Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Hi Terry,
Not confused…intrigued!
The answer is always there, sometimes it’s just a puzzle to find it.
But you, sir, are plowing brand new ground on a design that hasn’t changed much in the last hundred years…and for tool geeks and tinkerers like me, it’s amazing !
For what it’s worth, congrats. on what you’ve accomplished so far, and I look forward to seeing what’s next.
Before I forget, I saw the vid. showing the peep sight you put on the long rifle, and that is an impressive piece of work indeed ! (just curious, how long did it take to design and build ?)

Rex
 
Thanks Rex much appreciated.
I actually draw most of the parts I make on the computer using a program called Inkscape, it allows me to draw them in actual size so I know they will fit together and hopefully work?
It may take an hour or it may take day's or weeks?
On another note I recieved the parts I was waiting on today and it's looking really good for the next step of this new barrel.
I hope to get some time to work on it tomorrow
I will be taking pictures and hopefully make a couple of videos of this one.
All I can say rite now is sharpen up your tools and get ready to tinker !
Your gonna like this one!
Oh yea, almost forgot ........thanks Mark !!!!
Terry
 
You're welcome, Terry. I was in too much of a hurry and didn't send a new complete one with it, so it went out today. I figure it's the least I can do considering all the info and eye candy entertainment you provide!
 
Mark you shouldn't have, I got just what I needed and it's a good thing I waited for the parts you sent as the parts I have are all modified and wouldn't have fit anything?
It's starting to come together quiet well with the parts you sent.
My intentions are to make this conversion as simple as possible using simple tools that most people will have in there shop or easily attainable though the interweb for little money.
Not sure it will work but I'm Still looking for a spring, needs to be about 4mm O.D. or in the .175 to.180 range and I think a compression spring? I'm not a spring guy so I'm not sure? (it needs to spring back when compressed)
Problem with the spring thing is "it takes up BB space" in the tube so ya go from 45BB's to maybe 35 or 25, not sure?
Terry
 
That's fine on the shot tube- it'll come in handy for something one day, I'm sure!

I'll check my parts for a suitable spring or barring that, a source for one. Bound to be something suitable out there somewhere...
 
Terry, I have had nothing but problems with my email- Outlook is my carrier, and they are the worst ever! I'll send you an email, if you can, reply to it and hopefully I'll get it. And I apologize for the inconvenience.
 
I'm coming into this late. For some reason my notification weren't coming through.
Terry I'm going to have to go back and read your entries from they start but from what I've seen on this page your really on to something. Very impressive velocities. Your videos are just great. Thanks for letting us follow what your doing.
Have you done any accuracy test at the velocities your shooting?
 
Same here re notifications for new replies- nada...

Terry, that's impressive to say the least! It figures there'd be some power losses due to the built-in air leaks the standard repeater shot tubes have, but I wouldn't have thought that much was being wasted.

On a related note, Shane has a video of one of Terry's sealed repeater shot tubes that does a great job of increasing power (Shane has dubbed it "Terry's 'Warp Speed' shot tube")! Check it out here:

 
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Cvans said:
I'm coming into this late. For some reason my notification weren't coming through.
Terry I'm going to have to go back and read your entries from they start but from what I've seen on this page your really on to something. Very impressive velocities. Your videos are just great. Thanks for letting us follow what your doing.
Have you done any accuracy test at the velocities your shooting?
Click to expand...

Thank you Sir:
I have found the guns to be tack drivers up to around 25 to 30 feet, when ya get out to 35-40 feet the groups start to spread a little.
I can shoot a 3/4" to 1-1/4" group with my 95 or my long rifle but it only shoots at around 450-460 fps.(of course there is always a flyer to spoil it)
I will tell you I have gone through a "tin can" with my model 95 at a distance of 95 feet, at 40 feet it will blow through both sides.
Hope this answers your question?

Terry
 
Grayrock said:
OK Terry- you better start ramping up production capabilities. I bet a lot of people will be wanting one of these, myself included.
Click to expand...

No I'm to old for another business and I'm not doing this for the money I'm just having fun trying to make them go better.

If your speaking about the model 25 shot tube, I was thinking maybe Colbalt327 ( he is in the parts business) may put together a kit with all the parts and directions for one great price ?
I don't know if he's up for that or not ?
There is a way to put the 25ST into a 1938B RR and I'm pretty sure colbalt327 can supply the parts for that conversion.
I posted another video yesterday on how I do the M25ST, have a look.
Terry

 
cobalt327 said:
I hadn't planned on selling any of it but if I'm asked I might consider hooking them up at cost.
Click to expand...

OK that's a start, I can post links to the two parts that I used from Amazon, other than glue and tools all the rest of the parts came from Colbalt327
So here ya go .....................
The brass tubing

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Lengt...=B07Z9BM64G&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_i

Ans the little rubber peg hook condoms...................

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H5V4P1R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Hope this helps?
Terry
 
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Thanks Terry- I've made a note of that. I apologize in advance if this has already been covered, but do you recall the diameter of the BB feed port that you made into the end of the tubing that sleeves the magazine? Or is it mentioned in any of your videos?
 
I used the long drill bit from HF to mark the ST cap as you call it, I call it the muzzle. Then use either a 5mm or 3/16" drill for the hole through it.
I forget witch is smaller 5mm or 3/16 but I would drill smaller first and check the fit.
You want it to be snug and I would leave the fill tube sticking out of the muzzle just a little.
Also to speed up the BB filling process I put the rubber plug into the shot tube as I'm filling and that keeps the BB from going down the wrong hole .
The picture is from Amazon web page and has the data,
Hope this helps?
Terry.

510k7yBttuL._AC_SL1001_.jpg
 
Cvans said:
I'm coming into this late. For some reason my notification weren't coming through.
Terry I'm going to have to go back and read your entries from they start but from what I've seen on this page your really on to something. Very impressive velocities. Your videos are just great. Thanks for letting us follow what your doing.
Have you done any accuracy test at the velocities your shooting?
Click to expand...
I found this picture of a target from a few months back, may give ya an idea if the accuracy ?
Terry

DSCF3411.JPG
 
Terry,

Great modification to the model 25 shot tube.

Two questions for you:

1. Can/do you remove the air tube from the gun if you do this mod? It seems like you have just created a Model 499 if it works without the air tube. I am consistently stunned how fast my Model 499 rifle is with only a shimmed 499 spring. The air tube seems to really slow things down.

2. Have you tried doing this mod without doing the epoxy filler to more fully seal up the air gaps? I was curious how much the gluing helped with velocity because that is the part I am most concerned about screwing up, so if the gain was minimal I would not take the risk.
 
You may ask Shane Bruce over at RestoMod Daisy about question number one ?
He has the ST that I made and is doing some testing on it, I think Colbalt327 was getting into the 360's with it when he had it, you may also ask him ?
I don't use an air tube in my guns, so all of my guns are kinda like the 499 but all are heavily modified, most people don't like the single shot concept for some reason ?
So that's how this all started, I decided to try my hand at a repeater type rifle and to do that ya have to replenish the BB's and it seems like every thing ya do is another place that may leak.
So to keep the power up I strongly believe ya have to have it sealed, my 54" long Kentucky rifle shoots at over 450 fps using no air tube and a stock 1938BRR spring and no shims, but it is sealed really good.
If ya like the single shot guns I could give ya some tips on getting them to work better, I think you have figured out one "no air tube" .
The air is what's pushing the BB so ya cant have a bunch of leaks, If your not comfortable with the epoxy use RTV.
Below is a picture of the barrel out of my model 95 that shoots consistently in the 580's and has almost hit the 600 fps mark, it's a simple double wall CF tube with machined muzzle and breach with a special magnet installed.
Hope this answers your questions?
Terry

DSCF3247 (2).JPG
 
TerryCowger said:
You may ask Shane Bruce over at RestoMod Daisy about question number one ?
He has the ST that I made and is doing some testing on it, I think Colbalt327 was getting into the 360's with it when he had it, you may also ask him ?
I don't use an air tube in my guns, so all of my guns are kinda like the 499 but all are heavily modified, most people don't like the single shot concept for some reason ?
So that's how this all started, I decided to try my hand at a repeater type rifle and to do that ya have to replenish the BB's and it seems like every thing ya do is another place that may leak.
So to keep the power up I strongly believe ya have to have it sealed, my 54" long Kentucky rifle shoots at over 450 fps using no air tube and a stock 1938BRR spring and no shims, but it is sealed really good.
If ya like the single shot guns I could give ya some tips on getting them to work better, I think you have figured out one "no air tube" .
The air is what's pushing the BB so ya cant have a bunch of leaks, If your not comfortable with the epoxy use RTV.
Below is a picture of the barrel out of my model 95 that shoots consistently in the 580's and has almost hit the 600 fps mark, it's a simple double wall CF tube with machined muzzle and breach with a special magnet installed.
Hope this answers your questions?
Terry

View attachment 1141992
Click to expand...

Okay, so I have a question, could you put a barrel like that in the picture directly into a model 25 and use it as a single shot?
 
Terry,

Thanks for the suggestions.

Agreed, no air tube or leaks is a huge deal. I talked about the high velocity I was getting with my Model 499 on Page 64, post #1587 of this topic. I was hitting ~450 fps with my Model 499 with just a factory RR spring installed, the 499 has good gas sealing (for those that don't know, a Model 499 does not have an air tube and is a single shot muzzle loading model with a tighter, better grade barrel).

I have a Model 25 and 299 that I would enjoy seeing how they work without air tubes. Especially the model 25 since their spring does not appear shimable or easily upgradable.

I must say that I like repeaters, I use my 499, but I am often standing around on my back porch when I am shooting. Normally while I grill or gardening where my hands are not at the level of clean I would like to be handling individual bb's to put down a barrel. So it is nice to be able to just pick the gun up, take a few shots, and then go back to my prior activity.

It would be nice to be able to reload without needing to pull the shot tube.
 
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