The K Frame

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PS: I just called back to double check the price.
(I was so astounded when he told me they had a 3" 65
that I wasn't listening well ... I just entered an alternate reality for a moment ... )

"Yep, $395. It's in really good condition. It was a guard trade in ... meaning a prison guard owned it."

Yep, I'll be going to look at it tomorrow.

Would love to take some good advice with me ... and hopefully a level head ...
 
I'd at least check it out, though very thoroughly, in a hurry.
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And I'm guessing you'd recommend reading Jim March's sticky thread about Revolver Checkout ... will read it (again) tonight before going tomorrow.

Anything in particular about a 65 that I should know about, to double check and/or inquire about?

Thx.
 
I'm not sure that it's possible to give any better advice than the sticky thread of Jim March's "revolver checkout", that you're probably already familier with. http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430
I pretty much live by that on a revolver purchase.

It could be argued that the price might be slightly high, but not by enough that I would let it stop me from getting a gun I really wanted. If it turns out good, offer the shop $375, and work from there.

EDIT: HA !, you got that in before I was able to finish typing just that.
 
It's $395 for a 3" M65. If it passes the checkout buy it Nem. If you don't like it after living with it for a few weeks you could easily sell it and lose little to no money. It's a very low risk purchase given the desireability of that particular weapon.
 
After reading Jim March's great instructions,
using my 686 as a test case,
I "get it". The set of tests is very understandable.

The only one I still have some reservations about,
which - as fate would have it, seems the most important -
is #5: timing.

Timing

5) You really, REALLY want an unloaded gun for this one. This is where the light comes in. With the gun STILL held in full lockup, trigger back after lowering the hammer by thumb, you want to shine a light right into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. You then look down the barrel . You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup for each cylinder before lighting it up.

You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of both bores. And with no rounds present, it's generally easy to get some light in past where the rims would be.
Click to expand...
"You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup for each cylinder before lighting it up. You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of both bores."

I'm using a very bright 8 LED light to illuminate from the cylinder end. It's almost too bright, because I can't really distinguish "cylinder" from "barrel" holes. But it looks like the firing pin is dead center.

Not sure how to resolve this ...

{added by edit} PS: Uga, thanks for the recommendation. Sounds like good advice.

I think a lot is going to depend on how it fits and feels.

I suspect I'll know within 30 sec or less after picking it up (assuming it passes tests ...)
 
:D OOOHRAH! This is a GREAT thread!! Twenty-seven years ago, I thought that my issued, M15 was a waste of good steel. It took a while, but I know better now. A Model (3)17-6 replaced a malfunctioning target pistol. Tired of chasing brass, a Model 66-6 keeps me proficient (cheaply) using Specials ---- +Ps for social occasions. More recently, I stumbled upon a Model 67 (no suffix) {stainless version of the Model 15} to complete this little circle. I've learned how to tune/slick these things and they are a constant joy. It's too bad that Smith is now run by lawyers who ruin good products with "idiot-proof" springs and useless locks. :( I'm just glad that plenty of old stuff is out there on the market! If I ever figure out how to attach photos, I'll show you my "kids".
 
It could be argued that the price might be slightly high, but not by enough that I would let it stop me from getting a gun I really wanted. If it turns out good, offer the shop $375, and work from there.
Click to expand...

Hexidismal--

A year ago I would agree with you, but I haven't seen a good 3" 65 (let alone 66 or 19) for sale for less than $400 on the internet in that long (except for the 19-3 P&R that I just got for $360 shipped!)
 
Well, I went and looked at that 3" model 65 today.

Nice condition. Clearly used, but not abused by any stretch:
a few minor scratches that look like they'd polish out pretty easily.

It passed the Jim March "revolver evaluation" test with flying colors: cylinder gap is noticeably smaller than my new 686 (eyeballing); cylinder is tight with no measurable front-back or spin movement; cylinder/barrel alignment looked good (as far as I could tell; that's the toughest part of the test for me); bore and cylinder holes are clean with no pitting; hammer is solid. Action is smooth; no grit feeling.

Equally important, it felt good. Fits my hand. Nice balance, significantly and noticeably lighter and less barrel heavy than my 4" 686, thus faster pointing, yet more substantive than the model 60 (which I just couldn't warm up to when compared side by side with the 65).

Feels like a better big brother for my 642 than a 60,
and a better woods carry gun than a 686+ (probably 6 oz lighter).

$395.

I went to have lunch and think it over, where I decided "yes", so I went back to put it on layaway.
Alas, I got there too late, just as they were locking the door. (I forgot they close at 5 on Saturdays.)

Manager said, "I'll put it back for you; come back on Monday and we'll take care of things."

Fine with me. Will give me another couple of days to mull this over. Plus, I've got a dentist appointment at 2 on Monday. Assuming he doesn't tell me I need a mouth transplant, or something, I'll probably go put 1/3 down on that 65. Then, I'll put a 4" 686+ up for sale. (Heads up; I'm going to be offering a nice deal on a virtually new 686 ... stay tuned for details ...)

I'm still open to advice until then ... ;)

Now, let's see: this IS the K-frame club. I wonder what advice I'll get. :rolleyes: :D
 
Now, let's see: this IS the K-frame club. I wonder what advice I'll get.
Click to expand...

I really like the 125 grain Remington Golden Saber load in my 3" carry gun. It's listed as having pretty mild ballistics, but out of the short barrel it isn't really much different from the "full power" loads, and it's not nearly as boisterous.
 
Firing pin on hammer of model 65?

PS: almost forgot to ask this.

The shop actually has 4 model 65 3", but three (all but the one I've got dibs on) have the firing pin ON the hammer. Earlier model, says the manager.

Any opinions on those? Gut level says to go with the newer one without the firing pin on the hammer, but I'm open to opinions.

(I didn't ask about the prices of the others ...)
 
Hmmm. That's interesting, Rick.

Could you offer me some insight into why?
(Not doubting your call, just trying to understand it ...)
 
I prefer the firing pin to be on the hammer too.
If it breaks, and it is on the hammer, it is an easy replacement.
If it breaks and is frame mounted, it ain't.

SWMPPreModel10.gif
Smith & Wesson Pre-Model 10 M&P
 
Nem, in addition to what XB has already said here's a bit more on hammer mounted firing pin S&Ws. Hammer mounted pin means it's got forged / machined internals rather than MIM. The of merits and demerits of each manufacturing process are for another thread. However, more than nostalgia, these machined internals were hand fitted. That hand fitting applies to the whole gun (particularly P&R guns). In short it's a visible manifestation that the gun is an older S&W, an example the craftsmanship that established S&W is the revolver against which all others are judged.

Go for a hammer mounted firing pin model if one passes the check out. If a pinned bbl model is available and it passes the check out go for it: This will be the oldest and likely most well built of the group.
 
In a nutshell, the others have already covered the reasons why I prefer the hammer-mounted version, with one exception: I prefer the way it looks, too.

I would also dispute UGA's comment about the pinned gun being better, but only to advocate against blanket judgements: Those P&R guns from the end of the line (circa 1982) were hardly paragons of quality. Don't get me wrong. I will never give up my 5-screw .357 Magnums. But the 27-2 I have from the late 70s is not nearly the gun my 27-5 is. The models from the early 90s, pre-MIM, were probably the best USER models made by S&W. The have the most up-to-date metallurgy and precision machining (CNC vice mill and hand-fit) and while they sort of clunk rather than click when you cycle them, they are much more durable than their predecessors.

Rick
 
Wow. Choices are never easy, are they?

Guess I'm gonna have to go with a gut-level judgment on this one ... :scrutiny:

Kinda like point shooting with a model 65 3".
 
One little thing I'll add about the hammer mounted pin which I haven't seen mentioned is its possible future desirability and therefore its value. As the guns with the hammer mounted pins are no longer manufactured, eventually they will become difficult to find in retail. And in much the same way that there are now prices rising quickly on certain mil-surps, previously seemingly unlimited, the value of the gun may rise.
 
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