I should've started at 2.65 but I didn't.I use win 760 at 37.6grs with the sierra 100gr psp flat base and my savage axis shoots very well. I seat mine to a case over all length of 2.650 so you might try that and see if that helps on the length! plus I also use cci large rifle mag primers with mine.
I suggest you go to
I run pro hunters over h1000 at 2.68" you might drop the charge a bit, I run near Max myself but my Max is 46.7 iirc
Looking at Lee data the Max for H1000 is 48gr, but I only went to 46.8gr. I made a dummy round when I first started loading for the gun. Seated the bullet at about 2.730" and chambered it, it put a rifling mark on the bullet about 0.040" long. So I backed down to 2.680" and went with that. Loaded up a test run in 0.5gr steps, shot those. 46.5 grouped best, loaded test of 46.5, 46.6, 46.7, and 46.8gr, 46.7 and 46.8gr were nearly identical groups. I understand now that I should have started at minimum COAL, worked up a load, then went to playing with length. Is there something else wrong with my process that I'm missing? (Other than shooting 20 round groups to catch all variables.)
I see your point. Little off subject but, I was thinking of re-barreling with a Shilen "pre-fit". Is that a good choice?
Welllllllllllll hodgdon says seat at 2.65 which is of course shorter than our 2.68. If I were you, (and I'm not so from here on you're on your own) I would measure the length of the atk flat base against the pro hunters. If they're the same length (or close enough) I'd say that you're just causing uneven pressures with the off depth seating. On the other hand, you COULD try seating down to 2.63-2.62-2.625 (you get the idea) and stay with h1000 but reduce the charge, I know the btips begin to compress at Max 95 gr data charges at 2.68 and in MY gun I would start with the 95 data starting loads of h1000 and work up gradually. Personally I have no love for cannelures and avoid them no matter who made em, BUT I would suggest that I know h1000 shouldn't flatten primers with a mere 15 degree temp change, so evidence nudges me towards the idea that the uneven depths caused the inaccuracies and pressure signs, I believe your 20 rounds will perform much better but if not there are still avenues I would pursue with the powder that is working so well otherwise with the same weight bullet.
The only difference I've seen between the ATK and the Sierra is a cannelure and the boogered up lead tip. Weight spread is about the same too. Oh, and of course, ATKs don't shoot worth a flip with the same load.
. I'm saying that if getting them all seated to the proper length, (2.65-2.68) does not work, then yes, reduce to 95 gr start load (from hodgdon) and work up (change the depth as well if reducing charge weight does no good but ONE at a time, when reducing length I would start over at 44 gr and work up again)...... this is one gr above the start load of the 100 gr data so some folks would recommend just starting completely over at 44 gr, which of course is the smart thing to do, I only suggest starting at 45 because at your distorted depths, and a near Max load you're just starting to see the occasional pressure troubles, so to me, at 2.65-2.68 45 gr would be safe enough, BUT that is just what I would do with MY gun, YOU may decide that starting all over at 44 for both 2.65-2.68 & 2.62ish is the safer smarter route.The only difference I've seen between the ATK and the Sierra is a cannelure and the boogered up lead tip. Weight spread is about the same too. Oh, and of course, ATKs don't shoot worth a flip with the same load.
I'm not talking the bullet down, I just made a mistake in expecting the same results from a component that was not exactly the same. Just inexperience rearing its ugly head
So what you're saying is: Back down to a start charge for a 95gr Nosler BT and try seating at 2.62"-2.63", correct?
Ok, got it thank you for the help!
I've seen the POI walking laterally, with barrel heating just like many have mentioned on forum. I have an Axis in 308 that I only use for deer hunting, and it walks like my 110 243.
My buddy's 110 .270 is the same way, I like the full contour barrels now, lighter than a bull barrel but a beautiful compromise, some companies call it full contour and others call it a #4 I believe.
I see these Youtube videos all the time were people work up loads,and they shoot 3,or4 rounds each of different loads,without taking into concideration that the first group has the advantage of the cool barrel,and the others are gonna be progresivily handicaped..
What do you think about Shilen drop-in barrels? Know anyone who has one? Are they worth it if you're not shooting competition?
On this matter I agree with @Bart B. but he'll explain it better than I can, truing your action will be MUCH more productive than slapping on a new barrel. The overheating issues tend to be exhibited most when things aren't quite square.....if I remember right Bart says he tests his groups in a HOT barrel or maybe sights in with a hot barrel?? Hopefully he'll chime in soon, obviously his purposes and mine are not the same BUT I believe that on many concepts I agree with him. As for the shilen itself, I apologize I have no experience with them but I will still address how I feel about whether their WORTH it. A .243 is supposed to have an accuracy life of 1500 rds because it's so overbored. This is drill a chipmunk's boogers at 600 yds with trued action type of accuracy. Hunting accuracy barrel life is of course longer. For the price of a shilen/bartlein/Hart grade barrel, I always ask, will I burn it out in 1,2,3 or 4 years? If so, am I OK with spending $xxxx which equals $xxx/year OR $x.xx per shot for my purposes? For sporting purposes I still wear out barrels fast, and expect a .243 to only last 2-4 years, (though that number is growing slightly as the .223 is taking over MUCH of the battle on prairie dogs, but will probably shrink back again as they're all becoming more and more enthusiastic with the sport) so for me, a new barrel isn't too bad regardless of cost, not awesome, but easy enough to live with. Ultimately noone but you should decide whether it's worth it as we're not the ones paying your bills nor squeezing the trigger for you
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Good point! When I wear this one out I'm leaning towards a 6mm CM. I was looking at some 6 CM ammo with the 108gr. Hornady ELD-M and it was so beautiful I wanted to ask it out on a date!On this matter I agree with @Bart B. but he'll explain it better than I can, truing your action will be MUCH more productive than slapping on a new barrel. The overheating issues tend to be exhibited most when things aren't quite square.....if I remember right Bart says he tests his groups in a HOT barrel or maybe sights in with a hot barrel?? Hopefully he'll chime in soon, obviously his purposes and mine are not the same BUT I believe that on many concepts I agree with him. As for the shilen itself, I apologize I have no experience with them but I will still address how I feel about whether their WORTH it. A .243 is supposed to have an accuracy life of 1500 rds because it's so overbored. This is drill a chipmunk's boogers at 600 yds with trued action type of accuracy. Hunting accuracy barrel life is of course longer. For the price of a shilen/bartlein/Hart grade barrel, I always ask, will I burn it out in 1,2,3 or 4 years? If so, am I OK with spending $xxxx which equals $xxx/year OR $x.xx per shot for my purposes? For sporting purposes I still wear out barrels fast, and expect a .243 to only last 2-4 years, (though that number is growing slightly as the .223 is taking over MUCH of the battle on prairie dogs, but will probably shrink back again as they're all becoming more and more enthusiastic with the sport) so for me, a new barrel isn't too bad regardless of cost, not awesome, but easy enough to live with. Ultimately noone but you should decide whether it's worth it as we're not the ones paying your bills nor squeezing the trigger for you
Hopefully Savage will offer more stock rifles in that caliber by then. If not I'll just go with another 243.You could always rebarrel to a faster twist .243 to shoot the LONG bullets and then you wouldn't have to worry about brass availability and could still scoot the 107 gr pills out there between 2700-2900 fps with the h1000 and nosler says they're running em out there close to 2900 with 46 gr of magnum, don't know how a 1:8" twist would do with the varmint pills, but then again you could get a spare anything to shoot the lightweight bullets...... seating that deep gives me the heeby jeebies! If I were to do that I'd switch powders and start over. Did you test any at a consistent 2.65-2.68"? I'm worried that if they were as fluctuated as you infer, some of them were too close to the lands. I can't think of ANY time Speer ever said to seat that deep and iirc they (federal) crimp at the bottom of the cannelure, but I don't crimp either and my brother has TONS of cannelure hornady pills in 100 gr weight and he never crimps either, so I would still (without being able to test this theory myself) say try to get a consistent seating depth, my Lee dead seat doesn't push on the nose tip but rather acts like a seating collet. Thus, should I seat one bullet to length, any other bullet of similar profile will seat to the same length regardless of the tip being smashed. If I swap from pro hunter to btip or Berger then I must readjust but otherwise they will all seat the same length.Good point! When I wear this one out I'm leaning towards a 6mm CM. I was looking at some 6 CM ammo with the 108gr. Hornady ELD-M and it was so beautiful I wanted to ask it out on a date!
On the subject of the seating depth of the high cannelure bullets, they must be pushed all the way down to 2.575" to hit the middle of the cannelure.
I did test after reseating to a consistent 2.68 and then a consistent 2.62 (with reduced charges). 2.68" was the same 3-3.5". 2.62" was about 1.5" at best.
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Thanks for the info!
so what bullet weights you playin with in your 243? I'm shooting the 100gr bullets but thought about tryin something else just for grins and giggles!I did test after reseating to a consistent 2.68 and then a consistent 2.62 (with reduced charges). 2.68" was the same 3-3.5". 2.62" was about 1.5" at best.
I use the same Lee dead length seater as you.
I think my mistake was expecting near match quality out of a non-match hunting bullet. Lesson learned
The results would be great for deer or coyotes out to 100yds, but not what I was looking for.
