Redding Profile Crimp Die and .44-40

[LonesomePigeon]

I made about 60 rounds of .44-40 reloads and even though I made a dummy round that chambered just fine, and I also checked the first several live rounds and they chambered fine, in the end I had about 20 rounds that would not chamber. I am assuming it was a crimping issue and I wrinkled the case mouths.

I shot the good ones but I am wondering what I should do with these 20 or so bad ones? I already went ahead and bought a Redding Profile Crimp Die and I was wondering if the bad rounds can be salvaged simply by running them through this die? Or do I have to pull the bullets and start all over?

FYI, I am shooting these in lever action rifle so I definitely need a good crimp.

 

[mkl]

I'd start over. Crimp in a separate step. Turn the seating stem out as far as it will go. With a cartridge in the shell holder and the ram all the way up turn the die in until you feel the crimp shoulder of the die contact the case mouth. Drop the ram and turn the die in 1/2 turn. Run the ram (with cartridge) up all the way. Check the crimp. Adjust the die up or down until you get a firm roll crimp.

 

[EricBu]

I load 44-40 with the Redding Profile crimp die, it works really really well. If I understand your post, you loaded them the first time without it? And bought the profile crimp die after the fact? If that's so, rerunning it through the profile crimp die won't get you anywhere....it's not a FCD like a lee. If you pancaked it with a traditional seat/crimp die......pull them down. Just a hint: 44-40 is a delicate round, I would never attempt to seat/crimp in one step, way to easy to bork the brass on these. After pull them down, set your seating die up so that it is NOT crimping at all. Crimp in a 2nd step, I prefer the profile crimp die myself. 44-40 for a repeater should have a healthy crimp on it, the profile crimp die is perfect for this.

 

[BW460]

If you have a bulge in the case below the mouth, then you are crimping way too hard. If you are using lead bullets, I wouldn't use the profile crimp die. It works well on jacketed bullets but may resize lead bullets if you put too much of a crimp on it. As noted, seat and crimp in separate steps. Your regular crimp die will work fine if you use it correctly. People hate it when I say this, but try reading the instructions for the crimp die.

 

[EricBu]

If you have a bulge in the case below the mouth, then you are crimping way too hard. If you are using lead bullets, I wouldn't use the profile crimp die. It works well on jacketed bullets but may resize lead bullets if you put too much of a crimp on it. As noted, seat and crimp in separate steps. Your regular crimp die will work fine if you use it correctly. People hate it when I say this, but try reading the instructions for the crimp die.

The profile crimp is NOT a fcd, it does not resize the bullet.

 

[Savvy Jack]

If the cases are not damaged then yes, you can run the cartridges through the Redding Profile Crimp Die. The die will knock the crimp buldge back down.

Details here: https://sites.google.com/view/44win...rimpingcrumpledbuckled-case-issues?authuser=0

 

[EricBu]

Since there seems to be a lot of confusion here.....let me clarify again. The Redding Profile Crimp die, and the Lee Factory Crimp Die are two entirely different things that perform completely differently. The Lee FCD (based on caliber and type of crimp) also has a built in sizing ring, the Redding Profile crimp die does not. The Redding die only crimps, but it is a hybrid crimp, neither a traditional roll crimp, nor a traditional taper crimp. It does NOT resize the case, nor will it resize a bullet. The LEE FCD can be a taper crimp, a roll crimp, or a collet crimp depending on the caliber. Sometimes in cases like the above, a Lee FCD "might" correct the bulge caused by overcrimping, and allow the cartridge to chamber. While you might fudge around with the Redding trying to adjust it to hit that bulge, you are far more likely to just crush the case. IMHO, the Redding has some use cases: Crimping heavy revolver loads for use in short barrelled magnums that might tend to crimp jump is one of them, I also like it when loading cast in semi-autos. I also use it for my 44-40, just because 44-40 might bump around in a repeater magazine, and it needs a relatively heavy crimp for that. The Lee FCD also has use cases......depending on the bullet used, how it's sized and coated, a FCD "might" size the bullet. IMHO, the FCD best use case is with jacketed pistol bullets loaded in semi-autos. I also really like the 223 Lee FCD with the collet crimp, however that cannot be used with automated presses as it will damage the shell plate and prevent proper calibration. Based on my understanding of the OP's original post, rerunning through the Redding profile crimp die won't accomplish anything, but may damage his brass further..and 44-40 isn't easy to come by. As in my earlier post: pull down, resize (pull decapper out of your sizing die since you're already primed), and seat and crimp in two steps.

 

[Savvy Jack]

Since there seems to be a lot of confusion here.....let me clarify again. The Redding Profile Crimp die, and the Lee Factory Crimp Die are two entirely different things that perform completely differently. The Lee FCD (based on caliber and type of crimp) also has a built in sizing ring, the Redding Profile crimp die does not. The Redding die only crimps, but it is a hybrid crimp, neither a traditional roll crimp, nor a traditional taper crimp. It does NOT resize the case, nor will it resize a bullet. The LEE FCD can be a taper crimp, a roll crimp, or a collet crimp depending on the caliber. Sometimes in cases like the above, a Lee FCD "might" correct the bulge caused by overcrimping, and allow the cartridge to chamber. While you might fudge around with the Redding trying to adjust it to hit that bulge, you are far more likely to just crush the case. IMHO, the Redding has some use cases: Crimping heavy revolver loads for use in short barrelled magnums that might tend to crimp jump is one of them, I also like it when loading cast in semi-autos. I also use it for my 44-40, just because 44-40 might bump around in a repeater magazine, and it needs a relatively heavy crimp for that. The Lee FCD also has use cases......depending on the bullet used, how it's sized and coated, a FCD "might" size the bullet. IMHO, the FCD best use case is with jacketed pistol bullets loaded in semi-autos. I also really like the 223 Lee FCD with the collet crimp, however that cannot be used with automated presses as it will damage the shell plate and prevent proper calibration. Based on my understanding of the OP's original post, rerunning through the Redding profile crimp die won't accomplish anything, but may damage his brass further..and 44-40 isn't easy to come by. As in my earlier post: pull down, resize (pull decapper out of your sizing die since you're already primed), and seat and crimp in two steps.

I can help clear the still somewhat confused sizing issue. Check Here: https://sites.google.com/view/44win...die-sets/redding-profile-crimp-die?authuser=0

There is just too much information on both the 44-40 LFCD and the 44-40 Redding Profile Crimp Die to repost it here.

 

[LonesomePigeon]

Thanks to all for the replies. I haven't had much of a chance to get back to this thread. I think part of the problem might have been I was using mixed brass and/or putting too much crimp. It could also be my bullet casting is not the best, resulting in poor quality bullets. Some had fins, ect. I don't think I like 6 cavity molds. I did make some new rounds with the Redding PC die and only Starline brass and they were much better, out of 21 rounds only 1 was slightly resistant to chambering. I don't feel like I have it down but I am enjoying learning. I guess my main concern was if I just ran those rounds that wouldn't chamber through the Redding PC die would it somehow make them unsafe too shoot? I was imagining it causing too much crimp and raising pressures or something.

 

[LonesomePigeon]

Savvy Jack, thanks! Amazing website.

 

[Savvy Jack]

Thanks to all for the replies. I haven't had much of a chance to get back to this thread. I think part of the problem might have been I was using mixed brass and/or putting too much crimp. It could also be my bullet casting is not the best, resulting in poor quality bullets. Some had fins, ect. I don't think I like 6 cavity molds. I did make some new rounds with the Redding PC die and only Starline brass and they were much better, out of 21 rounds only 1 was slightly resistant to chambering. I don't feel like I have it down but I am enjoying learning. I guess my main concern was if I just ran those rounds that wouldn't chamber through the Redding PC die would it somehow make them unsafe too shoot? I was imagining it causing too much crimp and raising pressures or something.

In general a hard crimp can increase pressures, but with typical loads, it should not raise it too high.

I have a load of Reloder 7 of which I can change the velocity from 1,350fps to 1,450fps by just adjusting the amount of crimp used with the Redding die.

...and Thanks!!

 

[mdi]

I have Profile Crimp dies for my 44 Magnums and 357 Magnums. I shoot a lot of cast bullets (BHN 10-15) in my revolvers and never any problems swaging/deforming softer bullets. I have used the Profile crimp on many of my "T-Rex Killer" loads quite successfully. 265 gr. Ranch Dog RNFP over hefty loads of WC820. With enough crimp to prevent bullet movement the cast bullets are not damaged. I normally start with a medium crimp then test, if any measurable bullet movement, add a little more. I haven't run any over my chrony in the last few years, but I can't remember any large velocity variations during my "crimp work up"...