Lee FCD or seat/crimp die

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All correct, some bullets can be seated and crimped in the same die easily and without damage, doing just as good a job as seating/crimping separately, but some applications require a second step to crimp. And of course doing it separately is easier to set up and readjust later, although I wouldn't say it was hard to do in the same die. I'll post a link to an old crimping post of mine later.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-crimp-in-two-stages.623417/#post-7699828

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/universal-clays-and-357.511309/#post-6354182

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Walkalong is dead on here. A while back I was questioning some of my crimp die use. These threads with pictures set my mind at ease. Take the time to read them. Some day I hope to have as much knowledge as some folks here.

Jeff
 
Have a Marlin 336 .35rem

I have one of those also. I'm ready to start handloading for it but will wait now for the spring. For quite a long time (several years actually) brass was hard to find for 35 Remington, new or once fired. At a gun show a few weeks ago I scored about 150 pcs once fired and have 100 pcs from factory that I saved. So this and the fact that factory ammo for 35 Rem is about $35.00+/box of 20 around here have given me the boost I needed to get started with this caliber.

I'm going to start with Hornady Interlocks (200g RN #3515) and use Hodgdon Leverevolution, all of which I have in the bunker. I intend to prime and measure out each load and charge off press as I would not imagine that I will need 100s of rounds at the ready like I do for 9mm. It is rare that I shoot more than 20 rounds at a time with this gun but that is just me. My plan is to use a standard 2 die set, a FL resizing die and seat/crimp die. I don't invision this round needing much if any crimp. The bullets I have selected have a crimp ring so for now I will use that to select my COAL and use standard charge data from the Hornady manual. I kind of have my fingers crossed that nothing strange happens when I start this caliber as I really don't want to spend all kinds of time troubleshooting it given the small amount of time I spend shooting this gun.

I would be interested in seeing how you handload this caliber efficiently on an auto indexing press in small batches, that is assuming that your going to do small batches in the first place. My experience with bottle neck cartridges is limited mostly to .223 and I have found that since I'm using once fired mixed brass that I have to trim and deburr/chamfer my brass. That means I will handle the brass after resizing. I don't know if this will be the situation with 35 Remington but assume it will be.
 
I have one of those also. I'm ready to start handloading for it but will wait now for the spring. For quite a long time (several years actually) brass was hard to find for 35 Remington, new or once fired. At a gun show a few weeks ago I scored about 150 pcs once fired and have 100 pcs from factory that I saved. So this and the fact that factory ammo for 35 Rem is about $35.00+/box of 20 around here have given me the boost I needed to get started with this caliber.

I'm going to start with Hornady Interlocks (200g RN #3515) and use Hodgdon Leverevolution, all of which I have in the bunker. I intend to prime and measure out each load and charge off press as I would not imagine that I will need 100s of rounds at the ready like I do for 9mm. It is rare that I shoot more than 20 rounds at a time with this gun but that is just me. My plan is to use a standard 2 die set, a FL resizing die and seat/crimp die. I don't invision this round needing much if any crimp. The bullets I have selected have a crimp ring so for now I will use that to select my COAL and use standard charge data from the Hornady manual. I kind of have my fingers crossed that nothing strange happens when I start this caliber as I really don't want to spend all kinds of time troubleshooting it given the small amount of time I spend shooting this gun.

I would be interested in seeing how you handload this caliber efficiently on an auto indexing press in small batches, that is assuming that your going to do small batches in the first place. My experience with bottle neck cartridges is limited mostly to .223 and I have found that since I'm using once fired mixed brass that I have to trim and deburr/chamfer my brass. That means I will handle the brass after resizing. I don't know if this will be the situation with 35 Remington but assume it will be.

I'll probably remove the indexing rod and use the turret as a single stage until I get used to loading rifle. After I get all the stages down pat I'll put the rod back and use the auto indexing. I'll also be keeping my toes crossed hoping that Mr. Murphy S Law doesn't show his face and ruin a good thing. AJ B
 
Walkalong is dead on here. A while back I was questioning some of my crimp die use. These threads with pictures set my mind at ease. Take the time to read them. Some day I hope to have as much knowledge as some folks here.

Jeff
Jeff, what do you mean "Walkalong is dead on here"? He was/is a vast wealth of knowledge and freely pased it along!
 
Ya know - I read it exactly the same way - as if Walkalong wasn't posting here any more...

When I crimp, I crimp separately from my seating operation. I crimp for revolvers, autoloading rifles, and extreme recoil rifle cartridges (.416 Rem mag, .375 H&H, .458 Win Mag, .458 Lott, .416 Rigby, & .416 Ruger currently). No sense in crimping for standard bottleneck cartridges - tends to be more detrimental for accuracy than any benefit it might bring.
 
The Lee FCD only crimps a small portion of the neck. The lines from the collet should not go all the way down the neck. In the pic the shadow/reflection does, but not the crimp. You do have to have the die down enough to cause enough pressure for it to work.

View attachment 226363 View attachment 226364
Ill take a good look see at them next time i run a batch, thanks . Good pics btw! Nice and clear!
 
I know this post started with crimping the 25-06, and then morphed to the .35 Rem. With the small shoulder on the .35 Rem case, you might have to fire form the brass to your chamber if the primers back out a little bit. This happened to me with the .32 Rem, which also has a small shoulder to headspace on. This was all gone over in a previous post on the .32 Rem, .35 Rem, and .35 Whelan calibers.
 
<snip>

If the standard sizing die doesn't size necks enough to keep bullets in magazine rounds in place from recoil, use emery cloth in a drill spun expander ball to make its diameter .001" smaller.

Seems like that would make the sizing larger and the tension lower.
 
Seems like that would make the sizing larger and the tension lower.
If you polish the expander down .001 and the place it back in your die, the neck is expanded .001 less, thus creating more tension. He's not saying to grind the id of the case neck, but to effectively create your own undersized expander. I don't know how many companies offer them but Lee ships a "standard" mandrel, and offer a slight undersize and slight oversize for each die. Bart is saving you time/money. I've heard of several match shooters under sizing by .001 to get the best neck tension per load, especially when they seat em so long that sneezing would spill the powder lol.
 
I know this post started with crimping the 25-06, and then morphed to the .35 Rem. With the small shoulder on the .35 Rem case, you might have to fire form the brass to your chamber if the primers back out a little bit. This happened to me with the .32 Rem, which also has a small shoulder to headspace on. This was all gone over in a previous post on the .32 Rem, .35 Rem, and .35 Whelan calibers.

Didn't mind the morph, I have a Marlin (Remlin) 336C in 35REM. Just 1 less question when I get to reloading it! lol
 
If you polish the expander down .001 and the place it back in your die, the neck is expanded .001 less, thus creating more tension. He's not saying to grind the id of the case neck, but to effectively create your own undersized expander. I don't know how many companies offer them but Lee ships a "standard" mandrel, and offer a slight undersize and slight oversize for each die. Bart is saving you time/money. I've heard of several match shooters under sizing by .001 to get the best neck tension per load, especially when they seat em so long that sneezing would spill the powder lol.
You aren't speaking to what was actually written about a sizer. Your story about an expander makes sense though.
 
If the standard sizing die doesn't size necks enough to keep bullets in magazine rounds in place from recoil, use emery cloth in a drill spun expander ball to make its diameter .001" smaller.

Drill spinning the expander ball in/on Emery cloth would do exactly that and expand the internal neck diameter less.
 
Drill spinning the expander ball in/on Emery cloth would do exactly that and expand the internal neck diameter less.
If you say so, but his was not the English I speak. The subject implied was a sizer die. Thanks though. I got it.
 
It didn't imply sizer, it just didn't specify expander ball well. Sure, it could have been written better, but gee whiz.
 
It didn't imply sizer, it just didn't specify expander ball well. Sure, it could have been written better, but gee whiz.
The sentence subject "sizer" was still in effect because of the punctuation and grammar mess at "spun". Therefore it was implied. I would know.
 
Gelded full length sizing dies (those without balls) produce better accuracy and case life. Hone the die's neck out to a couple thousandths less than a loaded round's neck. There is no ball that typically bends case necks on its way out. And the neck size is only changed once; less work hardening of neck brass. And necks so sized are straighter on case shoulders. If you decap with this die, use an undersized expander ball on the die stem to hold the pin in place.

Almost all benchrest folks quit neck only sizing their cases about 8 years ago. Sierra has been full length sizing their cases used to test bullets' accuracy since the '50's. Nobody shoots them as accurate as they do.
 
And to a point Bart makes all the time, no, they aren't always tiny. Here are two targets, shot back to back (2nd & 3rd groups of the 5 group aggregate) with the same gun by the same shooter (Me) in relatively similar conditions at a match. I saved these two to remind me how important concentration was. I got ll five in the group on target 2 and let one hang out on target thee. A classic 4 &1. One lousy shot. The sure does hurt your agg. :)
 

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If one wants to see the range of 5- or 10-shot group sizes, the 'net has many benchrest group match results to learn the range of group sizes and the first one shot is seldom the smallest; or largest, for that matter. For example:

http://azbrs.com/matches/2016-lv-hv-cactus-classic/

Pick one to see all the group sizes for the range and competitor of choice.
 
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