Cylinder won't open smoothly

[birdshooter]

I just completed my first trigger job on my 625-8 JM. I followed Jerry's DVD instructions and everything went very well. The action is nice and smooth and the Wolf Springs have lightened things up a bit. I am very pleased.

I have ran into one problem though. Upon reassembly of the revolver I discovered that the cylinder will not open easily. After pushing the cylinder latch forward I have to smack the cylinder with my hand to get it to open.

Anyone have any thought or ideas to help me get this issue solved?

Thanks!

 

[pbearperry]

Maybe the ejector post has backed out a bit and needs to be tightened or something is under the star on the ejector?

 

[BCRider]

Check that the center pin in the recoil shield is coming out to flush or a touch more than flush. If you got a bit of debris or fouling caught in the action and it's limiting the travel of the "L" bracket that carries that pin it'll make the cylinder hard to open.

The other option is that wear on the ejector assembly center shaft is not allowing the front catch to be fully pushed out of the knurled tubular part and that is catching a little.

Some careful study of the situation with light pressure and watching for the initial motion or sticking should point to where the binding is occurring.

And yes, any fouling or debris under the star will produce this as well.

 

[rcmodel]

Make sure you didn't put the two dome head side-plate screws in the wrong holes.

The one that holds the crane in must be put back in the same hole you took it out of.

If you reverse them, the cylinder will be hard to swing open.

It's also possible now, if you forced it open and closed a few times that you have damaged the crane.

It's not unusual to see galding of the metal on the crane where the wrong screw rubbed it too hard.

If there is damage, clean it up with a fine needle file or stone.

rc

 

[birdshooter]

I will check the ejector rod. To tighten, is it righty tighty or is it opposite?

rc, I made very sure that I got the screws back I the correct holes. I labeled them when I removed them but thanks for this thought too.

 

[rcmodel]

Well, loosen the front one again and see if that frees up the crane.

If it does, you have a bur or something on the crane flange dragging on the screw.

The ejector rod is left hand thread.

rc

 

[birdshooter]

Thanks rc! The ejector rod was very loose. I tightened it up and everything is perfect.

I can always count on great knowledge here!

 

[rcmodel]

So, here's some more unsolicited advice.

Take the ejector rod back off.
And take the cylinder release thumb-piece off.

Then, de-grease the threads on everything.

Then apply a tiny drop of BLUE Lock-Tight to the ejector rod, and thumb-piece cap nut threads.

Then reassemble both.

You can thank me later when your ejector rod never gets loose again.

And you don't lose the thumb-piece & cap-nut in the gravel at the range some day!!

rc

 

[birdshooter]

I'm always a sucker for good advice rc. I will do just that.

 

[Walkalong]

And he means tiny, and he means blue. Whatever you do, don't use red.

 

[stu1ritter]

I don't think you want to put loctite blue on the ejector rod. Blue is made for much larger sized threads, over 1/4". You want loctite purple 222, if you want to use loctite at all in that location. Clean the threads with lacquer thinner before using a micro drop of 222 if you really want to. Just use a drill press chuck to grab the ejector rod to loosen and tighten putting empty cases in the charge holes. Best way to do it and they will not come loose. I'd also suggest going over to the S&W Smithing forum and this thread http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/227643-tightening-ejector-rod-revolver.html. I think you will find it enlightening.
Stu

 

[Master Blaster]

Also after you put the loctite on (a tiny bit) let it dry Then reassemble, its loctite not glue, the idea is to keep it from unscrewing not to glue the two pieces together.

 

[rcmodel]

You will be waiting a long time for Lock-Tight to 'dry' in open air.

It is an anaerobic adhesive, meaning it will only cure in the absence of air.

Like inside a threaded joint.

rc

 

[lowercase]

Sure hope you didn't bend the ejector rod.

Forcing a cylinder open (due to a loose ejector rod) will bend one QUICK.

 

[Master Blaster]

My personal procedure is to use as little as possible, letting it dry first before assembling, yes it has to sit for a while but loctite hardens in contact with metal ions. By using little and letting it dry I prevent it from getting into places where I do not want it to go. It also makes it easier to disassemble the parts later if I need to do any other maintenance.

JMHO YMMV

 

[deadeye dick]

Locktite also makes a semi solid blue and red threadlocker. It comes in a tube like lipstick or chapstick and is the same consistency as both. No more drips or runs like the liquid. They also make a tape like plumbers Teflon tape that you can wrap and put aside for future use. Both great products that I use on my motorcycle all the time. Got mine from Fastenal.

 

[BCRider]

A very tiny dab of blue was certainly the go to solution in the past for smaller threads like the ejector rod. But since the new lower strength purple grade was introduced I would suggest that it's worth taking advantage of the new product.

Myself? I wrap the knurling on the ejector with some leather and pinch it a little tighter than I can just by hand using some pliers. Care is taken to ensure that it's only a PINCH and not to hog down on it. By doing that I've not had one come lose and I can just leave the oil on the parts.

The key is to know what is enough. We know that by hand they often come lose. So the idea is to only torque it a little more than what we can get by hand. Err on the side of too little extra and if it comes lose again then use a touch more torque for the next try. But generally by the time they are tightened to roughly twice what we can generate by finger pressure alone it stays put.

 

[Walkalong]

The right tool for the right job. How much holding power you need is up to you to figure out. Go easy with it, you can always go up in strength.

I figure this is a lifetime supply for me.