Brian Williams
Moderator Emeritus
m.pieroni, That 19 is one of the best. I would like to find one for sale but I probably could not afford it then.
Nice piece.
Nice piece.
The K Frame
- Thread starter ugaarguy
- Start date
- Status
Got a couple.
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Mdl 19
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Mdl 10
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Mdl 14
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Mdl 19
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Mdl 19
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Mdl 10
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Mdl 14
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Mdl 19
AStone
Member
I officially joined the K-club today ... well, 1/3 there ...
The dentist gave me a thumbs up/A_OK (no mouth transplant for at least another six months).
So, I buzzed on over to the gun shop and checked out those 65's.
There were 4: 3 with hammer-mounted (hm) firing pin, one with frame mounted (a 65-6).
On all them, I did the standard revolver tests mentioned on the previous page.
Only one of the hm's passed first muster. Two had too much play in the cylinder back to back; significant wiggling in my book. Admittedly, a more knowledgeable person may have said, "It's fine", but I erred on the side of caution.
The third hm that passed had a tight cylinder, but looked like it hadn't been cleaned in several thousand years. In particular, the crud buildup on the front of the cylinder holes from shooting .38's was so thick that it looked like microscopic barnacles
). It was dirty enough that I couldn't really examine the cylinder well, and the breach end of the barrel was similarly dirty, preventing inspection.
Aesthetically, it had some significant scaring. Not merely scratches, but scaring, some of which wouldn't have buff out very easy. The trigger guard in particular looks like someone had taken a file to it in some places and filed down part of it. (Reason unknown.
)
The other one with frame mounted pin - the 65-6 - on the other hand, was clean as a whistle (clearly had been loved and cared for), the cylinder was tight (enough), and the action was smoother and just felt more solid. Not by much, but palpably.
So, I sat and looked at those two for what must've been half hour, handling one, then the other. Repeatedly running down the QC checklist, checking action, handling, handling, right hand, left hand, then switch.
I thought about the consistent recommendations in favor of hm pin that you folks offered over the weekend.
But consistently, the 65-6 said, "Pick me".
So, I did.
I'm now the proud owner of a 65-6.
Well, OK, 1/3 owner. I put a third down on a 60-day layaway.
Guess that means they still own 2/3 of the gun.
I'm expecting my next wave of client payments within a few weeks.
Then, I'll bring that puppy home and show it some love.
________
Hey, anybody want to buy a 686+ 4"? I'll make you a good deal.
(Ad coming in Trading Post within days ...)
And that's just what I did.me_yesterday said:
The dentist gave me a thumbs up/A_OK (no mouth transplant for at least another six months).
So, I buzzed on over to the gun shop and checked out those 65's.
There were 4: 3 with hammer-mounted (hm) firing pin, one with frame mounted (a 65-6).
On all them, I did the standard revolver tests mentioned on the previous page.
Only one of the hm's passed first muster. Two had too much play in the cylinder back to back; significant wiggling in my book. Admittedly, a more knowledgeable person may have said, "It's fine", but I erred on the side of caution.
The third hm that passed had a tight cylinder, but looked like it hadn't been cleaned in several thousand years. In particular, the crud buildup on the front of the cylinder holes from shooting .38's was so thick that it looked like microscopic barnacles
). It was dirty enough that I couldn't really examine the cylinder well, and the breach end of the barrel was similarly dirty, preventing inspection. Aesthetically, it had some significant scaring. Not merely scratches, but scaring, some of which wouldn't have buff out very easy. The trigger guard in particular looks like someone had taken a file to it in some places and filed down part of it. (Reason unknown.
)The other one with frame mounted pin - the 65-6 - on the other hand, was clean as a whistle (clearly had been loved and cared for), the cylinder was tight (enough), and the action was smoother and just felt more solid. Not by much, but palpably.
So, I sat and looked at those two for what must've been half hour, handling one, then the other. Repeatedly running down the QC checklist, checking action, handling, handling, right hand, left hand, then switch.
I thought about the consistent recommendations in favor of hm pin that you folks offered over the weekend.
But consistently, the 65-6 said, "Pick me".
So, I did.
I'm now the proud owner of a 65-6.
Well, OK, 1/3 owner. I put a third down on a 60-day layaway.
Guess that means they still own 2/3 of the gun.
I'm expecting my next wave of client payments within a few weeks.
Then, I'll bring that puppy home and show it some love.
________
Hey, anybody want to buy a 686+ 4"? I'll make you a good deal.
(Ad coming in Trading Post within days ...)
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hexidismal
Member
Nema, cool beans man Glad you got the one you wanted. The way I see it, whether it be a gun or otherwise, if it makes you happy then you got the right one and the price was good.
As to what those file marks were, my guess (without having seen it) would be that someone had attempted a home "bubba" de-horning job. I've seen examples before, particularly on k-frames for some reason.
I would suggest though hanging on to your 686 if you can. I, not being a man of much wealth, do understand all too well that it's not always an option. I also know though that if you let it go, eventually you just may regret it. I can't possibly tell you how many gunny folks I've talked to about lamenting over a good gun they let go of. That being said, if you can't hold on to it or just don't want to .. maybe I'll have to take it off your hands... hehe
Glad you got the one you wanted. The way I see it, whether it be a gun or otherwise, if it makes you happy then you got the right one and the price was good. As to what those file marks were, my guess (without having seen it) would be that someone had attempted a home "bubba" de-horning job. I've seen examples before, particularly on k-frames for some reason.
I would suggest though hanging on to your 686 if you can. I, not being a man of much wealth, do understand all too well that it's not always an option. I also know though that if you let it go, eventually you just may regret it. I can't possibly tell you how many gunny folks I've talked to about lamenting over a good gun they let go of. That being said, if you can't hold on to it or just don't want to .. maybe I'll have to take it off your hands... hehe
XavierBreath
Member
Victory M&P's
XavierBreath
Member
Pre-War M&P's
Model of 1905 4th Change, in .38 special
Model of 1905 4th Change, in .32 WCF (32/20)
Model of 1905 4th Change, in .38 special
Model of 1905 4th Change, in .38 special
Model of 1905 4th Change, in .32 WCF (32/20)
Model of 1905 4th Change, in .38 special
XavierBreath
Member
S&W Model 15-9
AStone
Member
This one's got to have a very, very interesting story ...
XavierBreath
Member
Nema,
Many Victory Models were destroyed by the Federal government as part of the contract with Smith & Wesson. After WWI, so many surplus 1917 revolvers went on the market, that S&W really felt the hurt. In the Victory contract, there was a "no competition clause" to prevent this. Many Victory revolvers were crushed in a steam powered press in three places and sold as scrap. Sellers like Sarco then bought them and resold them as "gunsmith specials".
At one time crushed Victories could be had for under $10 a piece. They usually came with a story involving a tank and blood and gore at gun shows. Some had a few parts, such as grips, thumb piece, lockwork and lanyard rings that could still be used. Some folks made bookends and door knockers, others used them to make grips.
I saved this one in particular, because of the beautiful green parkerizing, and because it is a US Navy example, with the Navy rollmark across the top strap. There are so many faked US Navy Victory Models that I figure I can use this undisputable example as a basis of comparison if I ever find a complete one, so I won't get taken.
Plus, it's a good story.........
Many Victory Models were destroyed by the Federal government as part of the contract with Smith & Wesson. After WWI, so many surplus 1917 revolvers went on the market, that S&W really felt the hurt. In the Victory contract, there was a "no competition clause" to prevent this. Many Victory revolvers were crushed in a steam powered press in three places and sold as scrap. Sellers like Sarco then bought them and resold them as "gunsmith specials".
At one time crushed Victories could be had for under $10 a piece. They usually came with a story involving a tank and blood and gore at gun shows. Some had a few parts, such as grips, thumb piece, lockwork and lanyard rings that could still be used. Some folks made bookends and door knockers, others used them to make grips.
I saved this one in particular, because of the beautiful green parkerizing, and because it is a US Navy example, with the Navy rollmark across the top strap. There are so many faked US Navy Victory Models that I figure I can use this undisputable example as a basis of comparison if I ever find a complete one, so I won't get taken.
Plus, it's a good story.........
AStone
Member
Very interesting story, indeed, XB. Thanks.
I confess, even though I understand SW's plight with all those V models on the market as used at the time, that part hurts my heart and mind.
Piedmont Plinker
Member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2006
- Messages
- 941
This thread has totally convinced me to buy a Model 10 (new production...I know, I know) from Bud's.
It will be a kind of 14th birthday present to myself.
Anybody know a place that has a good deal Ahrends Retro Targets for round-butt K-frames.
I've handled a 66 with targets and liked it.
And rubber+blue(or black, as that is what the new SW blue is, but its cheaper than stainless) is spawn of Satan.
There are no used K-Frames in my area, and I won't order a used gun.
It will be a kind of 14th birthday present to myself.
Anybody know a place that has a good deal Ahrends Retro Targets for round-butt K-frames.
I've handled a 66 with targets and liked it.
And rubber+blue(or black, as that is what the new SW blue is, but its cheaper than stainless) is spawn of Satan.
There are no used K-Frames in my area, and I won't order a used gun.
christcorp
Member
Please, Please, Can I join now???
Finally got the S&W "K" frame I've been looking for. Found a nice Model 13-1 at the gun show today. Really nice condition. Little blueing issue at the end of the barrel, but other that that, it is nice. Old model. Pinned and recessed. Firing pin on hammer. 4" barrel. Packmayer grips. (Which I like better than the originals anyway). Got the vendor down from $425 to $375. Got lucky because I was able to trade my Ruger Blackhawk for $350 from a different vendor. (Much more than I expected). So, I only had to add $25 to the deal. Anyway, let's see if I can figure out how to post a couple of pics. No apologies for the pics. I'm an electronic engineer and computer science engineer. That doesn't mean I know how to use a camera.
Anyway, I am happy that I finally found what I was looking for. Out of the entire gun show, there was only 3 "K" frames in the models I was looking for. 1 model 13 (now mine), 1 model 19 (Too much holster rub and wear). And 1 model 65 (I was concerned that the cylinder was recessed, yet the barrel was NOT pinned. I though S&W stopped recessing counterboring the cylinders prior to stopping pinning the barrel). Didn't really matter. I like blued guns more anyway. I was just shocked to see so few of the model 13,19,65,66 available. Matter of fact, except for a couple of new guns, I didn't even see any of the "L" frame model 586/686 around. S&W is definitely something people hold onto. Anyway. Glad to finally be part of the "K" crowd. Later... Mike...
Finally got the S&W "K" frame I've been looking for. Found a nice Model 13-1 at the gun show today. Really nice condition. Little blueing issue at the end of the barrel, but other that that, it is nice. Old model. Pinned and recessed. Firing pin on hammer. 4" barrel. Packmayer grips. (Which I like better than the originals anyway). Got the vendor down from $425 to $375. Got lucky because I was able to trade my Ruger Blackhawk for $350 from a different vendor. (Much more than I expected). So, I only had to add $25 to the deal. Anyway, let's see if I can figure out how to post a couple of pics. No apologies for the pics. I'm an electronic engineer and computer science engineer. That doesn't mean I know how to use a camera.
Anyway, I am happy that I finally found what I was looking for. Out of the entire gun show, there was only 3 "K" frames in the models I was looking for. 1 model 13 (now mine), 1 model 19 (Too much holster rub and wear). And 1 model 65 (I was concerned that the cylinder was recessed, yet the barrel was NOT pinned. I though S&W stopped recessing counterboring the cylinders prior to stopping pinning the barrel). Didn't really matter. I like blued guns more anyway. I was just shocked to see so few of the model 13,19,65,66 available. Matter of fact, except for a couple of new guns, I didn't even see any of the "L" frame model 586/686 around. S&W is definitely something people hold onto. Anyway. Glad to finally be part of the "K" crowd. Later... Mike...
OP
OP
ugaarguy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2006
- Messages
- 13,828
Christcorp glad to hear you've finally got one of the K Frames you wanted. I've got one of those recessed cylinder, non pinned bbl 65s. I wish it was pinned, but you really can't be picky these days when it comes to 3" K Frames.
To everyone else I thank you for your continued support of the K Frame thread, and continuing to post such wonderful pics.
To everyone else I thank you for your continued support of the K Frame thread, and continuing to post such wonderful pics.
XavierBreath
Member
Check out how close the 1899 K frame is to the DA.44 Topbreak!
XavierBreath
Member
I'm sorry Iggy.........
Tell ya what, here's another Model 10-5 for ya!
Tell ya what, here's another Model 10-5 for ya!
Bellevance
Member
Beautiful 10-5, XB. I have just acquired one myself. I love the model. Do you find you shoot it well without a T-grip?
Bellevance
Bellevance
XavierBreath
Member
I have some pretty big hands. I shoot a K frame best with a Hogue Monogrip. Most of my revolvers that get heavy use wear a Monogrip, either rubber or wood. It's like the thing was made for me. Note the Heritage Model 15-9 previously posted, and the K-38 below.
I find a Tyler T (and other adapters) to be a bit too wiggly for my taste on a "serious" gun. Thus, they adorn some of the ones that get moderate use. Other's I just have not gone so far as to bolt on a Tyler T.
All in all, I shoot OK with stock grips, the Monogrip just allows me to find my firing grip quicker. Does that make sense?
I find a Tyler T (and other adapters) to be a bit too wiggly for my taste on a "serious" gun. Thus, they adorn some of the ones that get moderate use. Other's I just have not gone so far as to bolt on a Tyler T.
All in all, I shoot OK with stock grips, the Monogrip just allows me to find my firing grip quicker. Does that make sense?
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