Sigs

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Sigaholic....... So that's what this affliction is called :eek: ....... It all started with a sweet little P-220 no rail two tone that followed me home one day, then came the P-229 40 S&W, and then there was the P-230, and finally the P-239 9mm..... they just keep following me home! Well that's my story & I'm sticking to it! Come to think of it I have the same problem with Smith & Wessons, Colts, Rugers, Kimbers, Taurus...... They just keep following me home! ;) Can't wait to see what shows up next!! :scrutiny: Maybe a 220 compact?
 
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BTW Does anyone know where I could find a 400 Corbon barrel for my P-220??
 
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To all you Sig-aholics, I have a question. It may have been covered earlier, but you mis stuff in 70 plus pages of posts. I recently got a P226 Navy. It's huge and my hands aren't. Is there a grip out there that is a little more small-hand friendly that I should look at? Thanks in advance for the help.
 
...

Well, you could look at Hogue's thin aluminum grips that are a tad thinner than the factory P226 plastic grips. Around 80 bucks and you should get the textured ones, not the smooth ones.. Or:

Look into a Sig P239 single stack mag series, much thinner grips being single stack mags vs what the P226 series use - double stack mags and thicker grips to accommodate them.

Or you might want to look into SA's EMP 1911 SAO 9mm, 9+1 single stack mag loads.. Very thin grips, yet full grip, excellent ccw size wise with 3" bull barrel and 3 dot night sights.. Tack drivers. Mine has just over 6k rounds with no issues, none.

Luck,


Ls
 
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Old thread but hey ... I've owned SIGs for almost 20 years!! :p

My SIGs include a P220 bought NIB in 1992 when I was living in Oregon (over 10,000 rounds fired and no issues). A P225 bought in 1995 and a P220 Carry bought a couple of weeks ago. The P220s are still the best semi-autos on the planet in terms of ergonomics, ease of use, reliability and combat accuracy. I never felt the need to buy any other semi-autos all these years because my first P220 is just a superb pistol. I'm picking up the Carry version from the gun shop next week ... had to wait 14 days. :barf:

:)
 
Lonestar49,

Thanks, I'll look at the hogues. This P226 was a unit commerortive pistol from a trip to Afghanistan. It's got some sentimental value, so I'm keeping it no matter what. Just needed something to make it fit me a little better.
 
I love my Sigs and shoot them much much more than any fire arms. The only thing I dislike on my P220 DA/SA is that first shot trigger pull on the DA (9.5 lbs). I've got over 9,000 rounds through it (with quite a few formal firearm classes) so it's not like I haven't shot it enough. It is new enough where I could get it converted to the DAK so there is a consistent trigger pull all the time.

Has anyone done this and do you like it?
Can the Sig factory lighten the DAK so its a bit lighter than 7.5 lbs (I don't want to make it unsafe though?

Many thanks for the input.

PS For range work, social plinking the DA/SA is fine. My concern is more along the lines of a real self defense situation where I don't have time to manually cock it.
 
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Easy fix -

Contact Wolff Springs, site has phone number, you'll talk with the owner, tell him whether you factory main spring (24lb) is a long one, around 2" long top to bottom or is it a short main spring, around 1" top to bottom with 1" plastic base platform it hooks up to at the bottom (take grips off, you'll see main spring)

Also, get a Sig Armorer DVD it will show you how to change them, (release set clip first) easy, cept you might need a wife, friend, to push new, chosen main spring down as you slip a temporary (paper clip straightened out some) thru the hole to retain it until you put it back up and in, then re-set bottom retainer clip, then pull the temp pin, it will stay and re-insert factory pin, done.

Only tool needed is a pair of needle nose pliers and a small block of wood to set the hammer-strut and spring onto to (after you take it out of gun) and take off and put back on, then after you take it out, and when you change the spring, then put it back up into gun.. fixed to the hammer strut, centered on bottom of hammer pivot point, press retainer clip back in bottom, it slides up then down into set/locking position..

Put a touch of oil on the top and lower part you see dipping down as you pull a DA shot or thumb-cock hammer into SA mode, and goes back up when you deccok or pull the trigger..

Really, watching DVD makes it, "shows you" how easy, step by step this really is.. takes all but 3 mins..

Wolff sells a pkg set: IIRC 20, 19, 18, 17, 16lb main springs so you can find what you like, then test thru 500 flawless rounds to ensure no light strikes- none, if you get some, go a pound heavier.. re-test..

It will lighten the DA pull considerably and you'll like it.. I use a 17lb on one of my P229's and a 18lb on another.. both with over 4000 flawless rounds thus far with lighter main springs and much smoother, quicker, lighter, DA pulls.. :)


Ls
 
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posted by Sheepdog1968
Has anyone done this and do you like it?
Can the Sig factory lighten the DAK so its a bit lighter than 7.5 lbs (I don't want to make it unsafe though?

Many thanks for the input.

PS For range work, social plinking the DA/SA is fine. My concern is more along the lines of a real self defense situation where I don't have time to manually cock it.

i happen to like the DAK trigger system and have seen some very accurate shooting during classes, the concern that is raised is: why would you manually cock a DA/SA Sig?

this is especially confusing in light of your having attended a quite few formal firearm classes...i'm unaware of any well known shooting shoot that teaches cocking the hammer on the first shot of a DA/SA pistol
 
i happen to like the DAK trigger system and have seen some very accurate shooting during classes, the concern that is raised is: why would you manually cock a DA/SA Sig?

this is especially confusing in light of your having attended a quite few formal firearm classes...i'm unaware of any well known shooting shoot that teaches cocking the hammer on the first shot of a DA/SA pistol
I wasn't clear in my posting above. I don't manually cock in the classes. I shoot the first shot DA and I just don't like it the difference between the SA and DA pull. The situation I'm thinking of is if I'm in my home and something concerns me enough to put the pistol into my hand. In that situation, I'd cock it, obvioiusly observing the big four safety rules and keeping my finger off the trigger. If I needed to shoot in a quick emergency I wouldn't cock it.

I'm not saying I can't shoot it double action, I just really dislike the difference. XDs, Glocks, though not my favorites, have a consistent trigger pull and I appreciate that in their weapons. Just trying to see if others have tried the DAK on the Sigs and if its worth doing.

No school I've been to advocates cocking it either. In the late 80s, Jeff Cooper wrote a fair bit about the challenges SA/DA have regarding the differences in trigger pulls. One of his suggestions/thoughts was to cock upon draw.
 
...

Easy fix -

Contact Wolff Springs, site has phone number, you'll talk with the owner, tell him whether you factory main spring (24lb) is a long one, around 2" long top to bottom or is it a short main spring, around 1" top to bottom with 1" plastic base platform it hooks up to at the bottom (take grips off, you'll see main spring)

Also, get a Sig Armorer DVD it will show you how to change them, (release set clip first) easy, cept you might need a wife, friend, to push new, chosen main spring down as you slip a temporary (paper clip straightened out some) thru the hole to retain it until you put it back up and in, then re-set bottom retainer clip, then pull the temp pin, it will stay and re-insert factory pin, done.

Only tool needed is a pair of needle nose pliers and a small block of wood to set the hammer-strut and spring onto to (after you take it out of gun) and take off and put back on, then after you take it out, and when you change the spring, then put it back up into gun.. fixed to the hammer strut, centered on bottom of hammer pivot point, press retainer clip back in bottom, it slides up then down into set/locking position..

Put a touch of oil on the top and lower part you see dipping down as you pull a DA shot or thumb-cock hammer into SA mode, and goes back up when you deccok or pull the trigger..

Really, watching DVD makes it, "shows you" how easy, step by step this really is.. takes all but 3 mins..

Wolff sells a pkg set: IIRC 20, 19, 18, 17, 16lb main springs so you can find what you like, then test thru 500 flawless rounds to ensure no light strikes- none, if you get some, go a pound heavier.. re-test..

It will lighten the DA pull considerably and you'll like it.. I use a 17lb on one of my P229's and a 18lb on another.. both with over 4000 flawless rounds thus far with lighter main springs and much smoother, quicker, lighter, DA pulls.. :)


Ls
Thanks for the suggestion. Does this also lighten the SA pull? I really like the 4.5 pound single action pull on the Sig. It's only the DA portion I want to lighten up.
 
To the gentleman seeking a thinner grip on his P226:

Another option (worked for me and my girl hands) would be to install a short reset trigger. It's the same trigger but just stays a bit farther back in the trigger housing. Gives the grip a smaller feel as you have to travel less to get to the trigger.

Of course, if this doesn't work either then you can always sell me your Navy. Haha just kidding...but seriously, sell it to me. ;-)
 
posted by Sheepdog 1968
No school I've been to advocates cocking it either. In the late 80s, Jeff Cooper wrote a fair bit about the challenges SA/DA have regarding the differences in trigger pulls. One of his suggestions/thoughts was to cock upon draw.

thanks for clearing that up. the reason that schools don't advocate cocking be hammer, besides the increase liability, is that training and technology has advanced since the days when Cooper wrote that (i remember when he wrote that throwing away that first shot was also acceptable :eek:)...there isn't a huge transition between DA and SA that was once believed, although the myth lives on.

the DAK is a very worthwhile conversion. you really wouldn't want it lighter, but smoother is always good...a smooth DAK would put a stock S&W L or K-frame to shame

posted by speaksoftly
...install a short reset trigger. It's the same trigger but just stays a bit farther back in the trigger housing.

you might be confusing the Short Trigger and the Short Reset Trigger (SRT)

the Short Trigger is thinner than the regular trigger and hence shortens the reach from the backstrap to the trigger face. it is positioned exactly in the same place in the trigger guard

the SRT does not shorten the reach to the trigger face...it is a linkage system the can be applied to either the regular or the short trigger. it shortens the distance the trigger travels forward, after releasing the sear, to the point where the trigger is reset and your trigger press can start rearward again
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Does this also lighten the SA pull? I really like the 4.5 pound single action pull on the Sig. It's only the DA portion I want to lighten up.
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Not really.. You may think it has but nothing that you can "really feel" other than the DA pull going from heavy/24lb/10.5lb-DA pull - down to much lighter/faster/smoother 18lb, (8.5lb DA pull) for example, that you choose and proves itself thru 500 flawless rounds.. (I started with 18lb, liked it so much, on first P229, that I thought, no way 17lb main spring could work better, but it did..) and 4k rounds later, does :)

Other than that, the only other thing that will change is the feel of what your hammer, weight wise, feels like when you thumb-cock it into SA mode, it will be lighter, easier, as well, to do..

Total cost: aprox; 24bucks for Sig Armorer DVD, IIRC, about the same for main spring kit and your choice (he'll ask you) 7 bucks Priority US Mail.. Do not go next day US Mail.. No need, as mine got to me from back there to CA. in 3 days from day of order.

You'll like the investment and change for the better..


Ls
 
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Quote:
posted by speaksoftly
...install a short reset trigger. It's the same trigger but just stays a bit farther back in the trigger housing.
you might be confusing the Short Trigger and the Short Reset Trigger (SRT)

the Short Trigger is thinner than the regular trigger and hence shortens the reach from the backstrap to the trigger face. it is positioned exactly in the same place in the trigger guard

the SRT does not shorten the reach to the trigger face...it is a linkage system the can be applied to either the regular or the short trigger. it shortens the distance the trigger travels forward, after releasing the sear, to the point where the trigger is reset and your trigger press can start rearward again

You're right...I meant short trigger. Thanks for the correction.
 
Speaksoftly,
I'll get on MidwayUSA and look for that short trigger. And I like the sound of that short reset linkage, as well. Is it something that I would be able to install myself? I can usually follow the instructional videos pretty well.
 
To me Sigs feel like an outrageously expensive Ruger P series. I always had a little hostility toward them for some reason but I'm actually starting to come around a bit. Mainly because my wife loves the way they look and says she wants one, even though she has itty bitty hands. I suggested a P238 and she opted for the P220 elite, funnily enough. I don't know, maybe one day, I like the way the P220 combat looks but then again I think if I was going to spend an outrageous amount of money I'd get a HK .45 expert. Nothin against the sigmongers
But I'm a ultra hardcore medium style glock man myself
 
Singing a song for the p6

I have been shooting a p220 for many years and I just picked up a p6, Love this gun. I really like the thin grip. I have shot the double stack sigs but I really like the single stack. It fits my hand great. I got it for 300$, came with a extra mag and a factory blue box. I have seen them for as much as 450$.
Found a real nice belt slide for it. And I have started to use it as a carry gun.
It puts hydra shock 147grains right on the money at 25 yards. I may change out the springs to help the da trigger. I want to send it to sig to get it looked over and have some night sights put on it.:cool:
Anyone else out there shooting a p6?
 
I guess you can count me in, I started with a 2340, many years ago, then in November of 2008 I bought my 556, and just today I ordered a 226 Elite dark in .357. I had been hoping to just purchase another barrel for my 2340, but have not had much luck so it was very lucky when I stumbled across the 226, hopefully I will have it later this week. If they can sort out the bugs in the 238 then I would love to get one for the SO.
 
I finally bought a Sig. I'd shot them before and was never enthused enough to buy one, although I almost bought a 220 in 1999.

Now I own an X-5 TAC TB with the nice crisp 4.5# SAO trigger. Such a wonderful pistol.
 
Here's my Sigs. a 226 Custom Shop, a Blackwater and a 229 SCT that I'm selling...

Custom Shop 226 with SRT and short trigger
DSC_0104-Edit.jpg

Custom Shop 226 on Bedside duty (since I usually carry a 1911, this stays in the bedroom or home office, but it get's carried at times)
DSC_0077-Edit.jpg

229 SCT
DSC_0098-Edit.jpg

Here's the Blackwater 226 at the range yesterday. I need to get a better pic like the others
IMG_8023-Edit.jpg

I'm selling all (or most) of my HK's and I was going to sell 2 Sigs, but I decided to keep the 226's since I enjoy them so much. i might pick up a 220 Combat and have the 226 Custom Shop finished similar.
 
My three SIGs (P220, P220 Carry, P225) along with the ex's P220 (CPO Equinox version).

p220s.jpg


p220&p225.jpg


:)
 
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