Case gages

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What I can not understand is why it won't chamber after the second pass through the taper crimp die. Hopefully the case gauge will help.
 
What I can not understand is why it won't chamber after the second pass through the taper crimp die. Hopefully the case gauge will help.
That depends on where the brass is rubbing the chamber wall.

Taper crimp die only reduces case mouth part of brass down to about 0.100" below.

If brass is rubbing the chamber wall below case mouth, no amount of taper crimping will help the round chamber further. And at some point, applying additional taper crimp will actually start to bulge the case neck below the crimp.

With overly expanded 9mm Major brass that could bulge near the case base, even after being run through the resizing die, brass may not pass the case gage as bottom of resizing die may not reduce the bottom of case base.
 
What I can not understand is why it won't chamber after the second pass through the taper crimp die. Hopefully the case gauge will help.
Taper "crimps" only remove the bell, that's all they are designed to do, if an unhealthy amount of taper "crimp" "fixes" a chambering issue, there is generally a problem that can be fixed.

@LiveLife has it.
 
Mine will accept a case that is .391 at the base and have it fall out, .3915 needs a tiny bit of help to come out? .392 is stuck, which matches that EMP chamber, .392 can be iffy, .393 gets jammed up. So they worked for me.
SAAMI max at the base of a 9mm cartridge is .391, which is what a Wilson gage is cut for, so you're spot on with your observations. Your EMP chamber at .392” is just slightly slightly over SAAMI minimum for a 9mm chamber, so your choice of a Wilson gage is a smart one. The Dillon gage, and possibly others, will pass rounds that wouldn’t plunk in your EMP. I know you already know all of this, but it might help others understand the difference in gages. Besides, it makes me feel smart to write it down. ;)
 
I've got Wilson case gauges and EGW case gages and one other .... read ones, name escapes me qt the moment.

Anyways, I just seem to prefer the EGW case gages.

Anyone else had issues with their Wilson case gauges rusting and pitting?
 
I gauge 100% because most of my bulk pistol ammo is for IDPA and USPSA where there is no alibi for shooter equipment failure. I use a L.E. Wilson .45 gauge and a Lyman 9mm because Wilson was out of stock when I reequipped.
I have an EGW which is so tight as to be of little use with cast or coated bullets.
I once shot a 9mm Miller Major with long loaded bullets, so I had a gauge recut with the same throating reamer as the barrel.

My gauge fails and doubtfuls go for practice unless there is some gross fault like a split case or sheared bullet.
I have a spare .45 barrel I can use to check on that, but not a 9mm, and I do not care to dismantle a gun for plunk.
 
I've got Wilson case gauges and EGW case gages and one other .... read ones, name escapes me qt the moment.

Anyways, I just seem to prefer the EGW case gages.

Anyone else had issues with their Wilson case gauges rusting and pitting?
I'm kinda surprised case guages are not blued to help protect them. I never had the rust issue in San Diego, that I have here in Memphis.
 
They may not be blued for a number of reasons. It may change the final dimensions of the guage, and it would add to the cost.

chris
 
I use a Shockbottle gauge block for 9/40/45 rounds, but it’s 5x the cost that the OP wanted to spend. Still, it’s nice to gauge 100 at a time quickly, and then can transfer them to the 100 round plastic boxes in a single flip. For the few that don’t pass, they become live fire practice rounds unless they’re beyond safe.
I did pay a bit extra for the anodized version of the gauge. It is Al, so, it wouldn’t rust in the first place but I thought the lubricity would be nice. I do oil my steel gauges, but suspect the oil layer is thicker than a steel coating would be. Good luck.
 
They may not be blued for a number of reasons. It may change the final dimensions of the guage, and it would add to the cost.

chris
Way to many precision machinist tools are blued for that to be reasonable. Cost is always a factor and most likely the reason. Wilson is no where near the size of Lyman or hornady which cost would be minimal.
 
I have a Wilson case gauge for every caliber I load. No rust . Very low humidity here in southern Utah.
 
What I can not understand is why it won't chamber after the second pass through the taper crimp die. Hopefully the case gauge will help.

A case gauge won’t help the round fit a given chamber but if it fails a case gauge the likelihood it fits an in spec chamber goes down.

It more of a measuring tool than a forming tool, if that makes sense.
 
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