Cleaning an old ruger 22 auto

[doubleh]

First thing, I have a MK III. Second thing is I'm rather old and forgetful as the two conditions go together. My solution was to keep the manual that came with the gun and it's on the workbench any time I tear the gun down. If I need it, I got it.

 

[roval]

I bought an old mark 2 a few years ago. when I got it I watched a YouTube e video on how to disassemble it and then cleaned it and had no problems with reassembly watching the video several times right before doing so. I don't think it was ever taken apart. I had to use a rubber mallet quite a bit to remove the barrel from the frame. I haven't taken it apart since then but I know where to look for the instructions . I do brush the bolt face with solvent and clean the barrel and pick out the crud in the action after every use.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

I give my Mark II a takedown once a year for detail cleaning. I re-read my manual and my range notebook before attempting disassembly. And I will use cleaning rod and brush to clean from breech to muzzle. Cleaning includes removing the firing pin and cleaning it and its groove in the bolt. I re-read my manual and my range notebook before attempting reassembly. I have the full coverage Pachmeyr grips that require removal for disassembly so it is a once-a-year ritual. If I wanted an easy-pleasy quick takedown gun, I would not have bought a Ruger Mark II. It is what I call a semi-permanent assembly.

My routine cleaning after a range session is
Lock the bolt open.
Swab the bolt face, barrel breech face, and front inside of the receiver with a Q-tip dipped in Hoppes #9.
Let it soak awhile.
Then take a bamboo skewer whittled sharp on one end, wedge on the other, and pick the fouling out of the corners of the bolt face and receiver/barrel junction and scrape fouling off flat surfaces.
Swab the loose crud out with a patch over the Q-tip.
Scrub the bolt face and breech face with a GI "M16" toothbrush.
Wipe out the open breech area with a lightly oiled patch.
Pull a dry patch from chamber out the muzzle.
Put a drop of non-gumming oil on either side of the rear of the bolt and cycle the bolt a few times.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

You're kidding me, right?

I suppose you mean to detail strip, not merely disassemble.

No Kidding . All you have to remember is where the Hammer Strut is. You dry fire, pull down on the take down lever, pull the rear pin and mainspring housing out. Check the hammer strut to make sure that its not sitting on top of the sear spring retaining pin, pull the bolt out. Tap the back of the upper with a soft mallet and remove it from the frame. CLEAN GUN.
Put barrel back on tap with soft mallet to get it back in place. Check that the hammer strut is resting on the sear spring retaining pin and not sitting on top of it. put bolt back in gun. Put rear pin back in gun. turn gun over in hand. make sure the hammer strut in pointing to the rear so that in will go back into the main spring cup. Pull the trigger and rotate the main spring housing into the grip and close the take down latch. YOUR DONE.
Now how mane times did I say Hammer Strut and Sear Spring Retaining Pin? If you know about these two things it makes the gun so easy to take apart.
Now the 1911, you have more part to remove and put back in. And if you don't know where the barrel link goes when putting it back together..... But once you learn both systems they are both easy to take apart and put back together.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Chickens and fences. LOL

Thanks for a good laugh this morning!

I bet you will remember what those parts are from now on.

 

[scaatylobo]

I have one of these (standard model, to be precise) that is just a mess. The inside is filthy and I can hear grit inside when I cycle it, and malfunctions have become more frequent lately. I fire about 150 rounds a week through it, and have been for a long time. My normal post-range cleaning process involves brush and patch down the barrel (the wrong way), digging out what gunk I can through the ejection port with solvent-soaked q-tips, lube in the working parts, and an exterior wipe-down with oil. A few years ago I took it apart for a thorough cleaning, and was only able to get it back together with the help of youtube after an embarrassingly long time with a considerable amount of profanity. So disassembly is out- even whatever "easy way" anyone wants to share . Not doing it again unless I actually break it. I was thinking about removing the grips, locking the slide open, and soaking it in some type of solvent in a bucket or the like for a while to maybe loosen up a lot of the garbage in it and then blowing out what I can with compressed air. Does anyone else do this? If so, what solvent would be good? Also open to other ideas that don't involve taking it apart.

SIMPLE ,go to YouTube and watch how its done .

Step by step,and almost as easy as a normal pistol,when you see it done correctly.

 

[stchman]

It’s easier to disassemble and reassemble then a 1911.

While I don't agree with that and both guns are unnecessarily difficult to take apart and put back together, they're both pretty easy.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

It sure is harder to put an idiot scratch on a MK than it is a 1911.

 

[rskent]

It’s easier to disassemble and reassemble then a 1911.

Thing is, I have stripped down 1911’s enough that I think (never tried) I could do it blind folded. I strip down and clean my 22/45 maybe maybe once a year. I simply forget how, and have to look it up. Its not hard to do, just hard to remember. They say the memory is the second thing to go.

 

[mljdeckard]

I inherited my dad's old Standard model, which is the first gun I ever shot.

I will admit to using youtube to help me get he dangle right.

Replace the recoil spring assembly, and keep an extra on hand, they are like eight bucks. I need to get a few new magazines for it.

 

[bassjam]

Does anyone else do this? If so, what solvent would be good? Also open to other ideas that don't involve taking it apart.

I just remove the grips on mine and spray it down really good with a can of brake parts cleaner. I've never tried to dissemble my Mark I or Buckmark, a good spray down like this a couple times a year seems to keep them working great.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

"I just remove the grips on mine and spray it down really good with a can of brake parts cleaner."

I did that with a relative's .25 Colt Junior with decades of congealed oil, lint, and dirt in its innerd workings. I did not dare detail strip the gun even tho' I could find the manual on the 'net and had a parts breakdown in a Numrich Gun Parts catalog. "A man's got to know his limitations."--Harry Callahan

I made a point of doing it on the back deck with lotsa fresh air.