My .36 conical design

[TheOutlawKid]

Rodwha, i too had the same issue with gatofeo lube being a bit soft to rub onto the bullets, would melt too fast etc...so solved the issue by stiffening it up by adding more beeswax...so equal parts of beeswax, tallow, and parrafin wax. Works better too...atleast for my application. I got my empty chapstick tubes on amazon, they were really inexpensive too. Sometimes while shooting ill just run the chapstick tube of lube against the arbor and use as arbor lube...works great. But now for arbor lube i use custom mix of 1/4 cold pressed cocoanut oil (the kind that is solid at room temp but melts as soon as u touch it) and 3/4 lanolin. Mix it together and put it in the small lip balm squeeze bottle applicators...now that mix works very good for arbor lube, keeps it running slick, ive even started using it to lube up the works inside my revolvers. I have a friend who uses my lube chap stick tubes to apply lube over the balls too...says its less messy and a fast easy applicator.

 

[Navy Six 2]

OK, Outlaw Kid. Finally got a break with the weather and spent the day casting your design. Ended up with about 1200 of them. I didn't intend to work that long--almost 5 hours--but Tom at Accurate outdid himself with the mold quality. That was the best casting mold I've ever used. It almost refused to make a rejected bullet. I finally had to stop when my back started complaining. Now I have to decide how I'm going to lube them. Since it's a tapered design, running it through the Lyman luberisizer will be a little sloppy, but I refuse to pan lube!
Got the first Cowboy match of the year this weekend. Cleanup for that will run me into next week and then I can start experimenting after that. If this design works out like I expect, I believe I owe you a beer. If it doesn't, I believe you owe me one for making me work this hard!!

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Lol will do. Yes tom makes amazing molds...i almost had no rejects when casting. As long as the lead temp is good then the mold definately does its part. Mine worked very smoothly and made clean cuts, his molds are made from top quality materials. As far as lubing the bullets the choice is urs. What powder and lube are u planning to use? I use gatofeo lube and also an adjusted version of all equal parts paraffin, mutton tallow, and beeswax...but thats when its hot out which is extreme due to my location. Ive also used emmerts lube with success. Tried pan lubing but usually i just make lip balm tube lube applicators. I explained it in an earlier post i believe.

 

[Navy Six 2]

Powder choice will normally be 3F Olde Enysford, probably 18-20 grs. I have been pretty satisfied with Gatofeo's lube which I have used for about 3 years now. However, I occasionally get a thick build-up of lube just below the forcing cone after about 30 rounds. I also sometime see globs of lube down range on the paper target when using straight lube(no wool wad) behind the ball. I also find Gatofeo's just a bit thick to flow through the luberisizer without extra pressure applied. No big deal, but this year I plan to experiment with somewhat softer mixtures which will include varying percentages of castor oil and neatsfoot oil. I weigh all ingredients. I will probably have to settle on two lube mixtures--one for hot and another for cold weather as many have recommended. Can't wait to get started!!

 

[44 Dave]

Being to cheap to buy a luberasizer heater I have mine bolted to a 1/4 plate and use a 200 watt magnetic heater (gets used for a lot of other things) to soften mu lube.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Ive actually had the same problem with excessive lube when i used wool wads and lube cookies...then i started using paper towels diped in lube instead of the thick wool wads...made a really thin lube pill. Worked great. I also experimented substituing the paper towel with baby wipe towelets...i just rinsed them clean and dried them. I dipped them in lube and made lube wads out of them..even made thick ones by folding the towellet in half to make it double layered. I use a certain type of babywipe...a thick cotton one that is the generic walmart brand...has to be the ones with aloe due to the material being different and very strong absorbent cottony fabric instead of paper towel. I also make cleaning jag squares with them...i rinse and dry them so that they are clean sheets and cut them into small squares to use as cleaning wads...they work great. They have a texture that helps clean the fouling and holds plenty of cleaner and lube....and now they can be used to make lube wads..some people prefer the thick wool that helps scrape fouling...these wont have the scraping effect but they will carry lots of lube and thickness can be adjusted by just stacking/folding the sheets.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Here are my thin lube pills made from emmerts lube dipped paper towels thathave been punched out using a 3/8ths inch punch for my .36 cal guns and dusted with corn starch to keep them from sticking together. These are thin but carry more than enough lube. Put these over the powder and These thin lube pills/wafers basically disintegrate in the chamber and coat the inside of the barrel. Nothing left to splatter on ur targets etc. This size of lube pill is all ive found thats really needed to lube a revolver. Saves lube too. The pic shows 5 lube pills in total...4 are laying down to show size and 1 is standing upright to show how thin it is.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

These are my lip balm containers filled with lube...i use them to rub against bullet groves to get them filled with lube and sometimes even just slide it against the mouth of a chamber to apply lube over the ball.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

These are the rinsed and dried baby wipes that i use to make cleaning squares out of...they are sometimes used to make lube pills too. U can see the texture they have..hold plenty of cleaner/lube/preservative and scrub inside the barrels safely...very innexpensive too. I make so many small sqaures out of just one sheet and an entire pack comes with 72 sheets i beleive...and for like less than 3 bucks. Has to be a certain type of wipe tho...as other wipes are made from a paper type material. These are cottony fabric...kinda like a loose weeved fibered fabric that is very super absorbent.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

These are lube wads/pills made with gatofeo lube...only instead of 1/8th inch thick wool im using the above mentioned rinsed and dried baby wipe sheets. They hold lots of lube but if u fold the sheet in half (or stack two sheets) u get a thicker wad/pill thats about the same size as the 8th inch wool wads...which can be split in half if desired such as to make more room for powder or due to wanting to conserve lube. In the pick i show a lube pill that is whole and the same size as a standard wool wad and beside it the same size pill but split in half.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Those are just some of the ideas ive used for my lube applications...but these new bullets require none of the above aside from the occasional lip balm lube application technique...they have very large lube grooves and hold gobs of lube. Either way i hope the pictures explained what i had been trying to describe in my previous posts about lube etc.

 

[Navy Six 2]

Outlaw Kid, thanks for posting the pictures--maybe one day I'll learn how to do it! Your ideas with the paper towels and wipes are interesting, especially since those materials are readily available. The lip balm containers are another great idea. Very portable and convenient. I will look for them on the internet. Thanks again.

 

[Navy Six 2]

OK Outlaw Kid, I spent the day shooting your design and since you asked for feedback, here it is:
I used two new(once fired) Uberti 61 Navies equipped with Slix Shot nipples. Load was 18gr 3F Olde Enysford. I ordered the top band of my mold at .378. At that size I could not get bullets seated in either gun without excessive force. I stopped trying. I then used a .375 sizing die in the Lyman lubrisizer while lubing them and they still were a bit tough to seat. This surprised me as .375 balls seat easily. I then installed a .372 sizing die. At that size they slipped in almost too easily and I was concerned that recoil might un-seat them. Uberti chamber mouths are supposed to be .372.
Shooting free hand at 10 yds, the .375s put the first 5 rounds right at point of aim with four of them actually touching. Blew the last shot about 3 in left. The .372s were similar but at about a 2 1/2 in group. Recoil had no effect and all .372 rounds remained at proper seating depth. I continued shooting the .375s in one gun and .372s in the other. Groups remained at about 2 1/2 in for both guns and very close to point of aim.
After about 30 rounds, and do to fouling buildup, the .375s became very hard to seat where I deformed the noses somewhat upon seating. Now the .372s were seating perfectly snug. Another 10 rounds each and I was ready to call it a day. A friend was with me and I joked, "I can't leave without the Bill Hickok test". He thought it was a great idea and we hung a 18X24 in steel plate and stepped off 75 yds. I think I used the .375s. Anyway, I hit the plate four straight. Aimed a little higher for #5( I didn't know where I was hitting) and missed. Went back to original hold and hit # 6.
So my initial impression was the .375s were a bit more accurate(at least in that particular gun), but the .372s would allow trouble free loading all day at a Cowboy match. I am very satisified! Thanks for posting all your information and this bullet design.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Thats great to hear! Are u using pure lead? Have u tried measuring ur bands? My top band measures .380 and they easily seat into stock pietta chambers at .367-.368 without issue..they go in as easy as round ball on my guns even in chambers that are stock and not reamed. They are easier to seat than .377 kaido conicals as well...Hmm...are u using a harder lead alloy? Im glad ur hickok test was a success!