Replacing S&W Forged Parts

[1911Bird]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at purchasing an older S&W 66-2, but I have one concern. I know these guns are extremely durable (unless shot frequently with hot 357 loads), but since S&W switched their manufacturing to MIM parts, what do I do if something were to break, which could most definitely happen to an older gun? I obviously don't intend to abuse the thing, but I don't own a firearm that doesn't get shot at least somewhat regularly and this would be no exception.

Is anyone still making parts for these? Which MIM parts interchange with the old ones? Any and all information is greatly appreciated!

 

[tominboise]

There are a lot of used and NOS parts available on ebay, the S&W forums and from retail suppliers like Numrich. I don't worry about it, personally. Buy it and enjoy it.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

For my part, I'm not especially worried about this. S&W can fix it for me if something breaks.

I don't have any information regarding the degree of interchangeability with current generation S&W revolver parts, but I'm fairly sure older production guns required some degree of fitting.

I'd recommend getting and reading a copy of Kuhnhausen's guide.

 

[357 Terms]

K frame parts can be found easily, and in abundance.
As Tom mentioned eBay, many sellers there have parts to build several K frame revolvers from the frame up.

 

[mcb]

Got to agree with everyone. It's a non-issue there are tons of parts new and used out there to keep a S&W running. Shoot the cowboy heck out of it and don't worry. By the time you shoot it enough to wear something out the new parts will seem cheap compared to the cost of ammo it took to wear the parts out.

 

[bangswitch]

I don't have any information regarding the degree of interchangeability with current generation S&W revolver parts, but I'm fairly sure older production guns required some degree of fitting.

MIM hammers require a frame-mounted floating firing pin, the forged hammers have the firing pin (hammer nose) mounted on the hammer. In either case, I believe, the sears may be the only part that needs fitting, for proper break. If the M66-2 the OP is looking at is in firing condition, I doubt there will be any problems. It is very rare for a hammer to break; it's usually the hammer nose that will wear or break, and they are a fairly common item and any K frame hammer nose will interchange. I've owned two M66's (still have one) and they have both had a lot of rounds through them. My first M66 was used in PPC competition with no mechanical issues.

 

[mcb]

Some of the frame mounted firing pin frames use forged hammers and some MIM hammers. I have an N-frame of each.

 

[Rule3]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at purchasing an older S&W 66-2, but I have one concern. I know these guns are extremely durable (unless shot frequently with hot 357 loads), but since S&W switched their manufacturing to MIM parts, what do I do if something were to break, which could most definitely happen to an older gun? I obviously don't intend to abuse the thing, but I don't own a firearm that doesn't get shot at least somewhat regularly and this would be no exception.

Is anyone still making parts for these? Which MIM parts interchange with the old ones? Any and all information is greatly appreciated!

Don't worry about it. Parts do not "break very often" No the parts are not made anymore, but some are still available as mentioned above.

Smith & Wesson Model 66-2 Revolver Parts | Numrich

Get your S&W Model 66-2 parts, accessories and schematics with Numrich Gun Parts. Providing revolver parts since 1950.

www.gunpartscorp.com

 

[Speedo66]

Parts on Ebay are so cheap and plentiful as to be a non issue.

Now if they ever pass a law regulating firearm parts…. Hmm, that’s just my paranoia kicking in.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Parts on Ebay are so cheap and plentiful as to be a non issue.

Now if they ever pass a law regulating firearm parts…. Hmm, that’s just my paranoia kicking in.

Yeah, control of non-serial parts isn't above the brain trust in DC. But we'll just have to blow up that bridge if we come to it.
For the OP, don't sweat wearing out the original parts. You'll have to work at it to do it.
BTW, I've thought about replacing the MIM parts in a 640-1 for the older, forged/flashchromed parts. But the 640-1 has responded well to a tune/spring replacement with the originals. I'll leave it alone.
Moon

 

[J-Bar]

I had a cylinder stop break in my 1955 38/44. S&W repaired it for $45. I am pleased with the service they provided on that old soldier. Buy that 66-2 and do your best to wear it out!

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

One reason there are so many old hammers, triggers, etc. on Ebay is precisely because they very rarely break and there isn't much demand.
I suspect the major source of these parts is guns that were cut up by freedom-averse government agencies and foreign entities who still had no problem taking cash for the leftover parts from scrap auctions.

 

[Speedo66]

One reason there are so many old hammers, triggrs, etc. on Ebay is precisely because they very rarely break and there isn't much demand.
I suspect the major source of these parts is guns that were cut up by freedom-averse government agencies and foreign entities who still had no problem taking cash for the leftover parts from scrap auctions.

It recently came out that the company with the biggest municipal contracts to chop up guns, GunBusters, was only destroying the frames, and selling the remaining parts.

The anti cities who had hired them were not pleased. https://www.freep.com/story/news/lo.../msp-gunbusters-gun-parts-resale/72161644007/

 

[Jim Watson]

Everygunpart.com sells parts kits from confiscated guns. Prices are high, you had better need major parts otherwise not available. Frex, $270 would get you most of a K38; barrel, cylinder, yoke, hammer, trigger, rebound slide, cylinder stop, hand, side plate, and some but not all pins and screws.

They have an NFA category. If you wanted to overhaul a rifle or shotgun, you could get one of those, promptly scrap the sawn off barrel, and have the rest to use.

 

[1911Bird]

Thanks, everyone! Glad to hear there's such an abundance of used parts out there. Sounds like there's not much to worry about.

 

[halfmoonclip]

I usually shop on Numrich, and it is pretty amazing the parts they offer.
Try to imagine sorting all those parts, all day, every day...not the stuff dreams are made of.
Moon

 

[Pat Riot]

The last 3 times I have ordered S&W parts from Gun Parts Corp (Numrich) I wasn’t very pleased with the quality of so-called “new” parts. I have a feeling they’re running low on certain parts.

Example:
A new ejector rod from GPC. I should have photographed it before cleaning the rust off. The upper rod is the one I removed from my 19-4


In this photo from the top down. My old ejector rod, then the GPC “New” rod and the rod I got from Midway USA.

 

[Onty]

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at purchasing an older S&W 66-2, but I have one concern. I know these guns are extremely durable (unless shot frequently with hot 357 loads), but since S&W switched their manufacturing to MIM parts, what do I do if something were to break, which could most definitely happen to an older gun? I obviously don't intend to abuse the thing, but I don't own a firearm that doesn't get shot at least somewhat regularly and this would be no exception.

Is anyone still making parts for these? Which MIM parts interchange with the old ones? Any and all information is greatly appreciated!

I am 100% confident that S&W M66-2 has forged internal parts. If you see any S&W centerfire revolver with fairing pin on hammer, it is forged, as the rest of other parts in mechanism:



These hammers are for N-frame, but manufacturing method is (was) the same for all other S&W revolvers.

BTW, if I am looking for revolver to shoot, I would prefer -3 and up. Those are made on CNC machines, more consistent in quality, so less fitting was required during assembly process. According to one very knowledgeable shooter (he is on the range at least twice every week), since less fitting was required, some other parts are now made from stronger steel.

When I was looking for M27, 8-3/8" barrel, I found older one in the store within quite large shooting range, north of Toronto. Nice looking revolver, but when I checked cylinder, it was loose in all directions. I asked personal did previous owner shoot some very hot loads? They sad no, just 38 Special, target, but for the long time.

All in all, older revolver might have nicer fit and finish, but newer ones are usually more accurate and definitely more durable.

 

[UncleEd]

This from RevolverGuy.com about "forged" hammers and triggers:

.... Around the 1950s, Smith & Wesson started punching out triggers and hammers from flat stock with a press, instead of forging them. The punched parts would get drilled, and the hammers would get placed into a press to swedge the thumb pad to dimension and knurl them, then the parts were color case hardened, to put a hard skin on them.