Brass frame just arrived and I may have to send it back for a replacement. Unless I jerk the hammer back really hard it will not lock back in the firing position. If it's a simple fix I might just do it but I don't know what to look for. Any Ideas?
Don't worry, I was gonna put it on a torture rack and pre-stretch the frame.........Send it back and get a steel frame.
Brand new from DGW, started a detail disassembly to check all the parts, clean an maybe stone anything that obviously needed it. Thanks for the advice but I've owned a few cap and ball revolvers, first revolver I ever bought was an 1851 Colt Navy kit back in my late 20s.If you shot it and it started doing it then you may have a piece of cap down in the hammer/trigger workings.
If you point it up while cocking caps roll out easier but you can still get pieces of brass caps in it from time to time.
Most of the time you can work em out but sometimes you have to take it apart and clean it out.
I've owned and shot (full recommended loads) both steel and brass framed cap and ball revolvers for at least 25 years and the brass frame stretch myth never once raised it ugly head........ Funny how that works. As for needing some attention........ It took me a while (all of about a second or two) to figure that out on my own........I have to agree on the brass frames, they aren't gonna hold up for long shooting full house loads. This one sounds like it needs some attention. I replace the flat combination spring with music wire torsion type springs and add a cap post and action shield and action stop. The barrel/ cylinder gap should also be adjusted as close to .002 as one can get it. This will help with the cylinder not acting like a slide hammer. PM me if you would like to discuss it further.
I've owned and shot (full recommended loads) both steel and brass framed cap and ball revolvers for at least 25 years and the brass frame stretch myth never once raised it ugly head........ Funny how that works. As for needing some attention........ It took me a while (all of about a second or two) to figure that out on my own........
Never had that problem. You must have shot your a lot more than I shot mine. Besides I never went more than 15 grains FFFg in my brass 36s.It's not stretch, it's battering and it's real. I almost ruined a .36 Remington with 25 grain loads.
Yet you don't know what the problem is !! I could tell ya ( so could Jackrabbit1957), but why ruin it !!! (you're the one asking, a little "dignity" would go a long way . . .)I've owned and shot (full recommended loads) both steel and brass framed cap and ball revolvers for at least 25 years and the brass frame stretch myth never once raised it ugly head........ Funny how that works. As for needing some attention........ It took me a while (all of about a second or two) to figure that out on my own........
A little less lecturing/personal preference and a little more focus on the problem my op is about would go a long way also. If I wanted opinions on brass vs steel framed I would have asked for it.Yet you don't know what the problem is !! I could tell ya ( so could Jackrabbit1957), but why ruin it !!! (you're the one asking, a little "dignity" would go a long way . . .)
Mike
Funny.A little less lecturing/personal preference and a little more focus on the problem my op is about would go a long way also. If I wanted opinions on brass vs steel framed I would have asked for it.
Then what's the problem and how do I fix it?Funny.
Didn't lecture on anything and didn't say anything regarding brass or steel.
Just said I know what the problem is and I'm sure Jackrabbit1957 does too. Again, you're the one asking for help . . .
Never had that problem. You must have shot your a lot more than I shot mine. Besides I never went more than 15 grains FFFg in my brass 36s.
I've owned and shot (full recommended loads) both steel and brass framed cap and ball revolvers for at least 25 years and the brass frame stretch myth never once raised it ugly head........ Funny how that works. As for needing some attention........ It took me a while (all of about a second or two) to figure that out on my own........
If you're referring to "full recommended loads", I was told eons ago it was 15 grains max for brass framed 36 caliber revolvers.No. I actually didn't fire it very many times. Your statement of 15 grains is a direct contradiction of what you said before.
Like I said it's not stretch, it's battering. This is my .36 Remington. You can see the cylinder ratchet is imprinted into the recoil shield.
This isn't mine. The frame on the left is a new Colt frame. Those notches in the recoil ring on the frame on the right aren't supposed to be there.