How should I finish this?

[Col. Harrumph]

Gun is a US Revolver (aka Iver Johnson) .32... worth essentially nothing. But hey, it's a project, OK?

My first idea was to Bondo the pits and squirt some Krylon. But then it occurred to me that someone here might have a better idea!

What say you?

 

[BBBBill]

Use it as an opportunity to practice your draw filing and stoning skills.

 

[Catcar67]

I'd try a Dremel or sanding disc (120 grit) to see if I could take out some of the rust pits then to with a cold blueing job.

 

[boom boom]

Duracoat makes a bluing paint facsimile that appears pretty decent from pictures. Here is their Nitre Bluing example, https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue-nitre?variant=33530649865 and regular varieties https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue?variant=33527890121. Have a can of it downstairs for a project firearm that I have not gathered all of the parts for yet.

They have an associated epoxy based filler material, durafil, (https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durafil-surface-filler) I believe for filling in pits, etc. There is also something like DevCon epoxy with steel reinforcement. Some epoxies, not sure it DevCon is one of them, can accept colorant and some are a native grey to start with. Brownells has it as 262-100-101WB Epoxy Steel Putty. They also have versions with stainless steel, titanium, bronze, or aluminium instead of steel. Not sure how exact the color matches are.

 

[edwardware]

If you paint it. . . I've found epoxy-based brake caliper and suspension paint (sold in auto stores) to be much tougher than typical spraypaint.

 

[ulflyer]

Bead blast it if you can find one to use, then cold blue, or one of the spray coatings.

 

[WestKentucky]

Do you have the other parts? I would just assemble it, get it working right, and enjoy the snot out of it.

 

[.40isthenew.45]

Have you thought of engraving? Match the design around the pits, kind of like covering a bad tattoo.....

 

[Mizar]

I believe that BBBBill gave you the best idea so far.

 

[LoonWulf]

Duracoat makes a bluing paint facsimile that appears pretty decent from pictures. Here is their Nitre Bluing example, https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue-nitre?variant=33530649865 and regular varieties https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue?variant=33527890121. Have a can of it downstairs for a project firearm that I have not gathered all of the parts for yet.

They have an associated epoxy based filler material, durafil, (https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durafil-surface-filler) I believe for filling in pits, etc. There is also something like DevCon epoxy with steel reinforcement. Some epoxies, not sure it DevCon is one of them, can accept colorant and some are a native grey to start with. Brownells has it as 262-100-101WB Epoxy Steel Putty. They also have versions with stainless steel, titanium, bronze, or aluminium instead of steel. Not sure how exact the color matches are.

I've been playing with the durablue "blue/black"
It won't fool anyone who handles the firearm, but from 10' it's pretty well indistinguishable from real highpolish bluing.

The bolt is still blued.

 

[boom boom]

I've been playing with the durablue "blue/black"
It won't fool anyone who handles the firearm, but from 10' it's pretty well indistinguishable from real highpolish bluing.

The bolt is still blued.

View attachment 829653

Thanks for the pictures, I am thinking about using it on a 1886 Lebel or an old SMLE receiver as the finish resembles a WWII refurb for the Lebel or a Suncorite Paint finish during FTR for the SMLE. Both are parts guns so I am not worried about affecting the value as these could only be improved.

 

[troy fairweather]

I've been playing with the durablue "blue/black"
It won't fool anyone who handles the firearm, but from 10' it's pretty well indistinguishable from real highpolish bluing.

The bolt is still blued.

View attachment 829653

i would like to see how it holds up, i'm still thinking to use it on my 336 marlin.

 

[edwardware]

It won't fool anyone who handles the firearm, but from 10' it's pretty well indistinguishable from real highpolish bluing. The bolt is still blued.

Wow. I own modern hot-salt bluing that doesn't look that much like bluing. . .

 

[LoonWulf]

i would like to see how it holds up, i'm still thinking to use it on my 336 marlin.

I'm 6 coats of poly in on the stock (who said polys for lazy people?), After I get it done I'll go beat the crap out of it and see how it holds up. So far tho it's been clanging around my bench for a couple months now and no scratches or dings....I did drop something on it that's hardened and stuck, I'll have to try scratching that off.

Wow. I own modern hot-salt bluing that doesn't look that much like bluing. . .

I'll grab some in the sun pictures, it's a little more obviously not bluing. Part of that tho I'm sure is the prep. I fast blasted that rifle with 80grit instead of the 120 they recommend. I'm thinking a 400grit polish might produce an even better result, but may detract from the adhesion.

I've refinished a few guns in worse shape than the OPs revolver. I would either fill with an epoxy compound, blend, then coat.
Or I'd remove as much of the pitting as I could, blast with 80-120grit and hot blue.

 

[troy fairweather]

I'm 6 coats of poly in on the stock (who said polys for lazy people?), After I get it done I'll go beat the crap out of it and see how it holds up. So far tho it's been clanging around my bench for a couple months now and no scratches or dings....I did drop something on it that's hardened and stuck, I'll have to try scratching that off.


I'll grab some in the sun pictures, it's a little more obviously not bluing. Part of that tho I'm sure is the prep. I fast blasted that rifle with 80grit instead of the 120 they recommend. I'm thinking a 400grit polish might produce an even better result, but may detract from the adhesion.

I've refinished a few guns in worse shape than the OPs revolver. I would either fill with an epoxy compound, blend, then coat.
Or I'd remove as much of the pitting as I could, blast with 80-120grit and hot blue.

id like to try some, i could hot blue mine when the temp heats up around here. tho i think my buddys hot blue salts were getting weak, he or i don't have the money to top it up right now.it's for a woods marlin anyway, it's going to get dings and scratches.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

Do you have the other parts? I would just assemble it, get it working right, and enjoy the snot out of it.

Of course I will do that!

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Duracoat makes a bluing paint facsimile that appears pretty decent from pictures. Here is their Nitre Bluing example, https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue-nitre?variant=33530649865 and regular varieties https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durablue?variant=33527890121. Have a can of it downstairs for a project firearm that I have not gathered all of the parts for yet.

They have an associated epoxy based filler material, durafil, (https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/products/durafil-surface-filler) I believe for filling in pits, etc. There is also something like DevCon epoxy with steel reinforcement. Some epoxies, not sure it DevCon is one of them, can accept colorant and some are a native grey to start with. Brownells has it as 262-100-101WB Epoxy Steel Putty. They also have versions with stainless steel, titanium, bronze, or aluminium instead of steel. Not sure how exact the color matches are.

I have used the "Dura-Fil" on pitted finishes, and it works very well. What I did was to air-brush the fill on the area that's pitted, let it dry ( harden up ), sand the top coat flush and repeat until the pits are filled. Then, you can use whichever Dura-Coat color you prefer from pink to gloss black and bake it on at 200° for one hour.

 

[George P]

You could always use it to practice some color case hardening, ala Turnbull; if it fails, no great loss.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Go the other way and use some patina solution to give it the look it should have with all those pits. They make all sorts of colors.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

If it were mine I would apply traditional rust bluing to that gun. It is very easy and safe to do. It does take some time though.

 

[MihiT]

Colour case the frame, and the deepest hot blue the barrel/strap will take.