Digital scales

[doubleh]

I'm using a digital Starret Caliper I got in waaay back 1992 for motorcycle mechanics. Has a data port so you can record measurements too. Never used that though. I was thinking of retiring it and getting a new one, but it's still accurate..

I keep the one honest with the other.

How do you know that both haven't drifted and you are checking an inaccurate scale with another inaccurate scale? Check weights don't drift. Like has already been posted, gravity is constant. My limited experience with digital scales says electronics aren't and that is why my experience with them is limited as I can't trust them not to drift.

 

[Typetwelve]

How do you know that both haven't drifted and you are checking an inaccurate scale with another inaccurate scale? Check weights don't drift. Like has already been posted, gravity is constant. My limited experience with digital scales says electronics aren't and that is why my experience with them is limited as I can't trust them not to drift.

Oh, I have check weights as well and use them from time to time. Thus far, my bar scale hasn't changed, it holds proper zero. I cannot say the same about the digital. That's why I check the digital against the bar scale, not the other way around.

 

[JFrank]

I really don't know much about the Electric scale technology beyond the Strain gage vs magnetic force compensation language of one (the latter) is regarded as highly accurate and way more money.
In others words the basic models that most fellas use are pretty much all the same.

 

[Typetwelve]

In others words the basic models that most fellas use are pretty much all the same.[/QUOTE]

All I know is this, my Dillon digital scale was $150, my Frankford was $30. For costing 5 times as much as the other, the Dillon did the same thing drifting after the zero...so back it went. I'm willing to live with quite a bit for $30 and for now, the Frankford is just fine.

 

[MFInc]

How do you know that both haven't drifted and you are checking an inaccurate scale with another inaccurate scale? Check weights don't drift. Like has already been posted, gravity is constant. My limited experience with digital scales says electronics aren't and that is why my experience with them is limited as I can't trust them not to drift.

I have 2-50 gram check weights. I verify same weights between the two. Calibrate it often, I tare often. One of my scales is the same brand of scale I bought to weigh "medicine" 20 years ago and that one is still accurate, but it doesn't weigh grains. If I set them to grams just for comparative purposes they are all the same. If they are different I re weigh. That's 3 different scales all telling me the same I'm cool with that..I feel safer using these atm than the lyman bs500 I had.. Let me clarify, the Starret I was talking about was a caliper and not a scale.

 

[Nature Boy]

digital scales start to wander for multiple strange reasons... none of which you can see, so the user has no clue, until the measurements are way off

I’ll disagree a bit here. The powder pan serves as an in process check weight, which will tell you when your scale is starting to drift

 

[JFrank]

I wrote the weight of my scale pan on the reverse side with a sharpie

 

[Typetwelve]

I’ll disagree a bit here. The powder pan serves as an in process check weight, which will tell you when your scale is starting to drift

Yup...that's exactly how I know mine is drifting. The good news is that it doesn't drift much, it often loses about .3 grain or so, making for a light charge. With what I use my scale for (loads at 20-60 grains), a -.3 isn't going to blow anything up. If I tare the thing every single time, it won't do that...but that oo is a pain.

 

[HowieG]

Since I didn’t have a receipt I had to return it. I bought it in ‘14.

That is exactly why I attach my receipts to the instruction sheet/manual of my equipment and file it for future reference.

 

[Bill M.]

So far. in about 9 months use, my RCBS digital has been very good. A little slow to zero. I do have it sitting on a granite surface block. I throw charges with a powder measure and use the scale to set the powder measure. I have some notes as to what the settings on the powder measure ought to produce on the scale. I check the scale occasionally with check weights. The RCBS replaced a Lyman digital. It was a nice scale but the display went dark. I do not recommend the Lyman.

I do have a Ohaus beam balance that my wife bought for me in 1966. All I can say is that I am glad I do not have to use it any more. You can certainly make mistakes and get poor readings with a beam balance too.

 

[jmorris]

I’ll disagree a bit here. The powder pan serves as an in process check weight, which will tell you when your scale is starting to drift

If the scale is not programmed to self zero itself. That’s easy to check and see though. My RCBS Chargemasters use this “feature” to hide the fact that they drift.



I wouldn’t be surprised if others do too. If you turn on a dead cold scale and come back later once it has warmed up and it’s still at zero, it’s suspect. In the spec sheet of the strain gauge you can see the effects of temperature on them.

 

[HowieG]

I have a RCBS Range Master 750 and a RCBS Charge Master Lite. They both work pretty good with the usual digital scale eccentricities.

The 750 did not come with a ferrite core on it's power cord, so I added one. I pretty much leave it powered on all the time.

The Charge Master Lite bears some watching as it has a tendency to drift a little if the temp changes a couple of degrees. I have a digital thermometer on the shelf above the unit and I recalibrate if the temp shifts two degrees in either direction. I also found that turning it on at LEAST an hour before use is a good thing. Sometimes, I just leave it on if I know I will be using it over a period of days.

I have a small collection of vintage beam scales that I could call on for backup if the power failed.

 

[Nature Boy]

If the scale is not programmed to self zero itself.

My personal example is the GemPro 250, not a self zeroing scale AFAIK.

I didn't have many drifting issues with it, but when it did the empty powder pan let me know it was time to re tare or re calibrate

 

[Pivot Dr]

Nothing’s wrong with my analog scale (manual scale). I just like to compare measurements. Makes me feel better when analog and digital measurements match.

That was my problem with the electronic digital scale, they rarely weighed the same as my beam, my beam was consistent and repeatable, the digitals were not. No trust in the digital, maybe they’re better today?

 

[HowieG]

That was my problem with the electronic digital scale, they rarely weighed the same as my beam, my beam was consistent and repeatable, the digitals were not. No trust in the digital, maybe they’re better today?

Are digitals better today? Maybe. Maybe not. Digital quality seems to be directly related to what you spend on them, and your level knowledge and care using them.

Are digitals more accurate than beam scales? Nope, not according to the specs on the ones I can afford. My beam scales are supposed to have an accuracy of +/- 0.1 grain. My Chargemaster Lite spec is +/- 0.1 to 500 grains. To get better than that you need to spend more money than I am willing to spend.

Are digitals faster and easier to read than beam scales? Heck yeah. That is the advantage.

 

[PWC]

My powder balance (not beam scale) sensitivity is measured and repeatable; isn't measured in grains...it's measured in kernals, as in one kernal of 4060, or 4895.

Knife edges are bettern' load cells.

That said, I do have a Lyman Digital Pocket scale to weigh cases, bullets, or anything else small that needs weighing.

 

[HowieG]

My powder balance sensitivity is measured and repeatable; isn't measured in grains...it's measured in kernals, as in one kernal of 4060, or 4895.

Knife edges are bettern' load cells.

If I needed one kernal accuracy, I imagine I would go for it, but I don't. I am not shooting in any game that requires that .

 

[PWC]

If I needed one kernal accuracy, I imagine I would go for it, but I don't. I am not shooting in any game that requires that .

Neither do I, I drop 5 loads from my Lyman 55 measure and weigh the average and adjust as necessary. That's the precision I can expect from my set up. I don't shoot competition nor hunt anymore. I stalk paper and shoot for myself and against myself.

I only stated my accuracy to show that I don't have to go thru any mental/mathmatical gymnastics and know that gravity doesn't lose power or drift, and once cal'd with known weights it doesn't lose cal for that reload session.

 

[Bushmaster 6]

I use a Lyman Gen 6 digital and an RCBS 10-10. If I'm loading a single tray for rifle, I use the Gen and double check every 5th round on the balance beam. Always spot on. The Lyman Gen 6 is accurate.
If I am reloading in volume for pistol, I calibrate my RCBS Uniform using the micro adjuster and the Lyman digital. Then I throw and validate charges. Then load a tray.
I don't use progressive loaders anymore. Don't see a need. Loading is the journey , listening to cool tune, not a race.