Sorting 45 ACP brass

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When I sort LPP from SPP, I put one of each on my bench so I can see the difference. SPP goes into a separate spot and gets saved in case I ever need them.

chris
 
I had a problem just using my eyeball, but after a while, it was easy. "A while" being about 500 or so. I keep both small and large primer 45ACP so that I can load which ever primers I have. I have a lot of spp, but having a difficult time finding lpp's.

Cliff
 
BrotherMaynard said:
A variation on option 1. I bought a bunch of once-fired brass that was a mix. After decapping/tumbling/drying, I used the Lee primer pocket cleaner as a go/no go gauge.

Eventually, I started grabbing about 5-7 at a time (oriented base down) and it was pretty easy to identify the SP brass by eyeball.
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Yup. This ^^^^%
 
Some days I find 0% of the range pickup 45acp is small primer, some times 90% of its small prmer. Usually it's 0 to 20% is small primer.
I collect it all.
Luckily I saved and shelved all my small primer brass because for a while all I had was small primers.
 
N555 said:
Luckily I saved and shelved all my small primer brass because for a while all I had was small primers.
Click to expand...

Once it’s sorted out SPP 45 is just as good as LPP 45 so I also keep it all.

What I’ll end up doing is switch the press over to LP, put a universal decapping die it and run it all through feeling for any resistance and pull out the SPP brass when I encounter them.
 
Bfh_auto said:
Toss it in a bucket. LPP are scarce right now. You may wish you had a backup plan.
I here you on aluminum casing. I've been finding 38 spl lately that is aluminum. I've been picking up about 1 45 ACP to 15 9mm. I did find 25 brass 38s a couple weeks ago.
On the OP. SPP 45 looks very different to me. But I hand prime so it would never make it past priming.
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I do have a backup plan......it just doesn't involve keeping SPP 45s at this time.
 
I may be the odd man out, but I can tell the difference by looking at the cases. (Not a "super reloader", I just have hat 50 years as a machinist/mechanic). Using some sort of gauge seems really tedious and for me too much work...

Hint; place a lager primed and a small primed case primer pocket up, compare one in your hand with the two and after a little practice one can see the difference.
 
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mdi said:
I may be the odd man out, but I can tell the difference by looking at the cases. (Not a "super reloader", I just have hat 50 years as a machinist/mechanic). Using some sort of gauge seems really tedious and for me too much work...

Hint; place a lager primed and a small primed case primer pocket up, compare one in your hand with the two and after a little practice one can see the difference.
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Yup. The key is VISUAL ASPECT RATIO. LPPs are probably 1/2 diameter of a 45 case head, where LPP are probably 1/3 or less.
Visually, I can tell 50% from 33% every single time, no matter what it is. So can anyone, if they know when to look for it.
 
I think the kicker would be if the SP -Primer pockets have a 45 degree bevel or have been generously reamed, then the primers Top-hatted or flattened to the size of a LPP on the outside.... I've definitely seen it on some 357 Mag handloads, and I'm sure is very possible in 45 ACP.
 
Slamfire said:
I sort them by caliber, and sort the small pistol primer from the large pistol primer. Small pistol primer brass is positively dangerous on a progressive press. Luckily I have caught them, on a Dillion 550B, because I can feel abnormal resistance, and have not set off a large pistol primer by crushing it on the bottom of a small pistol primer case.

View attachment 1120721

I think this is just a small pistol primer going kaboom in a small pistol primer pocket.

Skylab here we come!

View attachment 1120722


Used to keep an eye out for AMERC brass and toss that, but AMERC has been out of business so long, I have not seen any of that brass in a long time.

Surprising number of people had problems with AMERC

View attachment 1120723

I did not have a blow up, but I had AMERC brass drop their primers before firing, and lots of the stuff had off center flash holes, which was hard on decappers.

If sorting brass by maker makes you feel good, go do it. I cannot tell a difference on paper, and that is true for most Bullseye Pistol Shooters. Though many segregate their brass so they can identify it when it hits the ground.
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There are probably 100:1 ratio of this happening on the Dillon 650 than any other press. This stuff was happening when I looked at the Dillon in the early 80's. The problem was there was no www to spread the news. This is the reason the 650 was pulled and upgraded. I think there replace as needed caught up to them in court.

But with an reloading press if it does not feel right stop and find out why. Nothing ever good comes out when you force something.
 
I sort by hand after depriming and wet cleaning. Since I no longer have a source for rang brass and have several 5gal buckets already sorted and cleaned. Now I don't even load the SP ones, saving those for when I can't recover my brass.
 
Blue68f100 said:
The problem was there was no www to spread the news. This is the reason the 650 was pulled and upgraded.
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Once Internet forums came about I couldn’t see how people were lighting them off, I even crushed primers flat in a bench vise. Then one day I was over at a friends house getting one of his presses back up and running and we were getting closer to the match we were headed to and he went to load on another machine. Already frustrated, he began to have problems with it too and I could tell he was jerking things around. He lit one off and I understood how people did it after that. You can put a lot of pressure on them, to the point of crushing the primer itself, it just can’t be a quick impact.

I still have not but I don’t pound of the handle when seating primers.

The 650 has the most reliable primer feed system out of all of the progressive reloaders, the main complaint was they always feed primers, some could be so lucky. It was also probably the most expensive to make. At least until the mark 7 Revolution press came out, using a similar rotating feed disk setup vs the reciprocating toggles of most other presses.
 
Why to much thought into this.

1.Load that dillon 650 up.
2.install lpp primer punch
3. Install deprime die
4. Run press

You will fell those SP cases as the press won't go into its full range.

It's same concept as the JMorris built machine.
 
sevt_chevelle said:
Why to much thought into this.

1.Load that dillon 650 up.
2.install lpp primer punch
3. Install deprime die
4. Run press

You will fell those SP cases as the press won't go into its full range.

It's same concept as the JMorris built machine.
Click to expand...

I believe that’s what I said I was doing. You may have missed it
 
Yep I see it now, just got lost in the weeds.
And like you, the 750 is not an upgrade over the 650.
Don't treat your 650 like a mentally challenged monkey banging on a hammer and one won't have issues.
 
Nature Boy said:
I agree. Never had a problem with mine and wouldn’t look at a 750 as an “upgrade”.
Click to expand...

Maybe you could start a 16+ page thread on it........................................................................................................................................................................:p
 
SPP vs LPP checked during my hand priming step makes sorting easy.

Flash hole and primer pocket clean must be a visual check anyway, so why not incorporate LPP/SPP there as well?

I guess if you don’t visually check your flash holes and primer pockets clean then I see the issue.
 
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