Brass frame just arrived and I may have to send it back for a replacement. Unless I jerk the hammer back really hard it will not lock back in the firing position. If it's a simple fix I might just do it but I don't know what to look for. Any Ideas?
Pietta 1851 Colt Navy
- Thread starter kje54
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1KPerDay
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I'd speculate but that would be a waste of time. Personally I'd send it to @Jackrabbit1957 for his timing/tuning services which are WELL WORTH IT. Or send it back. This is one reason I try to buy capguns in person.
OS/N
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You can check the bolt/trigger set spring. I had one break the first time I washed the revolver. If you push forward on the trigger and the hammer locks the bolt spring maybe damaged. Also, if it gets put together wrong or used with a loose screw and the spring drops below the screw shoulder it can break if you tighten the screw without getting things lined up first. The bolt springs are not to costly and you can get to it by removing the lower frame section.
Might check the hammer spring also for proper alignment or breakage. It is under the one piece grip. A roller on the hammer pushes down on top of the spring in a detent.
If you recently bought it and didn't monkey with it they should swap it out without too much issue since there is no s/n or backcheck involved.
Might check the hammer spring also for proper alignment or breakage. It is under the one piece grip. A roller on the hammer pushes down on top of the spring in a detent.
If you recently bought it and didn't monkey with it they should swap it out without too much issue since there is no s/n or backcheck involved.
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Eyrie G. Dogg
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Send it back and get a steel frame.
Don't worry, I was gonna put it on a torture rack and pre-stretch the frame.........
OS/N
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If you shot it and it started doing it then you may have a piece of cap down in the hammer/trigger workings.
If you point it up when cocking fired caps roll out easier but you can still get pieces of brass caps in it from time to time. Wearing glasses is a good idea when shooting ball and cap revolvers - caps pieces go everywhere.
Most of the time you can work em out but sometimes you have to take it apart and clean the pieces out.
If you point it up when cocking fired caps roll out easier but you can still get pieces of brass caps in it from time to time. Wearing glasses is a good idea when shooting ball and cap revolvers - caps pieces go everywhere.
Most of the time you can work em out but sometimes you have to take it apart and clean the pieces out.
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Brand new from DGW, started a detail disassembly to check all the parts, clean an maybe stone anything that obviously needed it. Thanks for the advice but I've owned a few cap and ball revolvers, first revolver I ever bought was an 1851 Colt Navy kit back in my late 20s.
None of the internals are broken, everything in it's place and I did a little stoning on the base of the trigger. Cleaned all the shipping grease off it and hit all the necessary parts with some Hoppe's oil. Put it back together and it's working much better but still occasionally doesn't catch on full cock but will if I pull the hammer back again. It wouldn't do that before. So I'll pull it back apart later and double check everything.
Jackrabbit1957
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I have to agree on the brass frames, they aren't gonna hold up for long shooting full house loads. This one sounds like it needs some attention. I replace the flat combination spring with music wire torsion type springs and add a cap post and action shield and action stop. The barrel/ cylinder gap should also be adjusted as close to .002 as one can get it. This will help with the cylinder not acting like a slide hammer. PM me if you would like to discuss it further.
I've owned and shot (full recommended loads) both steel and brass framed cap and ball revolvers for at least 25 years and the brass frame stretch myth never once raised it ugly head........ Funny how that works. As for needing some attention........ It took me a while (all of about a second or two) to figure that out on my own........
hawg
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It's not stretch, it's battering and it's real. I almost ruined a .36 Remington with 25 grain loads.
Never had that problem. You must have shot your a lot more than I shot mine. Besides I never went more than 15 grains FFFg in my brass 36s.
armoredman
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Ditto on Jackrabbit, I have personal experience with him repairing two of my revolvers, VERY good work.
As for brass frame Pietta, I have one in 44 - I never go over 20 grains of FFF, but then again, I shoot it very infrequently. It was a welcome gift a few years ago.
As for brass frame Pietta, I have one in 44 - I never go over 20 grains of FFF, but then again, I shoot it very infrequently. It was a welcome gift a few years ago.
45 Dragoon
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Yet you don't know what the problem is
!! I could tell ya ( so could Jackrabbit1957), but why ruin it !!! (you're the one asking, a little "dignity" would go a long way . . .)Mike
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A little less lecturing/personal preference and a little more focus on the problem my op is about would go a long way also. If I wanted opinions on brass vs steel framed I would have asked for it.Yet you don't know what the problem is
Mike
dickydalton
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45 Dragoon
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Funny.
Didn't lecture on anything and didn't say anything regarding brass or steel.
Just said I know what the problem is and I'm sure Jackrabbit1957 does too. Again, you're the one asking for help . . . Only took me a second to figure out what is wrong . . .
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Then what's the problem and how do I fix it?
1KPerDay
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hawg
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No. I actually didn't fire it very many times. Your statement of 15 grains is a direct contradiction of what you said before.
Like I said it's not stretch, it's battering. This is my .36 Remington. You can see the cylinder ratchet is imprinted into the recoil shield.
This isn't mine. The frame on the left is a new Colt frame. Those notches in the recoil ring on the frame on the right aren't supposed to be there.
If you're referring to "full recommended loads", I was told eons ago it was 15 grains max for brass framed 36 caliber revolvers.No. I actually didn't fire it very many times. Your statement of 15 grains is a direct contradiction of what you said before.
Like I said it's not stretch, it's battering. This is my .36 Remington. You can see the cylinder ratchet is imprinted into the recoil shield.
This isn't mine. The frame on the left is a new Colt frame. Those notches in the recoil ring on the frame on the right aren't supposed to be there.
But all of this has nothing to do with what I asked about the hammer issue so I would appreciate it if we let it drop and focus on fixing my revolver's problem.
Folks, I understand people are trying to be helpful but the thread is about a hammer cocking issue and not about the merits and negatives of brass framed revolvers. My apologies if I got a little snippy, could we move on from here?
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