jmorris
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,248
I think it’s been more than a decade since I have had this one out. I wanted a running target but as it turns out, I think there is more to learn using it as a moving shooting port.
Either way, one of my shooting buddies was thinking about more challenging targets we could use at play, than what I already have setup and was reminded of this one. It wasn’t a “clean sheet of paper”, CAD/CNC, best Chinese electronics money can buy, project. More of a, “I’d like one of those, what do I have that I could build one for cheap.”, projects.
The power train is an old 12v cordless drill that lasted longer than the batteries (that cost more than the drill to replace). It’s two speed with a brake, I removed the Chuck and threaded a hunk of aluminum, (drop hole sawed from a plate sometime in the past) also plunged with a part off tool to two different depths. That gave two additional speeds to pick from.
This is the setup. Stands made for 2x4’s and the drive, idler tightened to their boards.
The loops on the far left and on the back of the cable winch mount are for ratchet tie downs. They are pretty important, the longer they are apart the more important it gets. For a 100 ft “run” the cable has to be so tight, to keep the target from trying to rock, I use a half inch impact and screw anchors. Short runs are a lot easier, 16ft can be done without anything but a little extra weight. Might note that is a “running” photo as neither of the two aluminum set collars on the string are in contact with the direction/stop rods.
This is how I leave it ready for setup. String in the grove/gear box engaged in desired speed.
You would have both ends anchored and the cable tight at this point and a lot higher but this is for photos.
String around the drive “pully” (1.5 wraps) looped for runner on one end, set collars in place keeping the springs compressed.
Then go around the idler at the other end and come back to the runner. Loop the string between the washers, pull tight and lock down the wing nut.
The “guts” of it sound more complicated than it really was to throw together it’s just 4 switches. Old milspec stuff I had that will probably still be working after I’m gone. That one in the 1st photo, bottom left, allows me to choose if the target is just going to go one direction or go in one direction, to the limit I placed the aluminum set collars at, and return to starting position. The direction left or right is how you attach the string to the runner base.
The switch at the top of the photo below changes the direction of the drill, reversing the target and the other two below it cut the power to the drill motor when the limit is hit.
The toggle is steel, stainless and oillite bushings.
This is what it looks like stopped to the left (view from behind).
And right (again from shooters view).
At high speeds or high winds, I also add a string to the bottom of the stakes. Always do it if it’s used as a port that someone is for sure to contact, at some point. Again, a lot higher than “in the dirt”. Might have to zoom in but there are tiny screw eyes there.
Another view with both set collars off the stops/reverser. You can also make out the Tyvar (fancy word for plastic) rollers for the coated 1/8” cable. If it’s a short run you can use less but don’t underestimate the tension on a long run with even a few oz hanging from the center.
I’ll try and make a decent video next time it’s setup. These are an example of it setup as a moving port, from 2009.
There are a number of ways to activate it, in those, it was by a shock sensor/1st shot muzzle blast.
Either way, one of my shooting buddies was thinking about more challenging targets we could use at play, than what I already have setup and was reminded of this one. It wasn’t a “clean sheet of paper”, CAD/CNC, best Chinese electronics money can buy, project. More of a, “I’d like one of those, what do I have that I could build one for cheap.”, projects.
The power train is an old 12v cordless drill that lasted longer than the batteries (that cost more than the drill to replace). It’s two speed with a brake, I removed the Chuck and threaded a hunk of aluminum, (drop hole sawed from a plate sometime in the past) also plunged with a part off tool to two different depths. That gave two additional speeds to pick from.
This is the setup. Stands made for 2x4’s and the drive, idler tightened to their boards.
The loops on the far left and on the back of the cable winch mount are for ratchet tie downs. They are pretty important, the longer they are apart the more important it gets. For a 100 ft “run” the cable has to be so tight, to keep the target from trying to rock, I use a half inch impact and screw anchors. Short runs are a lot easier, 16ft can be done without anything but a little extra weight. Might note that is a “running” photo as neither of the two aluminum set collars on the string are in contact with the direction/stop rods.
This is how I leave it ready for setup. String in the grove/gear box engaged in desired speed.
You would have both ends anchored and the cable tight at this point and a lot higher but this is for photos.
String around the drive “pully” (1.5 wraps) looped for runner on one end, set collars in place keeping the springs compressed.
Then go around the idler at the other end and come back to the runner. Loop the string between the washers, pull tight and lock down the wing nut.
The “guts” of it sound more complicated than it really was to throw together it’s just 4 switches. Old milspec stuff I had that will probably still be working after I’m gone. That one in the 1st photo, bottom left, allows me to choose if the target is just going to go one direction or go in one direction, to the limit I placed the aluminum set collars at, and return to starting position. The direction left or right is how you attach the string to the runner base.
The switch at the top of the photo below changes the direction of the drill, reversing the target and the other two below it cut the power to the drill motor when the limit is hit.
The toggle is steel, stainless and oillite bushings.
This is what it looks like stopped to the left (view from behind).
And right (again from shooters view).
At high speeds or high winds, I also add a string to the bottom of the stakes. Always do it if it’s used as a port that someone is for sure to contact, at some point. Again, a lot higher than “in the dirt”. Might have to zoom in but there are tiny screw eyes there.
Another view with both set collars off the stops/reverser. You can also make out the Tyvar (fancy word for plastic) rollers for the coated 1/8” cable. If it’s a short run you can use less but don’t underestimate the tension on a long run with even a few oz hanging from the center.
I’ll try and make a decent video next time it’s setup. These are an example of it setup as a moving port, from 2009.
There are a number of ways to activate it, in those, it was by a shock sensor/1st shot muzzle blast.
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