Banish 22K review

Mark_Mark

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Jan 9, 2021
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has anybody tried the Banish 22k that comes free with Silence Central deal?

I talked with thr rep. and he said it’s just a OK suppressor but I’m sure it’s his job to up-sale.


thoughts??
 
has anybody tried the Banish 22k that comes free with Silence Central deal?

I talked with thr rep. and he said it’s just a OK suppressor but I’m sure it’s his job to up-sale.


thoughts??

Yes it is a small monocore titanium suppressor. I did not think it would be very great BUT on a P322 or Mark IV LITE pistol it is hearing safe to shoot. I am very sensitive to noise and find it great to shoot those two 22LR pistols without hearing protection.

I had the barrel on a Rossi Rio Bravo threaded to accept a suppressor. It has an 18" barrel and with the little short suppressor is as quiet as a air rifle when shooting subsonic ammo. The nice thing about it is the ability to shoot 22 Short ammo and that increases capacity in the firearm. Shooting high velocity ammo is much louder with the sonic crack and is a great demo for people new to suppressors.

On an M&P 15-22 or M&P 15-22P it is not so great as the semi-auto makes a lot more noise than the lever action when the bolt opens. A Ruger 10/22 is a lot better but still not as nice as the lever action. A 5.56 rifle can is much better on these platforms.

The bad thing about this monocore suppressor is that it gets dirty and requires cleaning every 200 rounds. I have been using an anti-seize on the inside of the suppressor to help with the disassembly.
 
^^ Thanks for that. I have one on the way - stamp got approved a couple of weeks ago.
I didn't know what to expect either. I'm stocked up on plumber's grease, which was recommended to coat the innards for easier cleaning.
What about "electrode gel"? It was recommended for a 9mm can for "wet" firing. As I understood, the first round out of a "dry" can is louder without a wetting agent.
Anybody know if that's true and if it applies to all size/caliber cans?
 
Yes it is a small monocore titanium suppressor. I did not think it would be very great BUT on a P322 or Mark IV LITE pistol it is hearing safe to shoot. I am very sensitive to noise and find it great to shoot those two 22LR pistols without hearing protection.

I had the barrel on a Rossi Rio Bravo threaded to accept a suppressor. It has an 18" barrel and with the little short suppressor is as quiet as a air rifle when shooting subsonic ammo. The nice thing about it is the ability to shoot 22 Short ammo and that increases capacity in the firearm. Shooting high velocity ammo is much louder with the sonic crack and is a great demo for people new to suppressors.

On an M&P 15-22 or M&P 15-22P it is not so great as the semi-auto makes a lot more noise than the lever action when the bolt opens. A Ruger 10/22 is a lot better but still not as nice as the lever action. A 5.56 rifle can is much better on these platforms.

The bad thing about this monocore suppressor is that it gets dirty and requires cleaning every 200 rounds. I have been using an anti-seize on the inside of the suppressor to help with the disassembly.
I appreciate it! I really like the small size and didn’t realize it was titanium!!! huge plus. I wanted to use it on a Mark VI upper that I was going to have shorten and treaded.
 
I wanted to use it on a Mark VI upper that I was going to have shorten and treaded.
This would be easier.
https://volquartsen.com/inventory_configurations/5950?clearance=1
Still a firearm, so transfer fee.
How much was the chop and thread?


And, Yes, an ablative material inside the can will help with not just the first shot, but all shots while it’s in there cooking off. The trick is to not use so much that a bore obstruction occurs in the baffle stack. There are many things that will work, some better than others, some less messy than others. I use water. I pour a very small amount in the muzzle of the can and shake it before draining all the water back out. The little bit that remains seems to work very well at impressing any spectators. There isn’t any extra smell, and water is easy to apply. I rarely used it past the first shot, and don’t bother with it anymore.

And super-sonic rifles and such do not like anything in the can. It needs that volume, all of it.
Keep these types dry!

Suppressed shooting is slightly dirtier than not. I always bring some baby wipes for afterwards, rather than drag that shmutz through my truck.

I think y’all are going to like it!:)
 
I have a LOT of Volquartsen parts in my Ruger. IF I had it to do over again, I would just get a Volquartsen pistol instead of updating the Ruger.
 
This would be easier.
https://volquartsen.com/inventory_configurations/5950?clearance=1
Still a firearm, so transfer fee.
How much was the chop and thread?


And, Yes, an ablative material inside the can will help with not just the first shot, but all shots while it’s in there cooking off. The trick is to not use so much that a bore obstruction occurs in the baffle stack. There are many things that will work, some better than others, some less messy than others. I use water. I pour a very small amount in the muzzle of the can and shake it before draining all the water back out. The little bit that remains seems to work very well at impressing any spectators. There isn’t any extra smell, and water is easy to apply. I rarely used it past the first shot, and don’t bother with it anymore.

And super-sonic rifles and such do not like anything in the can. It needs that volume, all of it.
Keep these types dry!

Suppressed shooting is slightly dirtier than not. I always bring some baby wipes for afterwards, rather than drag that shmutz through my truck.

I think y’all are going to like it!:)
So much to learn with the Hush Hush Cans!
 
I have a LOT of Volquartsen parts in my Ruger. IF I had it to do over again, I would just get a Volquartsen pistol instead of updating the Ruger.
Was thinking that too! my FFL here charges $40 per firearm transfer but at $140 for that upper … cheaper than having it cut & threaded
 
Being a monocore you will get a lot of first round pop.

I would choose something else like a Thunderbeast TakeDown or a DA Mask.
was free with the purchase. I’ll eventually get the Banish .22 or another brand. Very new to silencers so I don’t know any of the brands or technology of suppressor. but will learn eventually
 
I have the 22K. IMO, it works very well with my S&W M&P 22 Compact pistol. It doesn't affect POI or group size, and it makes subs hearing safe. It's also short and light, so it doesn't affect the balance of the pistol.

The only issue I'm having is that I cannot for the life of me get it apart to clean with the star key and a strap wrench. I would really hate to throw channel locks on it, even padded. Any suggestions?
 
I have the 22K. IMO, it works very well with my S&W M&P 22 Compact pistol. It doesn't affect POI or group size, and it makes subs hearing safe. It's also short and light, so it doesn't affect the balance of the pistol.

The only issue I'm having is that I cannot for the life of me get it apart to clean with the star key and a strap wrench. I would really hate to throw channel locks on it, even padded. Any suggestions?

I would suggest trying to take it apart while it is warm. Once apart and clean, coat inside with a good anti-seize. I use stuff I purchased at McMaster-Carr. I also take it apart frequently with no more than 200-rounds fired.
IMG_0675.jpg IMG_0674.jpg
 
I would suggest trying to take it apart while it is warm. Once apart and clean, coat inside with a good anti-seize. I use stuff I purchased at McMaster-Carr. I also take it apart frequently with no more than 200-rounds fired.
View attachment 1124600 View attachment 1124601
Maybe that's what I need to be doing with my Dead Air Mask. I can get it apart for cleaning, but it's a bear when the innards are all gunked up.
 
Best thing I've used in my suppressors, made using 6061 tubes and 7075 baffles, is Silaramic high temperature brake grease. Not my idea - another member on NFATalk forums came up with it and a few of us tried it out, finding it performs incredibly well in terms of adhering to the blast baffle, and making cleaning a breeze even after a couple of hundred shots. I put about a 1mm thick layer in the blast chamber, then half that for the next couple, then barely any on the rest, like a paint layer thick, for my .22lr cans. One of the best features is that it produces no smell. White lithium grease stinks. The purple high temperature brake grease makes me nauseus after firing a few shots, though it otherwise works fairly well. Silaramic sticks almost like glue against the pressure of subsonic .22lr, but wipes off easily.

Stuff is a bit hard to find. This link shows me some in the 9oz tub today, but the price looks suspiciously low. The 5oz tube on Amazon is triple that.

https://www.carid.com/crc/crc-silaramic-ceramic-brake-system-grease-4471344100.html
 
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