Ruger blackhawk firelapping

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Catpop

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Where can I buy pregritted boolits to reload to firelap my ruger.
OR do I have to make them myself.
I looked at Brownells and Midway, but couldn't seem to find them.
Thought I might do a little barrel work while SD is back at Dillon getting an overhaul.
Thanks for any help.
 
Midway has or had a kit with 3 different grits that can be used with jacketed bullets. I used a lap compound from Veral Smith that work quite well also.
 
There are many Blackhawk calibers, what is yours. What are you needing to do this for. I find the throats on the cylinders (too small or oblong) are a problem usually if anything. I have "heard" second hand that the barrel could be screwed in too tight and collapse the bore in a bit but firelapping would not really help this. Ruger needs to replace your barrel if this is the problem.
 
Issue- severe leading in 1st inch of barrel just past forcing cone because of restriction indicated by increased force during slugging a well lubricated bore in this area multiple times.
Caliber: 357
Cylinder throats: reamed to cast boolits, slip fit mild finger pressure.
Gun: 1973 Ruger Blackhawk, bought new with 4 5/8 barrel, changed to 6 5/8 by Ruger in 1980s, 200k plus rounds fired, early years all jhp, last 10 years all cast, mint looking bore, very accurate until leading begins to form- then drops dramatically as shooting session continues.
Appears this is one of the contricted thread area barrels. Dont have a set of pin gauges to actually measure area in question.
Don't think Ruger will replace this barrel BUT have not contacted them.
 
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Good point Frog, I will do that next week.
You're right, they have always been good to me (and one reason Ruger is MY go-to pistol)
I would like to actually measure the amount of constriction prior to that though. I just need a way to do that.
Thanks
 
Catpop,

I used this kit


to fire lap two stainless Ruger Vaqueros in .45 Colt. They had frame chokes that
took the groove diameter down to .4507/.4508" while the muzzle groove diameters
were.4511/.4512". They had noticeable leading just ahead of where the barrel was screwed into the frame.

I used soft cast unlubed bullets that I purchased from a now defunct bullet
casting company sized at .452". I prepared 100 lapping bullets using the
220 grit compound in the NECO kit. It took time to learn how much pressure
was required to embed the grit into the bullets uniformly. Once I learned
the bullet prep was a snap. But the entire bullet prep process is messy as
the compound is both greasy and gritty. And you need to thoroughly clean
your loading dies after making the lapping rounds.

I loaded them into some cases that I was ready to scrap. Once used for fire
lapping you don't want to use those cases for any regular load as some of
the lapping compound may be left behind embedded in them. I used 3.5 grains
of Red Dot. You want enough powder to push the bullet through the barrel
without fear of it getting stuck.

When I shot the lapping rounds I did five or ten at a time and then cleaned the
cylinders and barrel with Gun Scrubber, a bore brush and patches. I then
swagged the barrel and measured them with a micrometer. It took about three
hours to lap out the choked portion with all of the cleaning and remeasuring.

The end result was two guns that went from shooting 3 1/2" at 25 yards to
2 1/2". The barrels are now very smooth and when shot with lead have only
flecks of lead left in them that are pushed out with a dry patch or two.
 
catpop,

i used the beartooth system to firelap the barrel restriction out of three of my blackhawks. keep mv below 600, clean the barrel a lot (i cleaned after every shot), and seat your bullets backward if you decide to use this method. you will know when to stop when your groups shrink and your leading goes away.

luck,

murf
 
Murf,
I read his article with great interest. Well written in laymans term with s hint of humor. Thanks for link!
 
Well couldn't stand it, so armed with all my new found knowledge, I jumped in with both feet.
Used: old 1970s dried out engine valve lapping compound, Buck honing oil to get the pudding mix right, some old 148 gr lubed wadcutters (br 12 or so), 1 piece of 1" steel, one piece of 3/8" steel, 3.5 gr Win 231, Lyman Spartan press with old 7/8 bolt (so not get grit on my dies), 10 old cases dedicated to this job.
Yeap you're right it is messy. Didn't know how much pressure to use to imbed grit, so I used plenty!
Made up and ran 2 sets of 10 through my blackhawk. Shot them into an old stump which I am sure I killed with 20 grit filled slugs!
Thouroghly cleaned gun following lapping. Range day I will see if I did any good. But I have never seen the bore so shiny!
Yehar!
 
From what I gleaned from net today, I think that is what Clover valve lapping compound is, 280 or 320.
 
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Clover is available in grits from 60 (I think) to over 1000. You'd have to look at the can to see what you have.
 
Pictures

Picture! This is my "run-wach-ya-brung" fire lap boolit making system!:neener:
 

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You still need to determine what grit you have so you'll know what grit you need.

As a general rule if the grit is coarse enough for cutting it's too coarse for polishing. Likewise, if it's fine enough for polishing it's too fine for cutting.

A Wheeler bore lapping kit only costs about $40 and you know exactly what you're sending down the barrel. What you're proposing will save a few bucks now but the risk wouldn't be worth it to me. Back when I was lapping valves with the old suction cup valve spinner I wasn't real careful about what went into the Clover tin. I wouldn't trust an old one now to be clean and free of larger grit that could cause real damage to the barrel.

Wheeler Fire Lapping Kit
 
Bula, 1. nope- just some .358 button nosed wadcutters already lubed I got from a friend. 2. Yes .359, finger pressure push through throat.

Sport45, not Clover brand, but old an old dried tube of 1970s Permatex water mixed valve grinding compound #34A, item #80036 I had left over from 1968 301 mouse motor days. (Note-I was building 301 chevies before Chevy had the 302 Z28.:))

Will it work? We'll see in the next few weeks of lap and test, lap and test.

Enclosed pic of new 7/8" fire lapped boolit seating die. Yes I know it is really flimsy, but it was all I could find in my buddys farm shop.

Also see pic of disposable gritty case semi belling die along with finished product. Didn't want much bell, just enough to get boolit started and didn't want to involve a crimping die to get all gritted up.
 

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