plunk Test in their articles section.

 

[Walkalong]

Oh my, it is gone, isn't it. My old link also fails to bring anything up as well.

 

[GBExpat]

Here is graphic that I captured here awhile back from a Thread about reloading .45acp:

 

[Bullseye]

When I just clicked on it a blank screen with the words "Not Found" appeared.

Give it some time, I do believe Derek will address the 404 links that do that eventually.

 

[Axis II]

When you plunk test, it isn't so much whether it falls out or goes in easily, although it should. It's where it stops.
The cartridge overall length for the 9mm is important. Seating a bullet too deep can dangerously increase pressure.
You do have the Lyman #49 manual.right? Read the text on pg 340.
I'll look for that diagram I had seen when I was learning about plunk testing.

Well, here's a simple image I found in the meantime. They call it plunk I guess cause you can drop the cartridge into the barrel and it will rest like the second image and actually make a "plunk sound" when it stops.
CLICK ON THUMBNAIL
View attachment 224063

mine looks just like that. what I did was put a factory round in the barrel and then my dummy to see if they matched and they did. it did make a plunk noise too. the round fit flush in the barrel like the factory one.

 

[Bullseye]

I may be a little wrong in the wording here but the case mouth ( in auto pistols ) is what stops the cartridge in the barrel.
Not the shape of the bullet.
This is how all my automatic pistols work anyway. 9mm 40S&W and 45auto.
So case length and taper crimp have something to do with this.
If you look inside your barrel where the plunking takes place and the cartrdige rests, there is a very thin ring inside the barrel that the cartridge stops at and the bullet starts.
I suppose it might be possible to taper crimp a cartridge to the point where it would not rest there and go too far forward and plunk below the the diagrams shown. A short case would do the same.
There is no need to trim your 9mm brass. It is good to chamfer and deburr them.
If it is too short tho, throw it away. It will go too deep.
If you seat your bullet too deep it will increase the pressure in the case and if you seat the bullet too long it may not feed correctly while loading cycling and firing.
BOTH CAN CAUSE INJURY and/or damage the firearm.
Different loadings will sometimes require die adjustments because of the size, shape and weight of the bullets.
But if you stick with a certain favorite combination that your pistol likes and it functions with your proper loads, you can adjust and lock your dies in place and they will make the same size loads for your pistol every time without having to mess with them using the same bullets.
The plunk test is not the only factor in making a cartridge safe and functional in your pistol.

View attachment 224079

 

[jaowens76]

Ohihunter, I load mine a hair long at around 1.16-1.17 IF the shape of the bullet allows. I had some with a very pronounced rim the I had to load super short 1.05 in order to plunk or even feed in my Sig. So just remember if you change bullet shape/design to re-plunk.

 

[Axis II]

I may be a little wrong in the wording here but the case mouth ( in auto pistols ) is what stops the cartridge in the barrel.
Not the shape of the bullet.
This is how all my automatic pistols work anyway. 9mm 40S&W and 45auto.
So case length and taper crimp have something to do with this.
If you look inside your barrel where the plunking takes place and the cartrdige rests, there is a very thin ring inside the barrel that the cartridge stops at and the bullet starts.
I suppose it might be possible to taper crimp a cartridge to the point where it would not rest there and go too far forward and plunk below the the diagrams shown. A short case would do the same.
There is no need to trim your 9mm brass. It is good to chamfer and deburr them.
If it is too short tho, throw it away. It will go too deep.
If you seat your bullet too deep it will increase the pressure in the case and if you seat the bullet too long it may not feed correctly while loading cycling and firing.
BOTH CAN CAUSE INJURY and/or damage the firearm.
Different loadings will sometimes require die adjustments because of the size, shape and weight of the bullets.
But if you stick with a certain favorite combination that your pistol likes and it functions with your proper loads, you can adjust and lock your dies in place and they will make the same size loads for your pistol every time without having to mess with them using the same bullets.
The plunk test is not the only factor in making a cartridge safe and functional in your pistol.

View attachment 224079

This is what I did yesterday. I set all the dies up per lee instructions. I had to take apart the sizing die because the de capping pin wouldn't touch the primer at all so I moved it down. I resized a blazer brass case, flared the mouth to where the bullet just sat inside it and then seated to 1.150 and set the fcd up per instructions. I measured the case on the side where the bullet sits and let say it was 1.320 without going into the fcd. I then ran the round into the fcd and it came out lets say 1.318-1.319. I took my m&p 4.5 inch barrel off and dropped a factory Remington round in and noted where it stopped and how it acted. I then took my dummy round and dropped it and heard the plop and noted where it sat and everything looked exactly the same as the factory round. I haven't put the dummy in the mag to see if it cycles yet but will do that today. the round also falls out with ease and drops in and bottoms out on something like the factory round did.

anything I did wrong or should be doing?

 

[Bullseye]

Sounds good to me. I wouldn't load up a whole bunch before test firing your loads.
If they work as desired, you will know what to do when you get back to loading.
Just be careful careful CAREFUL with powder. Double check everything.
I even weigh my bullets no matter what the box or bag they come in says they are.
Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
Keep records in a book and label your lots with what the loads are.
and have fun.
It wasn't so long ago,
I asked the very same questions you are asking.
This stuff will sink in after awhile but you'll never know everything. I learn new stuff almost every time I am in handloading territory.

 

[Bullseye]

Since you are using Lee dies, I don't think they have a locking threaded hex screw in the locking ring so your adjustments may wander off. My Lee dies can creep loose after a number of loadings.
Start long and adjust to proper cartridge length. Check them from time to time.
It's easier than having to deal with pulling deep seated bullets.

 

[2bfree]

I have some bullets that have to be loaded at 1.08 and others that can be loaded to the max of 1.169. The bullet shape and mag is what determines your max OAL . You can read this thread here and it will explain it better than I can. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.0

 

[Axis II]

Sounds good to me. I wouldn't load up a whole bunch before test firing your loads.
If they work as desired, you will know what to do when you get back to loading.
Just be careful careful CAREFUL with powder. Double check everything.
I even weigh my bullets no matter what the box or bag they come in says they are.
Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
Keep records in a book and label your lots with what the loads are.
and have fun.
It wasn't so long ago,
I asked the very same questions you are asking.
This stuff will sink in after awhile but you'll never know everything. I learn new stuff almost every time I am in handloading territory.

I am beginning to copy a lot of the info from here and saving it on my computer so I can reference it. Im using the lee auto drum that dumps it when I flare. I will be checking each one on the scale for now just to make sure. I planned on loading about 5 just to make sure everything is good then 5-10more and if all works then load a hundred or so.

 

[Axis II]

Since you are using Lee dies, I don't think they have a locking threaded hex screw in the locking ring so your adjustments may wander off. My Lee dies can creep loose after a number of loadings.
Start long and adjust to proper cartridge length. Check them from time to time.
It's easier than having to deal with pulling deep seated bullets.

I check a couple throughout the loading session just to make sure nothing changed. my lee dies only have a rubber washer to lock them to the turret plate and ive had them wiggle loose. I caliper like every 10th one just to make sure.

 

[Bullseye]

sounds like a plan. good luck.

 

[Walkalong]

Links are working in the Reloading Library of Wisdom now.

The Plunk Test

http://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...rel-find-a-max-o-a-l-with-your-bullet.506678/

.

 

[Dudedog]

I have found the auto drum to be pretty good charge weight wise. Just make sure you rotate the turret when weighing test charges or they will be heavy when you are actually loading.
I check about every 5 to start then once I am going maybe every 15th one.

 

[Axis II]

Took the advice of an m&p loader at 1.140 and they plunked fine without a crimp but I did it anyway and all shot fine. Colored bullet and no marks when letting the slide down.