Better for Recoil Reduction: Rubber or Wood Grips?

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Aim1

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I know some say that a tiny piece of rubber over a backstrap isn't going to help but perhaps the rubbers overall properties allow it to absorb/dissipate recoil better than wood grips but I am not sure. The rubber grip companies sure seem to think they help and the rubber burner chevrons to help in absorbing recoil in plastic stocked guns like Benelli and Thompson/Center that use these energy burners seem to actually work they are a tiny piece of rubber.


Better for Recoil Reduction: Rubber or Wood Grips?
 
The very nature of the material clearly supports that the rubber will absorb more energy than wood. However, felt recoil is also affected by the grip / butt pad design. Be that as it may, I wouldn't consider shooting a wood grip-bedecked 460V or even a hot-loaded 44 Mag for very long. :eek:
 
Fit is going to be far more important than material here.
That's really the crux of the issue that we wood grip lovers try to make. I don't think ti's the material so much as the fit to the shooter's hand.

My example:
My S&W L frame 357's get Nill Grips on them. The reason I went with Nill is that I'd tried rubber and wood from another company. Plain and simple, they all felt great in the hand, until I pulled the trigger. Then the gun rocked around in my hand and beat the hell out of the web of my hand, and left it aching for days. Nill Grips have a variety of sizes and most importantly for me, they offer grips that cover the backstrap. I have large hands, and having a grip that fills my hand properly so the gun isn't rocking around is very important. I also have boney fingers that give me a bit weaker grip than some folks my size. Having a properly fit grip that helps keep the gun stationary also helps keep the knuckle on my middle finger from being beat up.

On the other end, my 460 magnum came with a full size rubber grip that leaves the backstrap closed, and fills my hand. That is an extreme example of recoil, and the shock running through the gun still makes my hands hurt a little after a rapid fire exercise, but my hand never seems to experience much for lasting effects. I want to put some wood grips on it also, but honestly the rubber grips just happen to fit my hand well. I'd like to do it also purely as an experiment for thread topics such as this one, but the ones I want are over $200, so I don't see myself doing it right now.

Both my 10mm pistols have laminate or G10 on them. I don't start getting a sore hand with full power ammo until about the 200 round mark, but part of that is due to the weight of the gun.

The most important part is that whatever size person you are, a gun that fits your hand is going to do the best job of mitigating recoil and keeping your hand in good condition. I don't really believe the true benefit is in the pliability of the material, but in that a properly fit grip fills the voids where a gun can beat on you.

There is certainly such a thing as a grip that is too large also, but in my experience this usually leads to poor control of the gun as a person may have a less than optimal grip to hold on to the firearm. Then the gun can be rocking around anyway. This is what my ex-girlfriend experienced when she wanted to shoot one of my larger guns. My hands were much larger than hers (she was a foot shorter, so proportions), so she had a hard time holding onto the grip I'd put on the gun.

Rubber grips that FIT your hand can be alright for shooting, and there is certainly a bit of benefit to them being tacky feeling and pliable for those that need help holding onto the gun. However, I think some folks apply them as a band aide and pick the same size grip, which is really negating much of the benefit. If you want to see if the grip of a revolver is suited to you, ignore how it "feels". Unload and safety check the gun. Grip it one handed as if you were ready to fire. Then with your off hand, push on the muzzle of the gun. If you feel it moving on the web of your hand, I'd say the grip is too small and will likely rub that part of your hand raw. If you feel the grip of your pinky or ring finger giving, the grip may be too big. For semiautos, I fund trigger finger contact to be a good indicator. If your finger naturally slides through past the first knuckle, I think your grip is too small, and you are going to have a hell of a time keeping your finger where it belongs. This will probably lead to a reduction in accuracy or speed as you are readjusting. If the first pad of your finger, and in my opinion the crease of your first knuckle, is resting on the trigger, you are probably ok. I have never experienced a semiauto too large for me, though the Dessert Eagle felt pretty blocky. That may be due to the lack of meat on my fingers though.

Just my take on it.
 
I am a firm believer in Wood is for show and Rubber is for go. My only revolver with wood grips is my Ruger Blackhawk that never gets used. All my S&W wear some type of rubber grip. All my N-frames wear the same grip. They are comfortable, and give good grip in nearly all conditions cold, hot, wet or dry.
 
Grip fit is the main issue (as noted). I enjoy shooting my SBH 44mag with the stock wooden plow handle grips, plinking or full power barn-burners. (There is a technique to the hold, though)
I have a Hogue monogrip, no finger grooves, on my 625JM because the stock wooden JM grip allowed the bottom knuckle of my trigger finger to ride against the top of the wood in a painful way. I guess my hand is not the same size as JMs!
I have rubber double diamond grips on my DW 1911, though g10 or wood would work just fine there.
I just got a pair of cz oem rubber grips for my CZ97b— the stock aluminum grips were hard on my hands with extended shooting—more about the texture than the size. The rubber oem’s fit my hand nicely and are extremely comfortable to hold (at least in dry-fire so far).

Recoil reduction was not a factor in my choice of any grip. Fit is the determining factor for ME.
 
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I know some say that a tiny piece of rubber over a backstrap isn't going to help but perhaps the rubbers overall properties allow it to absorb/dissipate recoil better than wood grips but I am not sure.

My experience with many S&W revolvers is that rubber grips are much more comfortable to shoot.

I wouldn't consider shooting a wood grip-bedecked 460V or even a hot-loaded 44 Mag for very long. :eek:

That is an extreme example of recoil,

Buy a 329pd. They come with both wood and rubber. There is no doubt that the rubber grip is considerably better at reducing the pain felt. I have fired a few hundred 500 mag/460 in a day with no issue. I fired 50-100 with my 329 once and my hand bruised. Now it wears X frame grips. Men who are handgun hunters have fired a partial cylinder with the factory wood grips and tapped out. Everyone can make it 6 rds with the factory rubber.

All that said I despise the way a rubber grip looks. I also dont like how they get slippery when you sweat or they get wet. For that gun though I like them.
 
A fatter grip spreads the recoil over a greater area of my palm which lessens the perceived recoil. So to me the grip design makes a bigger difference than the grip material.
 
Buy a 329pd.
NOPE!
There is no doubt that the rubber grip is considerably better at reducing the pain felt. I have fired a few hundred 500 mag/460 in a day with no issue. I fired 50-100 with my 329 once and my hand bruised. Now it wears X frame grips.
I can buy that on a really heavily recoiling gun like a 329. I swore off Airweights. My 460 magnum has a 5 inch barrel, so it recoils a bit more than some, but I'd rather shoot it with a wood grip than ANY 329 with any grip.
 
460 shooter and mikeinor got it right.

The Karl Nil grips are wider and spread the recoil impulse over more surface area in the web of the hand. Any wide, well-crafted, good fitting, hand-filling grip will do this. Some will be a joy to shoot and look fantastic on the gun. Some are ugly as sin. A pair of Karl Nil grips will set you back $165 to start. Pachmayr rubbers are $45.


Both are wide and disperse the recoil impulse over a larger area of the hand. It just depends on what your wallet and aesthetics can tolerate.
 
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I have switched to rubber grips all of my centerfire revolvers. My grip isn't what it used to be even with exercise and I find them easier to grip than wooden grips now. The nice thing is I have found some recoil reduction also. I have only switched one semi-auto pistol to rubber and it is a 22 LR gun. Of course recoil isn't a problem with it but I find I can shoot better with it now than with it's pretty wooden grips.
 
The very nature of the material clearly supports that the rubber will absorb more energy than wood. However, felt recoil is also affected by the grip / butt pad design.


^^^^ This.

Which material has a better durometer to cushion and be able to cushion repeatedly is objective.

How it feels in the hand is subjective.
 
Rubber, and lots of it!

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I gave up my Ruger Redhawk because I could not find rubber grips that fit my short and stubby fingers. For some reason, the larger the frame, the larger the grips, it is as if the grips are sized for looks, and not for human hands. I find that true of knives, the shorter the blade, the shorter the handle, as if only tiny people use knives with three inch blades. Folding knives with blades in the three to four inch range, tend to have longer handles, for the same blade length, than fixed blades, because the blade has to fit into the handle.
 
Rubber grips reduce recoil. Anyone claiming wood grips reduce recoil are deluding themselves because they prefer the appearance of wood. My 357 magnum came with wooden grips and when I replaced them with rubber Pachmayr grips the difference was night and day.
 
Wood is pretty but rubber helps more with recoil. Tried both on several magnum revolvers, including my present GP100 357, and prefer the Hogue grips that are now standard.
 
The best comfort for recoil regardless of material is proper fit to your hand. IMO front weight helps too. I've shot 44 mag in 4 inch and it bucks quite a bit. I find the 6.5 ported is very nice and the 7 inch nonported is nice too. The straighter back the recoil the better. I can shoot the 6.5 ported all day with no ill effects. Having an XXL hand the large frames are best.
 
...whereas my SBH .44 pretty much wears Hogue rubber, all the time . . .

Seems like a very personal thing, but I always put Hogue grips on whatever I shoot,
when I can get them.
 
Revolvers, rubber. Auto's, Alu or Wood.

Revolvers are just plain violent to me. Anything that soaks up the hand numbing hit, is great.

With auto's, a large part of recoil control is the pistol sliding in my hand. Aggressive, sharp solid grips are best to limit that. A grip exercising tool and a 35-50 pound dumbell helps even more. A heavy arm soaks up more recoil.
 
This 1911 wears factory rubber. Can't say it really helps mitigate recoil, however.
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Revolvers, rubber. Auto's, Alu or Wood.

Revolvers are just plain violent to me. Anything that soaks up the hand numbing hit, is great.

With auto's, a large part of recoil control is the pistol sliding in my hand. Aggressive, sharp solid grips are best to limit that. A grip exercising tool and a 35-50 pound dumbell helps even more. A heavy arm soaks up more recoil.
 
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