Couple new rifle projects, short range blaster, and long range hunter.

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Looks like your moving right along. Linseed makes a beautiful finish but it takes some time and work. Well depending on how shiny you want it. I thought about the Boyd's stock too but found an older used walnut stuck that needed some love so I went with it. I don't think there's anything wrong with a Boyd's stock either.

I thought about using some Teak Oil for a Walnut Model 70 stock I've been working on If I don't like it I can cover it with Poly in 3 days.https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/refinish-or-touchup-model-70-stock-project.818346/ Stock is ready for finish. It's been a pain having to make a floor plate for it. Teak Oil is more temporary too. Not sure which way I'll go with it.

Got the bedding done today and the recoil pad. I went with a Hogue recoil pad (not the slip on). Not that I needed the extra padding but the price was good and it's a decent pad or the price.

How are you liking the 995? Man I wish they would just make a double stack for that thing. Heck they don't even have to go proprietary on the mags! just adapt it to fit Glock Mags or something! To me it's the biggest take away from the gun.
 
That looks good WnC. I did pretty much the same as your doin with my howa 6.5
I started to get a boyds full checked and finished, then found an older S&W stock for about 1/2 the price.
Where did you get your hogue pad from? I just need something to cap the end of my stock, tho i was thinking of trying to get a red pad and spacer to match the forend tip and grip cap.....

the teak oil ive used mostly on...duh duh dun....teak.
it worked pretty well for what i wanted. Trick being to basically single shot it, soak your work piece thurougly for bout 15mins wipe it down and leave it sit for a day before polishing. Trying to do multiple coats just made a mess for me. Ive also mostly dont bow or pistol grips in Teak so they were pretty small and I polished them pretty well before i got bored. With Teak oil you really need to have finished all the sanding before doing the oil, with linseed ive sanded it in and let it dry like that to help seal pores some.

Ive got a stock at home i redid with teak i can post a picture of later.

I'm really digging the 995, its quick, accurate, and a blast to shoot. It also has digested every 9mm round i can find no problem, including some 147 powder puff loads that wont cycle my witness ps with an 10lb spring. Recoil with those is very sluggish but it gets the job done.
I really like the cx4 nockoff ati stock, especially the larger trigger guard allowing for a more reasonably sized trigger blade.
I hear you bout making them a double stack, that would be a nice feature. Usless to me unless the mags were specific to the 995s. Any mag that can be used in a pistol must be 10rnds or less by state law, even if you only own a rifle that uses it.
 
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That looks awesome! that's the look I was going for but it didn't turn out that way. went full bore and it's shiny but looks good.

Did you get the recoil pad figured out?
 
No, not yet, was gonna steal it from my 30-06s as i want to add a slightly longer pad, but this stocks but is taller.Id also like to get a plain red pad so i can add a maple spacer to make it match the other accents, but im having a hard time finding a 1" pad like that...and i need the extra length :s

.
 
So here we are final fit is done, just need the recoil pad. Hopefully i dont screw up that install too badly, its been a while since i did one.
IMG_20170305_093942382.jpg IMG_20170305_093918228.jpg

I noticed when i put his gun with a couple of my others that is actually a pretty large rifle. With a pad its going to end up almost as long as my abolt in 7mag. It went from one of my shortest to being third longest lol.
 
Interesting article in Handloader this month on an eponymous .257 Wildcat in which the new cartridge, just the 6.5 Creedmore necked down to .257", is compared to the Bob and the Savage 250 AI. Interestingly, the summary is that the .257 Wildcat is just about as good as the 250 AI but easier to form since it's a necking only. The 250 AI looks quite tasty!
 
Oooooooooooo I would shoot the S*** outta THAT!!!!!
Well if your ever out here your welcome to lol!

Speaking of shooting I recon we will get a range report!
Range report might actually be this week, if the kids let me load a pressure ladder. I still need to get my muzzy square for Lanai this weekend so ill need to sneak out to the range for a little while. Ill take the .250 too if i have ammo ready.

Interesting article in Handloader this month on an eponymous .257 Wildcat in which the new cartridge, just the 6.5 Creedmore necked down to .257", is compared to the Bob and the Savage 250 AI. Interestingly, the summary is that the .257 Wildcat is just about as good as the 250 AI but easier to form since it's a necking only. The 250 AI looks quite tasty!

Case capacity and shape are almost identical for the 6.5 and 250 ai. I'm actually pretty sure you could just run a CM case thru a full length .250AI die and get a useable case. The neck would be reduced, front of the shoulder pushed back, but i think the rear.of the shoulder would be pretty much the same place.

Supposedly forming from .243 is about as easy.

Im using a neck die right now but when i can afford it ill buy a full length and try it.

And for the time being i think ive got my recoil pad situation figgured out. Ill update that after i grab some pictures.
 
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Supposedly forming from .243 is about as easy.

Im using a neck die right now but when i can afford it ill buy a full length and try it.

And for the time being i think ive got my recoil pad situation figgured out. Ill update that after i grab some pictures.
Wouldn't the .243 mean more trimming?
 
Yeah bout 1/4" i think, figgure cheap little 2" chop saw and a jig make short work of it....still tho .250 brass is cheap (ish), cows cheap, ive got a ton of 231, and I like having the correct headstamp ....so I'll probably stick with .250 cases.

Ive got this for non bullet fire forming so i can do it pretty much when ever i want. IMG_20170306_075330792.jpg
 
Hey, I made one of those by accident when I backed my pick up over the sewer clean out stub on the side of the house
 
So i was wrong bout the 6.5cm vs the .250ai. in my head the rear of the shoulder was farther back on the .250, but it's actually slightly farther forward. The .250s a couple thou smaller in diameter at all measurement points also.

Which bears out the water capacity difference 50.5 or so for the .250 and 52ish for the CM.....now that I actually think about it.

Anyway got a ladder loaded with 115 bergers and h4350. Now to find time to shoot them......
IMG_20170306_112800669.jpg
 
Yeah bout 1/4" i think, figgure cheap little 2" chop saw and a jig make short work of it....still tho .250 brass is cheap (ish), cows cheap, ive got a ton of 231, and I like having the correct headstamp ....so I'll probably stick with .250 cases.

Ive got this for non bullet fire forming so i can do it pretty much when ever i want.View attachment 231069
.22-250 brass may be something to try too, neck it up, blow it out, and dremel the 22 out. It's a pretty common round anyway, if I can come up with enough of it to send you the extra I'll let you know but between the .22 I already have and the future project of a .250 AI for the youngest girl, (thanks to a certain someone making me curious enough to actually look into it) I make no promises as of right now....
 
That is a really nice looking rifle. Well Done! Looking forward to your range report.
 
Hahaha....wierd i wonder who.....and blame the barrel seller its his fault....yes hiiizzzz fault, thats what ill tell the wife.

I'd consider getting .22-250 brass as well to play with. I see it amd loaded ammo cheap here sometimes. Guys buy them then shoot, and loose, a few pigs and get rid of the guns. Usually ammos mostly still loaded but sometimes can get just the brass.

I appreciate the offer of cases, but it sounds like youll need them :p:rofl:


Thanks Bob, soon i hope....still need to put a pad on the gun....i haz ideahz.....
 
i shoot the hornady 117 gr sst in my rem 722 in .257 roberts at a little over 3000 fps with no pressure and its a deer killer, as your 250 AI will be. i,m going to try 90 serria HPBT,s at 3300 fps for varmites. i think factory loads for both the 250-3000 and the roberts are rather weak due to older rifles, but in modern rifles can be improved. this doe was shot at about 140 yards. NICE JOB on your rifle. eastbank.
 

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Thats a sweet rifle! Nice doe too!
I agree, the best "standard" Bob loads are way under powered for modern guns. I think the .250 might suffer even worse because it was chambered in levers and even the old savage 340/840?....one of those models.

Hornady atleast offers a reasonable Bob round, but really its a handloaders proposition.


So, lemme get my pigin on....

Ho! Brudahs! I went figguh out what fo do fo duh recoil pad...fo now atleast...Checkem out! I figguh, since I won Kanak, wut better fo my gun den won rubbah slippah!!!!

And duhkine spaceah, stay one Spong Bob face mask!


Translation..... Figgured id just do what ive done before in this situation. Buy a 99cent pair of rubber slippers and stick it on the gun till i get the pad i want. This time i wanted to see what it would look like with a wood toned spacer, cheap option, Sponge Bob Square pants face mask (hate sponge bob) thats lamintated wood of some sort.

For the real deal ill likely use a pachmayr old english in red. For the spacer i have a piece of maple from a bow riser i started to make, ill rip and grind a spacer from that.

Ill grab better pictures tomorrow in the sun....the recoil pad just tickled me so much i had to take some tonight. IMG_20170307_184200294.jpg IMG_20170307_183904901.jpg
 
Small range report.....
Initial groups from the gun look pretty good.

The loads are h4350 behind a berger 115.

My normal place to shoot is only open on the weekends or holidays so i shot at a different location which only allows for about 90yds.

Anyway poor condition, rickety press board shooting table, my poor technique and rain, still didnt keep the gun from producing acceptable accuracy. If i shot them all at the same target without adjusting the sights, i think id have had a group of 30rnds inside of an inch and a half counting a couple oops' on my part.

I had some of my other guns out, including my 6.5g with its new 100grn balistics, it seems to like them. Down side is i had 5 targets printed and managed to tear them up pretty good before i grabed pictures.

First group i pinched the case on the lower round trying to toss it into the action and close it. Dunno if thats the cause of the flyer or if i jist screwed up.
IMG_20170309_163502509.jpg

Two groups of 5 shots second on top is after correction. 3 or 4 shots in the top hole, 1(but possibly 2) caught the top hole from the previous group of shots.
IMG_20170309_163456226.jpg

And final group after correction. The 4 just high of center one slightly right of them. The other 5 are my first shots with the 6.5G
IMG_20170309_163451438.jpg

These were also all .5 grn incremental increases from 40-42.5grn. No pressure signs so ill continue from there AFTER i grab chrono data.

And my finalized sighting of the grendel since it was there....
IMG_20170309_163506678.jpg


All in all this was a pretty good hour and a half worth of shooting....only downside is my muzzys scope was defective, and i fly tomorrow, so ill have to get it sighted in the am.
 
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Thanks guys, Im happy so far.
I found that the shorter cases are getting caught against the upper corner of the right bolt race on the way out of the chamber. Its putting a scratch on the rounds and sticking the action for a split second. Ill either need to take the barrel off or try get in there with a small piece of sand paper to break the edge.
 
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