Sorry forgot to insert the images. The grooves on the rifling need to be cleaned.Pictures of the bore
Sorry forgot to insert the images. The grooves on the rifling need to be cleaned.Pictures of the bore
What, if anything, is noted to be particularly good at lead removal?On the first image it appears the grooves are getting filled with lead, creating what could seem like a smooth bore scenario. You are leading up.
Sharp-shoot-r (same company that makes wipe-out/ Patch out) has a lead-out that I have found to work well… as always, ymmv.What, if anything, is noted to be particularly good at lead removal?
?? The first photo is before cleaning, it’s a 6.5 Creedmoor, not a 22lr, so I don’t know how lead would get into the grooves. Does a copper jacketed bullet wear through to the lead core as it travels down the barrel? Please enlighten me.On the first image it appears the grooves are getting filled with lead, creating what could seem like a smooth bore scenario. You are leading up.
That`s a question in my mind as well. If one shoots only jacketed bullets, shouldn`t lead accumulation be essentially negligible? Then again, I`m always in need of education on this stuff!?? The first photo is before cleaning, it’s a 6.5 Creedmoor, not a 22lr, so I don’t know how lead would get into the grooves. Does a copper jacketed bullet wear through to the lead core as it travels down the barrel? Please enlighten me.
There was the guy here who figured his base screws, mount screws, and guard screws were tight enough because his rifle did not rattle when he shook it. A more experienced shooter showed him that was not an adequate test.All four screws loose.
?? The first photo is before cleaning, it’s a 6.5 Creedmoor, not a 22lr, so I don’t know how lead would get into the grooves. Does a copper jacketed bullet wear through to the lead core as it travels down the barrel? Please enlighten me.
Depending on the velocity and the rifle twist, there could be a possibility that the jacketing is too thin and coming apart. Of course it is only a hypothesis. I have no real proof.That`s a question in my mind as well. If one shoots only jacketed bullets, shouldn`t lead accumulation be essentially negligible? Then again, I`m always in need of education on this stuff!
Elbow grease and Hoppes 9 is my go too. Liberally use a patch and run it through the barrel and let it soak a few minutes. I'll run 3 or 4 patches soaked in solvent and as a final pass I like to use a brush bronze or copper. Than I do the dry patches. There are more solvents out there that do real good to but I notice Hoppes 9 to be slightly better. When it comes to the polishing cloths I prefer Birchwood Casey over Hoppes cloth. Just does a better and quicker jobs of removing the burnt powder and lead residue on revolver cylinders.What, if anything, is noted to be particularly good at lead removal?
I would think that if the jackets came apart, so would any accuracy.Depending on the velocity and the rifle twist, there could be a possibility that the jacketing is too thin and coming apart. Of course it is only a hypothesis. I have no real proof.
That is correct and that was what the OP was complaining about too. Notice that I also stated it was a hypothesis of mine or better yet just an assumption. But the grooves do look like they are not clean, it could be lead.I would think that if the jackets came apart, so would any accuracy.
Does a copper jacketed bullet wear through to the lead core as it travels down the barrel? Please enlighten me.
?? The first photo is before cleaning, it’s a 6.5 Creedmoor, not a 22lr, so I don’t know how lead would get into the grooves.
So V, by extension, would you say that someone who shoots jacketed bullets exclusively ( which I assume is most folks? ) should expect little, if any, lead accumulation?No. Absolutely not.
The shiny fouling you’ve mistakenly identified as lead is actually carbon.
So V, by extension, would you say that someone who shoots jacketed bullets exclusively ( which I assume is most folks? ) should expect little, if any, lead accumulation?
So V, by extension, would you say that someone who shoots jacketed bullets exclusively ( which I assume is most folks? ) should expect little, if any, lead accumulation?
Now you have me wondering what the melting temp was on the plastic tips Hornady used to use before they found out they were failing in flight.
Depending on the velocity and the rifle twist, there could be a possibility that the jacketing is too thin and coming apart. Of course it is only a hypothesis. I have no real proof.
Copper jacket disintegrates in the bore? Yea there’s a lot I don’t know but I’m not buying it.Overspun bullets come apart outside of the barrel. Not within the bore.
Copper jacket disintegrates in the bore? Yea there’s a lot I don’t know but I’m not buying it.
Than is it possible that the bullets might be undersized and not grabbing the lands and grooves properly? I'm out of theories.Overspun bullets come apart outside of the barrel. Not within the bore.
I'd start here. I've never met a copper solvent that benefitted from scrubbing; ime a well-coppered barrel wants a fresh patch of Copper Killer every hour for a day, or you can compress that jnto an afternoon with Sweet's 7.62. In both cases, you should recheck for copper after normal cleaning.I scrubbed the barrel with a copper remover and flushed it with Hoppe’s No.9
Than is it possible that the bullets might be undersized and not grabbing the lands and grooves properly? I'm out of theories.
If it`s baked on carbon, how about an over night soak in C4?
I have a Savage Axis II Precision with 2500 rounds through it and accuracy hasn't suffered. The throat's eroded a bit, but accuracy doesn't seem affected by it. I clean it every 250 rounds and haven't had any carbon build up that I know about.Does it take to shoot out a barrel? Specifically, a 6.5 Creedmoor? I have a Savage 110 Precision Elite I bought new in 2021. I started with it using Hornady factory rounds about the same time I began hand loading. My best shooting had been a single ragged hole using 44.1 grains of Staball 6.5 under a Nosler 140 grain OTM. The factory ammo was good but the hand loads were better. Last 3 times at the range I’ve been averaging 2” - 3” groups with my hand loads. I scrubbed the barrel with a copper remover and flushed it with Hoppe’s No.9 then today I bought a variety of 3 boxes of factory ammo in 129, 140 and 147 to “baseline“ the rifle, so to speak. My point of impact varied some, as I would expect, but all groups were exactly the same, 2-3 inches at 100 yards. This rifle has well under 1,000 rounds through it. I’ve checked all the receiver screws, scope screws, etc. I can dial the scope to move the groups consistently but the size of the groups doesn’t change. The optic is a Crimson Trace 5-25 FFP. I brought along a similar rifle with me, my Savage 110 Precision 300 Win Mag. It’s consistently shooting sub MOA and boring accurate, so that eliminates me as the problem. I’ll have my buddy shoot with me next week and see how he does with it. Sorry for the long post but I’m stumped.