Digital scales

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Nothing’s wrong with my analog scale (manual scale). I just like to compare measurements. Makes me feel better when analog and digital measurements match.
I do that, too. I think, overall, I use my beam scale more, though.
 
Newbie here, but what would it matter?

As long as your loads are consistent with whatever scale you're using... Isn't consistency the end goal anyway?

Your scale, your notes, your rifle...
What if your scale was involved in a boating accident?

then all your data would be off. I recommend getting a known standard like Gauge Blocks for your calipers and gram weights for your scales. this way, you can use anybody’s reloading station and make the exact load.
 
If you need to use a different scale than you just tune a bit as with any component change the node will move slightly causing the re loader to re aquire it.
Your optimum load doesn't stay exact anyway you look at it.
 
When I went through this a couple years back, someone here told me "two scales is an argument and three scales is a lawsuit."

I use a digital scale in conjunction with an automated powder trickler (RCBS combo unit, $420 at Cabela's), and that's all I use. (This is my rifle ammo.) When I use a case activated powder measure (Lee Auto Drum), I check the first 10 charges on a edding beam scale, average the loads, and if it's within +/- .01 grain (the limit of accuracy for the Auto Drum), I run with it. (This is usually pistol ammo.) Any further efforts on my part lead to increases in blood pressure.
 
National scale that i got on Amazon(yes that evil co.)for $4?.00,not sure exact. Same scale as a hornady.
 
I recommend getting a known standard like Gauge Blocks for your calipers and gram weights for your scales. this way, you can use anybody’s reloading station and make the exact load.

I don't have gauge blocks, but I have different manufacturer's feeler gauges and my dial caliper and digital caliper both read both sets of gauges just as they are marked.
 
I just got a FA DS-750, It seems to be working as advertised. Was under 40 bucks at sportsman's. Had mixed reviews.I check it with another digital scale, and check weights I have and it seems to stay consistent. I tried using a lyman BS500 but for some reason it was way off from my digital. Sometimes .4 gr heavy. I'll get a better quality beam scale when I can afford it. Only thing I dislike is the auto off. But I'm a noob so...
 
I just got a FA DS-750, It seems to be working as advertised. Was under 40 bucks at sportsman's. Had mixed reviews.I check it with another digital scale, and check weights I have and it seems to stay consistent. I tried using a lyman BS500 but for some reason it was way off from my digital. Sometimes .4 gr heavy. I'll get a better quality beam scale when I can afford it. Only thing I dislike is the auto off. But I'm a noob so...

Yeah...I have the same one and it's alright. For quick spot checking, it's just fine. trickling on it is ok, but it likes to stick at times. For example, say the target is 25.6 grains, you're sitting at 25.5 and you start trickling slowly, it will often just sit there then jump up to something like 25.7. I keep it honest with a trusted bar scale.

Another thing that mind does is lose weight off the tare, causing an under charge if you're not careful. I reset the tare because of this but it still gets me from time to time.
 
@jski

What level of precision are you after (down to the individual kernel or +/- 0.1gn)?

How are you using your scale (trickling individual rifle loads or just periodically checking the thrown charge)?
 
Yeah...I have the same one and it's alright. For quick spot checking, it's just fine. trickling on it is ok, but it likes to stick at times. For example, say the target is 25.6 grains, you're sitting at 25.5 and you start trickling slowly, it will often just sit there then jump up to something like 25.7. I keep it honest with a trusted bar scale.

Another thing that mind does is lose weight off the tare, causing an under charge if you're not careful. I reset the tare because of this but it still gets me from time to time.

Yeah I've noticed it's response time is slow when trickling but I'm also in the garage where it's been about 30-40F degrees.I've seen the stick too. I've noticed when I get close to 5.0(my target weight) say 4.7 or 4.9 trickling If I take the pan off and even out the powder in it it will go up a point or two. Then I check it on my other Digi. I tare it and check it every 5 loads. I got my Stimmy check today so may be ordering a powder measure and scale.
 
Whatever is made there are made to the specs of the retailer here, whether the product is underwear or scales.
my Starret calipers are made in china. Shame really. My Mitsutoyo are made in Japan. America need to set up there instruments game.
 
I've been using a RCBS beam scale and Lyman for a long time. I check the the scale every time I use it. It may not be the latest, greatest electronic tech but it work and works well. Use what floats your boat but always check it with known check weights.
 
my Starret calipers are made in china. Shame really. My Mitsutoyo are made in Japan. America need to set up there instruments game.


I'm using a digital Starret Caliper I got in waaay back 1992 for motorcycle mechanics. Has a data port so you can record measurements too. Never used that though. I was thinking of retiring it and getting a new one, but it's still accurate..
 
I'm using a digital Starret Caliper I got in waaay back 1992 for motorcycle mechanics. Has a data port so you can record measurements too. Never used that though. I was thinking of retiring it and getting a new one, but it's still accurate..
old Starret are really good! I would still
use it.

they use to make a printer for the ports
 
I don't understand why folks use one scale to check another.... How do you choose which one to believe is "most" correct? If you don't trust your instruments, why use them? Get a powder balance, not scale, and a set of check weights then make yourself a set of dippers and follow the same exact dipping procedure when dipping (shaking, tapping, strike off excess). A balance is 1 kernal sensitive. Settle time for the beam can be reduced manually by thumb and forefinger. Gravity never runs down, doesn't need electricity, and works the same everywhere.

A scale can be used as a balance if it is set to lowest value and zeroed without any weight, then use check weights to cal for desired weight of powder.
 
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I'm using a digital Starret Caliper I got in waaay back 1992 for motorcycle mechanics. Has a data port so you can record measurements too. Never used that though. I was thinking of retiring it and getting a new one, but it's still accurate..

You can always send it to Starret and have them do a tune up. Then it will be like a new one again with certification. The old stuff is made better than the newer stuff that I have seen. You would thing with all of the modern machinery they would be better. Some items are some are not.
 
You can always send it to Starret and have them do a tune up. Then it will be like a new one again with certification. The old stuff is made better than the newer stuff that I have seen. You would thing with all of the modern machinery they would be better. Some items are some are not.
it’s not modern tooling that’s the problem, it’s skimping on quality material. but yeah, I would take a 25 yo Starret anyday
 
I don't understand why folks use one scale to check another.... If you don't trust your instruments, why use them? Get a powder balance, not scale, and a set of check weights then make yourself a set of dippers and follow the same procedure when dipping. A balance is 1 kernal sensitive. Settle time flr the beam can be reduced manually by thumb and forefinger. Gravity never runs down, doesn't need electricity, and works the same everywhere.

A scale can be used as a balance if it is set to lowest value and zeroed without any weight, then use check weights to cal for desired weight of powder.

Eh...there's reasons. My cheap digital has its advantages, so does my bar scale. I don't have my bar scale up on a platform, so bending over all the time kind of sucks, no need for that on the digital. Both digital scales I've had (this Frankford and a Dillion) both drifted no matter how much I tried...so I keep the one honest with the other. When I REALLY want to get accurate (like for match ammo), I use the bar scale.

One really nice thing about the digital that would be horrible on the bar is quick weighing charges in primed brass from my powder drop. The ability to quick zero the scale, drop my charge, then check it back on the scale to read the drop is something my bar just couldn't do that easily.
 
Newbie here, but what would it matter? As long as your loads are consistent with whatever scale you're using... Isn't consistency the end goal anyway? Your scale, your notes, your rifle...
You might think that, except digital scales start to wander for multiple strange reasons... none of which you can see, so the user has no clue, until the measurements are way off. A digital scale can read high at the low end due to one problem and low at the upper end from a completely different issue (a curve), and yet still "zero". Whereas a balance beam can be off too, but in that instance it's always a constant (a straight line). So a comparative plot of accuracy could look like this...

dUHAM0k.jpg

You are correct, consistency is the end goal. But an unstated component of consistency is repeatability... year after year.

Hope this helps.
 
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