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How are stocks shortened?

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Feb 28, 2003
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Reno, NV
Let's say I wanted to shorten the LOP of a rifle stock and fit a recoil pad. I have found several fixtures used to hold the recoil pad in conjunction with a disc sander for grinding, but was wondering what fixtures/tooling exists for cutting a stock to length?

How is this normally done in the industry?
 
I have built an adjustable angle jig to hold stocks on my table saw. Using a carbide-tipped finish blade gives a perfect cut.

Before that, I used a fine-cut hand saw in a miter-saw box set to the heel & toe angle, and the front of the stock shimmed up to get a square side to side cut..

Before that, I free-handed it with a hacksaw, and leveled the result with a disk sander in a 1/4" drill.

Regardless of what saw you use, always wrap the stock with masking tape where the cut will be done.
That prevents finish chipping and splinters popping up on the cut edge.

rcmodel
 
I have built an adjustable angle jig to hold stocks on my table saw. Using a carbide-tipped finish blade gives a perfect cut.

Before that, I used a fine-cut hand saw in a miter-saw box set to the heel & toe angle, and the front of the stock shimmed up to get a square side to side cut..

Before that, I free-handed it with a hacksaw, and leveled the result with a disk sander in a 1/4" drill.

Regardless of what saw you use, always wrap the stock with masking tape where the cut will be done.
That prevents finish chipping and splinters popping up on the cut edge.

rcmodel

It's probably safe to chisel that answer in stone. Its not going to change. :)
 
Thanks for the tips as well as the nice write up! I have a compound miter saw, so that is probably the best route for me. I just need some good fixturing to get me on my way..
 
Easiest way to fixture it is to use a wide board and block the stock into place from bottom and side to be square and level and then slide the whole deal over and make your cut.
 
Riss has the easiest way. Use a SHARP miter blade, a new one works best, and cut slowly to reduce splintering. And Rcmodel includes the highly helpful caution to wrap the cut line with tape (I use duct tape) to keep edge splintering to a minumum. Pull the tape away towards the cut-off end to prevent the tape from pulling up stock finish.

Your hardest task will be to sand the new pad or butt plate smooth without damaging the stock finish. It can be done easiest, IMHO, with a 10" disk sander blade mounted on a radial or table saw and a fitted rip fence that allows sanding right up to but prevents cutting past the stock wood.
 
"...have a compound miter saw..." That'd do it nicely. Did my 870 so long ago that I forget exactly how I did it. Mitre box and a regular wood saw, I think. The comb of the stock against the fence should be straight enough to get the cut end flat. Only needs an inch off for most pads.
A belt sander to fit the pad to the stock is best. Tape the wood and work slowly.
 
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