Thx! I read that now as well. Getting parts together to simulate LW's indoor light rig.
Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy
Cobalt, I'm planning to obtain a 105B. As I began the search, I found variations.
What is the model designation on your 105 buck? 105B, 1105, 2105 or something else? I also assume it is stamped "Made in China" correct?
On the first page of this thread, you posted parts break downs, "thanks!". The info shows a 105B. I wonder if there are differences between the early 105B's and your Buck...
It appears that the 105B's were produced from 1979 - 1998. I would like to get one of these to modify. I hope to get a 499 shot tube soon. I'm beginning to believe they have greater potential than the 1938b, due to a design difference in the spring anchor position.
Thx!
What is the model designation on your 105 buck? 105B, 1105, 2105 or something else? I also assume it is stamped "Made in China" correct?
On the first page of this thread, you posted parts break downs, "thanks!". The info shows a 105B. I wonder if there are differences between the early 105B's and your Buck...
It appears that the 105B's were produced from 1979 - 1998. I would like to get one of these to modify. I hope to get a 499 shot tube soon. I'm beginning to believe they have greater potential than the 1938b, due to a design difference in the spring anchor position.
Thx!
If you look closely at the side elevation drawings of the 105B and the 1938B, you can see that the 105 anchor is perpendicular to the axis of the barrel. The 1938 anchor is tilted, maybe 5-7deg. That tilt puts an uneven load on the spring. I would suggest that upon spring release, an oscillation would occur that would both slow the plunger and lose accuracy. The 105, being perpendicular, will, naturally have a smoother, more linear release. Your results of shooting both suggest this observation might have some merit.
What say you?
What say you?
I have the Model 105B Buck, as currently sold as the Buck at Walmart, etc. It’s stamped Made in China.
The 2105 has a fiber optic front sight but otherwise is the same as the current 105B as far as I know.
I have a Model 1105, it has the transitional steel 2-piece trigger shown elsewhere in this thread, and it has a safety mounted through the receiver, not built into the trigger like the "B" models all have. It uses the old removable shot tube, and is NOT stamped made in China.
None of these ‘shorties’ have an adjustable rear sight.
I’m curious about your take on the spring anchor advantage you see w/the 105B; I’ve compared the 105B to the RR and don’t see any difference between the two except in the length of the shroud and shot tube, forward of the abutment- but that’s why having more than one person looking at things helps!
The 2105 has a fiber optic front sight but otherwise is the same as the current 105B as far as I know.
I have a Model 1105, it has the transitional steel 2-piece trigger shown elsewhere in this thread, and it has a safety mounted through the receiver, not built into the trigger like the "B" models all have. It uses the old removable shot tube, and is NOT stamped made in China.
None of these ‘shorties’ have an adjustable rear sight.
I’m curious about your take on the spring anchor advantage you see w/the 105B; I’ve compared the 105B to the RR and don’t see any difference between the two except in the length of the shroud and shot tube, forward of the abutment- but that’s why having more than one person looking at things helps!
Well, it should be easy enough to tweak the anchor- or even make a new one from flat stock- that met the spring squarely if need be, but I think the original anchor could be reused after bending it to correct what you're seeing. I'll take a closer look at mine and see how 'crooked' things are.
Cobalt327,
Just wanted to drop in on your turf here and thank you for the advice and idea to get a 499 shooting 409-414 fps.
For others here,.. I just used the Red Ryder spring. I also did something different in that I used the Red Ryder piston/seal. I plugged the hole with a silicone plug (from powder coating). I also trimmed the front lip of the seal with a new razor blade. I put a 45 degree angle to the flat front and cut it within a half millimeter of the seal edge. The idea being was to add some additional flexibility the sealing edge/lip. Trigger pull remained at 2# 6oz. and the cocking effort went from 5.5# to 10.5#. Still smooth and easy. Accuracy was unchanged and in fact improved if anything. I shot my best 10 shot group ever at 24' which was 3/8".
Nice site here and looks like lots of good info. My usual haunt is the Air Gun Academy over at the Pyramid Air site. I go there and post daily. Check out the 5-5-17 article in the comment section for some added details. (I do well just to hit that one, so don't look for me too much here). I will try to check in from time to time though.
A big hat's off and a big thanks to Cobalt327 once again. The 499 tune is well worth the time and effort and has no doubt increased it's effective range.
Just wanted to drop in on your turf here and thank you for the advice and idea to get a 499 shooting 409-414 fps.
For others here,.. I just used the Red Ryder spring. I also did something different in that I used the Red Ryder piston/seal. I plugged the hole with a silicone plug (from powder coating). I also trimmed the front lip of the seal with a new razor blade. I put a 45 degree angle to the flat front and cut it within a half millimeter of the seal edge. The idea being was to add some additional flexibility the sealing edge/lip. Trigger pull remained at 2# 6oz. and the cocking effort went from 5.5# to 10.5#. Still smooth and easy. Accuracy was unchanged and in fact improved if anything. I shot my best 10 shot group ever at 24' which was 3/8".
Nice site here and looks like lots of good info. My usual haunt is the Air Gun Academy over at the Pyramid Air site. I go there and post daily. Check out the 5-5-17 article in the comment section for some added details. (I do well just to hit that one, so don't look for me too much here). I will try to check in from time to time though.
A big hat's off and a big thanks to Cobalt327 once again. The 499 tune is well worth the time and effort and has no doubt increased it's effective range.
Hi Chris and thanks for making it over here! I couldn't be happier that your 499 has performed up to your expectations (and my 'hype'!). BTW, if for some reason you have yours back apart, if possible take a photo of your modified Red Ryder piston.
You've probably seen where hinz57 has a modified Red Ryder shooting well above my original target of 450 fps, his uses a Model 25 barrel in a Red Ryder abutment(!). Much good stuff yet to come, too- so don't be a stranger!
You've probably seen where hinz57 has a modified Red Ryder shooting well above my original target of 450 fps, his uses a Model 25 barrel in a Red Ryder abutment(!). Much good stuff yet to come, too- so don't be a stranger!
Cobalt327,
I have no way of taking pictures, but for a man with your talent,.. you can look at the RR seal and see pretty quickly what I did. While the back of the lip has a nice taper,. the front has a flat edged surface about 2mm wide,.. and about 2mm tall. I just trimmed that to a 45 degree angle to the bottom of the lower face and made sure to leave about a half a mm up top so as not to disturb the factory seal edge. I think the whole concept worked well. I was glad to back you up and again thank you for your help in achieving it.
While I have not read through all the back postings,... I see that your dream gun would be a repeating 499. Be sure to hop over the AA blog and give me an update from time to time. I will tell you though,.. I am pretty darn happy with what I have ended up with.
And back at ya,... don't be stranger.
I see this site has a few more "features" to use,.. none of which I am all that familiar with, but I am learning some new stuff at work so it is not totally foreign to me. I did manage a cool looking (blue) smiley face though.Thank you Chris for the kind words, but I believe you give me way too much credit! But I'll mull this over as I look aty a seal and will see if I can get it in my head right.
One question though: Is the area where you're trimming inside the piston, so the cut surface doesn't actually contact the chamber wall?
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Thank you Chris for the kind words, but I believe you give me way too much credit! But I'll mull this over as I look aty a seal and will see if I can get it in my head right.
One question though: Is the area where you're trimming inside the piston, so the cut surface doesn't actually contact the chamber wall?
Cobalt,
You got it! That edge. Trim that to bottom of the of the next flat surface (45 degrees) and leave about a half mm of flat surface on the front. With that strong back taper on the seal (less cocking effort and more flexibility at front seal edge), that added trim job further adds to the flexibility and ease of sealing.
The 499 barrel and the 0.173 tubing is with my brother. He had made a barrel extension and is turning a bit of one end down to 0.263, so that it will work in the RR. Also making the new "high volume air tubes. It will be a few days to get the parts back.
I think I will give that a try on the RR project. Thx for that idea!
No big deal. What I did to post the photo was right click on the image, click on properties than copy/paste the addy to the field that appears when you click on the photo icon of the top toolbar of the post box.
The address (in case I'm not being clear) looks like: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?attachments/img_0260-jpg.234408/. In your case the address will be available to you from the hosting site when you upload the image.
