Planned Modifications for my 66.

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George Hill

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I’ve decided I am going to keep my .357 Magnum, the S&W model 66. I was going to trade it off for a Browning Buckmark, and as much as I want a Buckmark… It’s a bad move. This 66 is a FINE example of a .357 Magnum revolver. The action feels so smooth and the trigger is so fine… The single action breaks so crisp, it’s like a thin glass rod. I’m thinking it’s breaking someplace around two and a half to three pounds. Yeah, I am keeping it. However in it’s current configuration of a 4 inch barrel and a “square-butt†grip frame, it’s just not a packin gun to me. I am packing Saint Wesson (the 696) all the time and never the .357 anymore. I am going to have the barrel cut down to just under 3 inches, have an aggressive target crown cut into it, and have the grip frame recut to fit some nice wood boot-grips. I’m also thinking about having the stainless frame bead blasted, and have the trigger, hammer and cylinder all polished. Front sight will be a gold bead. That’s what I am going to have done to it for my birthday. Then instead of calling it my Agent Smith, I’m going to call it my Precious.
 
Before you go to all of that trouble (and expense) take the grips off of the gun and then slip it into your waistband with the back of the cylinder even with your belt. You may be able to solve the concealment issue with nothing more then a set of slimmer grips and a good IWB holster. The gold-bead front sight is a good idea, and you should go with it. The barrel can be shortened by an inch, and yes it will help a little when it comes to concealment, but the longer barrel offers better balance and performance. The square butt isn't that much larger, but put on a set of "fat grips" and it will seem so.
 
Here's an ex-square butt Model 66 that has been round-butted. Hammer bobbed, lockwork converted to DAO, trigger job by Clark Custom, and fitted with a grip adapter for maximum concealability with good controllability.

I think I'll continue the modifications by having it converted to moonclip use next.

I agree....the M66 is a fine example of .357 Magnums. The 4" RB is perhaps the best all-round wheelgun ever made.

sw66_l.JPG
 
Speaking as at least a beginner holstermaker specializing in IWB:

The 4" barrel ain't bad as long as you're at least...well, call it 5'8" or taller. Maybe 5'10". There's even an advantage: you can keep the cylinder itself right under the belt instead of underneath.

Err...what I mean is, a lot of IWB rigs try and drop the gun "deep". They're often doing that because they've got only one belt attachment "dead center". That piles on too much of the HOLSTER'S thickness on top of the gun's thickness at the cylinder if the cylinder was under the belt.

A proper IWB rig can have one attachment at the rear of the holster, or one either side of the gun like I use. A single center-mount belt attachment should be avoided, in my opinion. On any gun.

Here's an early prototype of mine where I did it the other way on a snubbie:

both.jpg

cacloseup.jpg

On the lower pic, look at where the belt is: crossing the area between the grips and cylinder. On a snubbie, this makes sense but on a 4" barrel, it's possible to come "up" higher and have the belt cross the cylinder. This works SO LONG as there isn't a center-mounted belt connection.

I believe Tucker is doing the same basic thing with his revolver rigs. Some of the single-belt-connection rigs have that belt connection adjustable vertically along the main body of the holster, so you could bring it up further and get this effect.

However you do it, the net result is that you've got only 4" or so worth of gun lower than the bottom edge of the belt, on a 4" barrel wheelgun.

And that's perfectly practical.

Here's what I mean by "single clip, off center to rear":

undershirt.jpg


(See also Dave Workman's holsters: http://www.defensetactics.com/dandd.htm - very good leatherwork.)
 
TFL underwear... Jim, I didn't know Correia made any of those. Coolness!

I'm wondering who would give me a decent deal on this work... There are only 2 reputable gunsmiths in Utah, so I might send it out to a big name. I'm set on smaller grips... not just thinner. So the round butt modification is required... I'm wondering if I could even take them down to J-frame size. That would carry well, and still shoot pretty good too I would think.

I am loving the 3 inch barrel length. Doesn't give up much against the 4 in accuracy or energy, and you can hit with it just as good. I just have a preference. That and it will match the 696 better so the guns feel more "family".
Besides, I have to get it recrowned anyways... has some mars in it that could be effecting the accuracy a bit.

Does anyone have a 3 inch round fanny 66?
 
3" M66s are somewhat rare. The M65 is far more common in that barrel length, but that's a fixed-sight gun. You may be able to find a 3" M65 barrel (without underlug), or an M65LS barrel (with underlug) on eBay or directly from S&W.
 
Here's an ex-square butt Model 66 that has been round-butted. Hammer bobbed, lockwork converted to DAO, trigger job by Clark Custom, and fitted with a grip adapter for maximum concealability with good controllability.
Click to expand...

What did the round butt conversion cost you? I have a cherry 586 that I absolutely love, except for the fact that is a SB frame......very interested in the RB conversion.
 
George, the only thing wrong with that 66 when you get done is it will still be stainless,:D :D otherwise it sounds like a seriously nice packing gun. Full moon clips are all that is left that makes any sense. I like your plan, I like the mods you have picked, and I can't find a dang thing wrong with the whole deal. In my opinion it will be superb for what you want to do with it.

PS, if you haven't shoot a round butt gun recently track one down to shoot and your square butt gun back to back. They have a slightly different "grip angle" for lack of the proper terms. If you point shoot well with the 66 now the round butt will hit quite a bit lower, it does for me anyway. I find the round butt K-frame to be the best "pointing" wheelgun in existance. The difference can be surprising to some people.

Mark, VERY nice. I would appreciate a post or something detailing the moonclip conversion if you have it done, it is something I am seriously considering.
 
Last time I checked, S&W had 3" barrels available for the Model 66 at $105. You might be able to buy one from them, or get your gunsmith to do so.

The revolver that Marko pictured used to be mine. I had it "done" at Clark Custom Guns, whom I highly recommend for revolver work. The square butt was re-shaped to round butt configuration, the action was converted to DA only and the hammer spur removed, and a "service" action job was performed (do NOT get the "target" action job - it's so extreme that reliability for carry purposes is not guaranteed!).

Clark charges $95 for a square-to-round-butt conversion (send them the grips you want to use, so that they can insure a good fit). They charge $70 for a service action job, and an additional $15 to bob the hammer as part of the action job ($30 if done separately). They charge $30 for a DA-only conversion. They also do a moon clip conversion. (See here for their revolver services and prices.)
 
The 4" mod 66 was my first duty weapon and when I replaced at with a Colt Python, I opted to use the 66 as an off duty carry piece. (Money was a little tight) Like you I found the square butt grips hindered concealment. Without the grips, the square butt itself didn't present any problems. My solution, again based on economics was to take a stock set of S&W K frame grips and an assortment of files and sandpaper, and pare them down to the point wwhere they were smooth and contoured so as to offer a decent hold, but thin enough to be undetectable under a T-Shirt. I used this setup until my department entered the 20th century and authorized Semi Autos.

I think I still have the grips.If I can find them I will photo and post. As I remember, the hardest job was shortening the grip screw and bushing.
 
OK, I have another question on the conversion. My 586 is blued, of course, and the backstrap is serrated....will they replace, or do away with, the serrations, and how much extra, guesstimate, would it cost to have the bluing done to match?
 
A friend in the Brit. SAS once ask me to duplicate the Colt Detective Special grip configuration on a S&W Military & Police with - would you believe it - three-inch barrel. At first I didn't think it could be done, but after looking into the matter I discovered it could. It turned out to be a handy little six-shooter.

While you can round the butt of a S&W K-frame you can't shorten it much because of the way the mainspring is located.
 
While I have a S&W 13 3" and it makes for a great carry gun I have been messing with this 586, I have removed half of the lug and replaced the big old target grips with some that I butchered to a smaller size. I have not quite finished with the grips as I want to make them more of a Coke bottle effect and finish taking the corner off of the bottom of the grip frame and make it a half round butt. I like the way a Square butt frame fits my hand, kind of like the way an arched mainspring housing does in a 1911.
I am still debating on Moonclips.


my586.jpg
 
I'm not sure I like the moon clips. I've packed wheelguns before and I'm perfectly comfortable with speed loaders. So I don't think the moonclip this is a requirement for me.

Stainless... I know... I was wanting blued... don't rub it in.
 
IMHO, you should sell the 4"/SB & locate

a RB 3". You'd spend a LOT less money, for one. Second, you wouldn't have the unbalanced look of the rollmarks being right up against the muzzle on each side. Then, you could find a 'stock' set of boot-grips of your choice. The deep crown and polishing work would be the only out-of-pocket left to do that you mention.
 
I went at it the other way.
I put a 4" barrel and full length ejector rod on a RB M19, replacing the 2.5".
Nice, but I now doubt worth the trouble and expense.
 
That gold line looks interesting, but I've never shot one of those. Used to the dots... but that is a good option.

Roundbutt guns feel better in my hand. They just do. That's why I'm wanting it. Some nice wood is great, but it's not about the wood. It's about the shape as it meets my hand. That's the important part.
 
"OK, I have another question on the conversion. My 586 is blued, of course, and the backstrap is serrated....will they replace, or do away with, the serrations, and how much extra, guesstimate, would it cost to have the bluing done to match?"

liliysdad:

I was told by Clark Custom that part of the serrations would remain, and that the frame would be re-blued. Runs about a hundred bucks total.
 
Your M66

George,

I'm with the Orange County Sheriff's Office in Florida. We used to be issued S%W M66 4" before we switched to bottom feeders. Now we are issued Glocks.

I am looking for M66 with my agency markings on the gun. Is yours one of them. Please let me know. I am here referred to by a member in the S&W forum which I frequent.

Thanks,

Carlos
 
Sorry, Carlos... no department markings.
If you give me the serial number ranges, I could tell you if this gun is in that range... but there are no department markings.
 
Re: M66

George,

I have no serial # ranges as I am searching for, in general, for a M66 4" with Orange County Sheriff's Office markings on it. We used to get this type hgun issued as early as the 1980's. We are now issued glocks.

I have a M66 4" no dash but looking for an agency issued M66.

Thannks, though,

Carlos
 
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