First Hunting Rifle: 6.5X55 Swede, .270, or. 308/7.62x39 Russian

[Maverick223]

I'd absolutely forget about the .270WSM (had one and hated the cartridge...no tangible gain over the .270Win. and with more recoil and less bbl life) as well as the .300WM (still have one of these, and love the booger, but doesn't fit your requirements, again too much recoil).

The 7mm-08Rem., 6.5x55mmSwede, and .260Rem. are still your best options without using reduced recoil loads. For a little more versatility and availability the .30-06Spd. would be just the ticket, but recoil might be an issue for a youngster, so reduced recoil loads would be advisable (at least to begin with). A good recoil pad would certainly help, personally I prefer a nice thick Pachmayr to the Limbsaver, but neither are bad choices.

 

[1stmarine]

...don't forget the muzzle brake. It can be a linear one so the noise will not be an issue but I would prefer a good set of ear plugs and get all the braking I can get for the young man.

Cheers,
E.

 

[Maverick223]

Oh good lord no...don't put a dag blame muzzle brake on a hunting rifle...be it a .223Rem. or a .470NE. Those noisemakers (and ALL of 'em increase noise a great deal...or simply don't work) are best left to ranges...empty ranges.

 

[sig220mw]

Of the choices you listed for me it would be between the 6.5 and the 270. I would pick the 270 between the 2 because of the better range and also better ammo availability if you don't reload or your handloads were lost or what ever. The 270 and the 6.5x55 both have great ballistics and sectional density. Both kill like lightning bolts with one shot if placed properly.

Also both are easy on the shoulder.

 

[1stmarine]

Maverik,
I respectfully disagree.
muzzle brakes work very well in many rifles, including hunting rifles. Linear ones do not increase the noise, actually some dissipate the noise better as the gasses bleed forward and compressed. Brakes can reduce recoil as much as 30% depending on ammunition, rifle and brake configuration.
This would help specially a 14 year old to getting comfortable with bigger calibers and avoid twitching.
Many browning hunting rifles come with the boss brake and these also allow for harmonics tuning.

Pickup your evil! LOL!



Cheers,
E.

 

[suzukisam]

I agree with marine.. most of my rifles re compensated.. you can may them noisier you can only change the direction of the sound waves, and the work...very well. I have a 300 wby mag that recoils about like a 308, or maybe even lighter.. and an AR that literally doesn't move if fired from a bipod with one hand....

 

[TexasPatriot.308]

6.5x 65 for sure also the .308 and 7mm-08, lots of gun, little recoil. what more you need?

 

[1stmarine]

Here is another thought. DPMS makes uppers for many .308win based cartridges.
Those include:
-the .243 Winchester (one of the most accurate and versatile cartridges ever devised)
-260 Rem. can be fitted with a 140gr bullet with BC .590 traveling close to 2,800ft/s.
-The versatile and venerable .308win.
-.338 federal that will knock down anything in this continent with a 225gr TSX or similar.
I am pretty sure someone can cut a 7mm 08 barrel for you. Although bullet assortment is more limited than 6mm, 6.5mm and .30 calibers, 7mm has some of the best bullets out there in terms of ballistic coefficient.
It can be necked down from .308 win cases that are plentiful and budget friendly.

Any of these uppers in the DPMS lower with a light barrel and muzzle brake will be a joy to shoot for anyone of any age.
The Remington SR-25 is the same as the DPMS as they both are made in the same factory (Same company).

Easy for starters but more moola up front.
Cheers.
E.

 

[35 Whelen]

Oh good lord no...don't put a dag blame muzzle brake on a hunting rifle...be it a .223Rem. or a .470NE.

Agreed. Those things are LOUD. Several years ago I shot a match in which I was positioned to a knucklehead who had one on a AR15. Everytime the damned thing went off it was like someone hittingme in the side of the head with a broom. I HATE those things.
If it kicks too much, either get a lighter caliber or learn to live with the recoil.
35W

 

[Maverick223]

Linear ones do not increase the noise, actually some dissipate the noise better as the gasses bleed forward and compressed.

Do tell...how do they reduce recoil if they eject the gases out of the muzzle? My understanding was that the linear style compensators only served to reduce muzzle rise, not mitigate recoil.

Everytime the damned thing went off it was like someone hittingme in the side of the head with a broom.

Has been my experience as well. The biggest issue isn't really the noise (which can be easily reduced with ear-pro), but rather the blast which in some instances was severe enough to bother my sinuses and cause a headache.

 

[pikid89]

^ try shooting on a bench at a public range when the ********* next to you is shooting a barret 50 bmg with a slanted back brake, where the vents point straight at you...



as per the OP.... go with the .270...theres a reason its been around so long...

 

[1stmarine]

Maverik,
While not as efficient as another brake designs linear brakes do reduce snap and climb and overall felt recoil and concussion is always easily measurable.
Instead of redirecting the gases what they do is slow down the gases pretty much like a silencer does but instead of keep compressing the gases they bleed forward.
I have measured this with many brake designs and I did close to 2 years research, development and testing on them.
Understand you are not comfortable with your previous experiences. Not everyone feels that way though.
If one day you would consider try other designs and might find one that will improve your system's performance and your shooting experience.
All my brakes are custom designs and cut to perform in a very specific way based on the needs of that barrel and system.
I have not found many commercial brakes that do well what I need them to do.
I even found those that do not reduce recoil well, are loud and uncomfortable and screw up with the accruacy of the system.
For example the diameter of and length of the different cuts the bullet passes through can affect the bullet's accuracy. Even some expensive brakes produce terrible results.
So, like many things you do in your systems, one needs to take careful consideration to modifications.

I was simply throwing some thoughts out there like everybody else.
I understand what works for me might not work for others based on their systems, experience, likes and dislikes.
I don't want to deviate from the subject at hand anymore in this thread.

Cheers,
E.

 

[Kachok]

There is a healthy selection on .310cal bullets if you handload. 123gr spire points have an exellent track reccord on deer sized game. 7.62x39s rifles just suffer from loose fitting parts on their AK, and SKS rifles. A modern bolt gun in that caliber is capable of sub-MOA with quality amunition (aka not surplus) There is nothing wrong with its case design, the world famous 6mmPPC necked down 7.62x39 brass.
All of those wounderful things said I recomend them in this order: 6.5x55, 270win, 308win, 7.62x39

 

[Water-Man]

Forget the brake! If you can't handle the recoil use a lesser caliber or put a good recoil pad on the rifle.

 

[6.5swede]

CCB,

Picking a first hunting rifle is a task that will probably have you scratching your head in 10 years or so...."what was I thinking". Hunting experience over years will dictate ultimately what your favorite rifle(s)/caliber(s) will be. There are so many factors in addition to caliber that will dictate what is ultimately best for you. Type of hunting.... stand vs stalking....long range vs short...open country vs timber, type of game most COMMONLY hunted, rifle fit to the individual, rifle weight and recoil tolerance, Bullets/ammo/loads that the rifle actually likes and shoots well, etc. Just to name a few. Remember that in hunting situations "bullets are more important than headstamps", ie the best "magnum" caliber shooting crappy bullets for the hunting task at hand will be less effective than a modest caliber accurately shooting a well constructed hunting bullet for task at hand.
If deer hunting is your primary goal with the possibility that you might hunt Elk or bear someday and you are concerned about recoil, then I would recommend, as many posters already have, the 6.5x55, 260, or 7mm-08. My stable of hunting rifles consists of 6.5x55's, 260's, 7mm-08's, 270's and 30-06's. I grew up hunting with a 270 and 30-06 but over time and as my son took up hunting, I gravitated to more sensible but effective calibers for deer and hogs (95% of my big game hunting). Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of the 270, 30-06 and 308 and they are 3 of the most popular American hunting cartridges for a reason. But, I don't feel under gunned for any non dangerous NA game with my 6.5's and 7mm-08's. With appropriate bullet/load selection for hunting task at hand, they flat out get the job done. They're pleasant to shoot even with ultra light rifles. My suggestion would be to actually handle different rifles in the narrowed down lists of calibers that you have.....see what fits you best and floats your boat and then begin load testing for accuracy in your rifle. As stated by others, ammo availability is best for the 270, 308, and 30-06 but you can also find a variety of quality ammo for the 6.5's and 7mm-08 on the internet. Start reloading and all that is a moot point. Best of luck.