ColtPythonElite
Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 10,477
I'll bet it took more than a minute or two of hammer time to peel back the top on that safe.
Easy to Pry, easy to beat open with a hammer, and easy to whack open with an axe. This attack was done with that hammer in the picture in less than 3 minutes by beating on the top seam of the safe. The body was skip welded.
Eh, there are enough tools at my house to open even the toughest gun safe. I guess I might need to get another safe to lock the tools up in.
I think the dealer that posted the photos is being a bit disingenuous, because it appears he's selling safes using the same thin materials (either Liberty or Champion based on the boxed safes in the background). They may not have the same welding weakness, but the thin steel is the same. This is the true weakness.
Now truely this was a guy in need of a much needed talk to a safe and vault expert if there ever was.
If things go our way in the arbitration I'm thinking of splurging on a Patriot "Closet LEO 18-Gun" or "24 Gun Protector" 2-hr safe. Any thoughts?
Are Steelwater safes made in America?
Anybody know which is harder to get through...a 1/4 thick steel door plate (2.5" thick overall) or a 4" thick composite door with 10 gauge steel?