Anybody into Annealing?

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CatManDo

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I just got an Annealer to hopefully increase the number of times I can reload my 6.5 Creedmoor Brass. Got it going yesterday and did trial runs with short brass (300 Blackout) and with some 5.56 brass. Machine runs flawlessly and setup/learning curve very easy. I looked at the Bench Source, but the price scared me away and I came across a relative "new comer" in the Dallas Fort Worth area and bought his machine. Built to last with a SS Case and 6061 Aluminum rollers and a warranty that's like a Dillon warranty.
Here's a pic of the cover page on the manual which includes the contact info. If you're needing an Annealer, this one will do from 300 Blackout to 338 Lapua.
MBR5_zpsfpincjvd.gif
 
Will do Ron. BTW, Annealing is more science than art, and the differences in Annealing techniques are all over the place. I chose my particular machine for a number of reasons, #1 of which was quality. I know the maker of the MRB Annealer and he's kind of a OCD (in a very good way) retired Engineer. Quality materials, design, and workmanship. #2 was cost. The MRB Annealer is also a reasonably priced unit. Unlike the Induction Annealer ($1000 +) you could buy 3 of the MRB. Bench Source is over $500 (I first looked at them) and out of my price range. Anyhow, I have it set to go and ran trials yesterday and time permitting major runs today. I'll post the results.
 
Will do Ron. BTW, Annealing is more science than art, and the differences in Annealing techniques are all over the place. I chose my particular machine for a number of reasons, #1 of which was quality. I know the maker of the MRB Annealer and he's kind of a OCD (in a very good way) retired Engineer. Quality materials, design, and workmanship. #2 was cost. The MRB Annealer is also a reasonably priced unit. Unlike the Induction Annealer ($1000 +) you could buy 3 of the MRB. Bench Source is over $500 (I first looked at them) and out of my price range. Anyhow, I have it set to go and ran trials yesterday and time permitting major runs today. I'll post the results.
It looks very similar to another annealer made in Texas by Doug Giraud.
I don't know if your annealer comes with any pressure regulator for the torch but if it doesn't I will suggest the Goss 328-EP-70G regulator.
This regulator along with a few low cost fittings has been used quite a bit.
By using a regulator you will have much more repeatable results since cylinder pressure can be affected by ambient temperature or the cooling effect evaporating propane has on the cylinder.
1EB6E7D2-245A-4F5E-886C-8872E65DE355_zpsjzisu5ne.jpg
 
No but I tried it a time or two and I could never get the necks to soften more than once. Nowadays I save a lot of work by simply using an undersized neck.
 
It looks very similar to another annealer made in Texas by Doug Giraud.
I don't know if your annealer comes with any pressure regulator for the torch but if it doesn't I will suggest the Goss 328-EP-70G regulator.
This regulator along with a few low cost fittings has been used quite a bit.
By using a regulator you will have much more repeatable results since cylinder pressure can be affected by ambient temperature or the cooling effect evaporating propane has on the cylinder.
1EB6E7D2-245A-4F5E-886C-8872E65DE355_zpsjzisu5ne.jpg
that's a big 10-4.... huge resemblance to Giraud's annealer
 
Years ago I started annealing cases. The first thing I did was decide on basic and simple rules. I used the basic and simple rules to make annealing equipment. And then the Internet came along.

F. Guffey
 
I think they ALL look similar, it's the engineering behind the facade that makes the difference. I like the Giraud Annealer a lot, I couldn't swing the shot to my wallet. I looked at the Annealeez Annealer and didn't like the "changing of the Delrin rollers" aspect to run smaller or larger brass. The MRB is efficient, will handle large or small brass with a less than 5 minute add-on and has a great warranty.
BTW Thump rrr; thanks for the suggestion for the regulator, I WILL be getting one.
CMD
 
I looked at the Annealeez Annealer and didn't like the "changing of the Delrin rollers" aspect to run smaller or larger brass.


It takes less than two minutes to swap them out. You spend more time lining the torch up than anything else. To each their own but changing the rollers is a nonissue.
 
That is, unless you have a misalignment issue. Might be a minimal chance, but Murphy is always lurking around.
Also, the Annealeez costs almost as much as the MRB if you need to do smaller brass, i.e. you have to buy their kits.
CMD
 
Misalignment w/ what? The wheel cost is minimal. The design itself does not lend itself well to short cases. 300 BLK is as short as I would go. You run the risk of hitting the body w/ the flame if you go shorter. Ask me how I know.
 
You didn't watch Annealeez's youtube video, did ya? Clearly warns about misalignment when changing the roller(s); could really mess up the timing. 300 Blackout is why I got this Annealer.
 
I own one so I don't know what you are talking about. The alignment he is talking about is the relation of the cutouts on the wheels. It has to do w/ the timing. Don't want to drop it on the lower roller to be picked up a split second later. That is the only thing you would have to worry about. Like I said, the rollers aren't an issue. But what would I know since I own one.

Here it is running 300 BLK brass: http://s198.photobucket.com/user/dr...435E58-D1DC-4E32-BA77-130B64B89F8A_1.mp4.html
 
CatManDo said:
Unlike the Induction Annealer ($1000 +) you could buy 3 of the MRB.

The Fluxeon "Annie" Annealer I bought was around $450. I've used a Bench-Source and that's what pushed me towards an induction unit. Now that I've figured out how to use the Annie it seems to do a good job with no finicky set up required. An automated feeder that rotates the case would be nice so I'm waiting on Giraud for one of those. Here are some 6.5 Creedmoor cases annealed using the Annie.

annealed.jpg
 
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It's really not necessary to argue about this stuff. The fact that there are some really good gas and induction annealing options out there is a good thing.

http://www.giraudtool.com/annealer1.htm

http://mikesreloadingbench.com/mikes reloading bench_025.htm

http://www.bench-source.com/id81.html

http://www.ampannealing.com/

http://www.fluxeon.com/

If I were looking to buy a gas annealer I'd most likely buy the model from Giraud. If looking for an induction annealer, I'd buy something like the Annie that can be integrated with a case feeder. As it stands, I much prefer induction over flame.
 
Very cool Mr. Hastings!! Hope it wasn't too much of a battle putting those together.
 
Hey dragon; here's the video you must have missed concerning "timing" of the rollers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXNWDx1SpVI&feature=youtu.be
BTW, I almost bought the Annealeez, but for the same money, I don't have to swap rollers if I want to run 300 blackout or swap rollers to process my grandson's 338 Lapua brass. I'm sure the Annealeez is a great machine, I just think (for my purposes) MRB annealer is the correct fit.
 
I notice quite a few videos on Youtube, or posts on forums, show or describe using Tempilaq or similar to test the temperature of the brass during annealing. I don't see many validating the process by showing before and after groups using the annealed cases. Surely this is the most important thing since the reason to anneal is to enable the reloader to control neck tension and shoulder bump, both of which affect accuracy.
 
I've been using the Tempilaq 750 degree to establish an accurate reliable baseline for time/temp settings. As far as empirical evidence that my efforts are being rewarded; I haven't loaded any yet, but when I do, I will post my results.
 
I use the flame color as the indicator and set the machine to index just before the flame would change color from blue to orange (using propane will not work with mapp gas).
 
I don't see many validating the process by showing before and after groups using the annealed cases. Surely this is the most important thing since the reason to anneal is to enable the reloader to control neck tension and shoulder bump, both of which affect accuracy.

I am the fan of validating; when validating neck tension what unit of measure is used to measure neck tension? I use bullet hold in pounds because I use bullet hold, not tension. I know; and understand all reloaders understand what the other reloader is talking about especially when using ‘bump’ to describe moving the shoulder. I accept the fact no one understands me when I say I find it most difficult to bump the shoulder. More times than not the shoulder on my cases do not move when fired and or when being sized.

Again, I have fired cases in chambers with .127” clearance meaning the case from the shoulder to the case head was .127” shorter than the distance from the shoulder in the chamber to the bolt face without the shoulder on the case moving. I know what they say, if a shooter chambers a round in a chamber with excessive clearance the case head will separate.

F. Guffey
 
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