DW Heritage click-test FAIL

[drband]

My DW Heritage failed one part of the click-test (thumb safety) when I checked it today. It’s about 3 yrs old, very tight, accurate shooter, just a fine pistol.

Should I be concerned?

click-test as described on Cylinder & Slide web site: https://www.cylinder-slide.com/1911safetyck.shtml

It has never malfunctioned in 2000-3000 rds fired. The hammer has never fallen with the TS engaged. The grip safety passes, as does the disconnect or. The click when checking the TS is almost imperceptible but it is there.

As an aside, my RIA 9mm/TCM passes the click-test on all counts.

Thoughts?

 

[BBBBill]

Try the modified click test. Do as normal, but instead of holding the gun up to your ear to listen for a click, look down in front of the hammer at the sear nose while you pull the hammer back. If you see the sear nose drop further into the hammer hooks you have verified the issue and know that the sound is coming from the sear moving. The safety blocking lug can be peened or welded and refit to block movement or a new safety can be fit. They do not drop in. If you are not comfortable doing this then shipping it back to DW may be the best option unless you have access to a qualified 1911 smith. Note the emphasis, there are many general gunsmiths who do not understand the 1911. There are lots of guys who think the do, but their work says otherwise. I know quite a few hobbyists whom I would trust before certain so call smiths. Are you willing to ship? If not perhaps we can suggest a qualified smith within driving distance.
Any movement is wrong. However, pick up any one of thousands of old GI guns and you are liable to see/hear the movement of the sear. Engagement surfaces on those guns were/are far more generous than many currently manufactured guns and, while not correct or desirable, could be used safely in that condition. The sear just could not move far enough to risk slipping off the hammer hooks. Not so with most modern guns.

 

[drband]

I suspect my sear does not move enough to ever be a problem, but I will remove the GS so I can see exactly what’s going on when it clicks. To be updated.

 

[Drail]

If it clicked any at all, then it moved.

 

[drband]

I disassembled and looked at the hammer hooks and sear engagement surfaces. They are interesting, stock DW internals, untouched from the factory. The sear nose looks good but with very little stoning for the relief angle (maybe none). I will need to get a better magnifier though! The hammer hooks were a little short in my opinion, but I did not take time to measure with my caliper. They seemed a little lower than the .020 shim with my sear tool. I will measure them when I have more time. Polished the engagement surfaces with an ultra-fine ceramic stone (Brownells).

The TS lug just barely clears the sear... it's definitely no more than a thousandth of play there and only under pressure. May be a candidate for peening...


And... the click seems less after polishing... (not the TS lug! The sear nose and hammer hooks)

 

[drband]

Update: Peened the sear block lug on the TS. It did not take much, though the TS metal is really hard. There’s a slight interference fit when I flick the safety on and off where there was none before. The best part— it all passes the click-test now! Perfect.

link for peening technique: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0601.htm

 

[Cemetery21]

Good on you for figuring it out! I've peened thumb safeties and a few grip safety tangs.