I took my newly acquired S&W 19-3 out for a test run this morning. It was shooting great at about 10 yds. sometimes hitting the same hole. After about 50 rds., I pushed on the cylinder latch and the cylinder wouldn't open. I can pull the hammer half back and the cylinder will spin freely but, when I try to open it, it only moves about an 1/8". Help! What's wrong? I've got 6 spent shells in the cylinder and can't get it open. I don't want to force anything. Anyone have any ideas?
Cylinder won't open, HELP!
- Thread starter Bo
- Start date
- Status
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Extractor rod is coming unscrewed.
Pull the hammer back to where the cylinder will turn, then turn it backward while trying to hold pressure against the side of the ejector rod.
What you need to do is screw it back in far enough to allow the cylinder latch to push the locking pins in all the way.
Once you get it open, you need to Blue LockTight the ejector rod back in the cylinder assembly. Then tighten with a pair of pliers while useing a strip of leather to protect the rod from the pliers.
rcmodel
Pull the hammer back to where the cylinder will turn, then turn it backward while trying to hold pressure against the side of the ejector rod.
What you need to do is screw it back in far enough to allow the cylinder latch to push the locking pins in all the way.
Once you get it open, you need to Blue LockTight the ejector rod back in the cylinder assembly. Then tighten with a pair of pliers while useing a strip of leather to protect the rod from the pliers.
rcmodel
xring44
Member
Extractor rod is coming unscrewed.
Pull the hammer back to where the cylinder will turn, then turn it backward while trying to hold pressure against the side of the ejector rod.
What you need to do is screw it back in far enough to allow the cylinder latch to push the locking pins in all the way.
Once you get it open, you need to Blue LockTight the ejector rod back in the cylinder assembly. Then tighten with a pair of pliers while useing a strip of leather to protect the rod from the pliers.
rcmodel
Yep, I agree with rcmodel
Pull the hammer back to where the cylinder will turn, then turn it backward while trying to hold pressure against the side of the ejector rod.
What you need to do is screw it back in far enough to allow the cylinder latch to push the locking pins in all the way.
Once you get it open, you need to Blue LockTight the ejector rod back in the cylinder assembly. Then tighten with a pair of pliers while useing a strip of leather to protect the rod from the pliers.
rcmodel
Yep, I agree with rcmodel
Phil DeGraves
Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2006
- Messages
- 1,531
I believe that is a reverse thread on the extractor rod.
MedWheeler
Member
Yes, it is, Phil.. same thing on my Taurus 66.. throws me off.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
You said:
It's a left-hand thread on your gun.
rcmodel
Do that and hold the rod from turning.
It's a left-hand thread on your gun.
rcmodel
Matt-J2
Member
The solution to what ails you:
jaydubya
Member
And if you ever let that happen again, I promise you'll be real sorry.
Cordially, Jack
Cordially, Jack
Yes it was the ejector rod. Followed your instructions and it worked. Wrapped a rag around the end of the rod and tighten it with a pair of pliers. From the looks of the end of the rod, I'd say this has happened before. Is this a common problem with 19-3's? If it happens again, should I contact S&W? Thanks for all your help.
Hawk
Member
I'm not so sure it's an issue with 19-3s so much as it's an issue with S&Ws generally. My very first S&W did that 5 minutes after I got it home.
Fortunately, I have a good supply of blue thread locking compound left over from another hobby. Grab some Loctite 242 or similar, apply sparingly and relax. I wouldn't bother to call S&W - I'd suspect they're aware of the issue.
I would stay well clear of red loctite. Note, however, that blue loctite generally comes in a red container. I put this down to basic cussedness on the part of the supplier.
Fortunately, I have a good supply of blue thread locking compound left over from another hobby. Grab some Loctite 242 or similar, apply sparingly and relax. I wouldn't bother to call S&W - I'd suspect they're aware of the issue.
I would stay well clear of red loctite. Note, however, that blue loctite generally comes in a red container. I put this down to basic cussedness on the part of the supplier.
Cougfan2
Member
I've had this happen at some point on every DA revolver I've ever owned until I wised up and checked before and after every range session to make sure the extractor rod was screwed in tight. Make it a habit.
gtmerkley
member
Glad to hear you got it.
MCgunner
Member
Anyone who owns motorcycles has blue loctite in the shop. 
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Please read post #2 again carefully.
You cannot properly tighten it with pliers tight enough to keep it tight. And it IS going to come loose again unless you BLUE LockTight it.
rcmodel
jaybar
Member
Careful - don't shear the aligning pins
Before applying any significant torque to tighten (or loosen) the ejector rod make sure that you insert three empty cases into alternating chambers of the cylinder to absorb the force. The ejector rod screws into the extractor (star). There are 2 very small alignment pins that are designed to keep the extractor lined up with the various chambers. If you apply excessive torque to the ejector rod without having empties in the chambers you can bend or shear the alignment pins.
Before applying any significant torque to tighten (or loosen) the ejector rod make sure that you insert three empty cases into alternating chambers of the cylinder to absorb the force. The ejector rod screws into the extractor (star). There are 2 very small alignment pins that are designed to keep the extractor lined up with the various chambers. If you apply excessive torque to the ejector rod without having empties in the chambers you can bend or shear the alignment pins.
Had the exact same problem with the exact same gun, my 19-3.
Came here and got the same advice. Made a lot of sense but with a piece of leather and pliers I could not screw the ejector rod in or out.
Took it to a smith. Paid him ~$60 to fix it. He said he actually had to send away for some parts. I have no idea which ones. Anyway, ~75 rounds later, mixed .38 and .357, exact same problem.
I just got fed up. I cleaned her up and stuck her in my box o' gun stuff. She looks gorgeous, I won't get rid of her, but she's cottenballed for now.
Came here and got the same advice. Made a lot of sense but with a piece of leather and pliers I could not screw the ejector rod in or out.
Took it to a smith. Paid him ~$60 to fix it. He said he actually had to send away for some parts. I have no idea which ones. Anyway, ~75 rounds later, mixed .38 and .357, exact same problem.
I just got fed up. I cleaned her up and stuck her in my box o' gun stuff. She looks gorgeous, I won't get rid of her, but she's cottenballed for now.
TOGGLELOCK
Member
When (and if) you get your cylinder open. You better watch how you screw your ejector rod tight. You'll need an extractor support tool, orange dummy rounds or empties left in the cylinder as extractor support. Cause if you got an old cylinder with pins under the extractor star, you'll bend your pins without the support tool, orange inert dummy or empty casings. Keeps the extractor star from shifting during tightning. TOGGLELOCK
madcratebuilder
Member
If you own a S&W you should have a ejector rod tool. It clamps on the rod and allows you to tighten to the the proper torque.
Good advice!
Good advice!
TOGGLELOCK
Member
No, we had been talking about older cylinders with pins under the star. Don't bend those small pins. When in doubt, get someone with knowledge to tighten your ejector rod. TOGGLELOCK
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If he had de-greased the threads on the rod & cylinder, and applied Blue LockTight, then tightened it properly, it would not have come loose again.
If I had paid him 60 bucks, I'd be back rattling his cage.
rcmodel
- Status
